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Mikelly

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Everything posted by Mikelly

  1. That's all fine and good for those who have access to the tooling to "make their own"... But the next question will be "Dude can you make me a set?" For the record, I'm not asking. Nice parts though. Mike
  2. Not a "ton" of Z31 members here. I don't think you'll get a ton of replies... Mike
  3. Soooo I'm pretty burned out at the "customer" site, so tomorrow I'm taking a snow day. I have to do a meeting up north in the AM and then I'm going to get the electricals in a state of "power up" mode. hopefully with minimal fanfare. Hope this weekend goes smoothly... Mike
  4. Soooo I'm pretty burned out at the "customer" site, so tomorrow I'm taking a snow day. I have to do a meeting up north in the AM and then I'm going to get the electricals in a state of "power up" mode. hopefully with minimal fanfare. Hope this weekend goes smoothly... Mike
  5. Sorry man, wasn't tracking while at work... Kinda read it and didn't make the connection. Second time around is the ticket... Mike
  6. I've got D-port heads and the LSx are round. Not gonna work. On top of that, the LSx header angle won't work on the traditional early gen motor. Had a Vette before with LG headers which are similar, and I currently have an LSx motor waiting in the wings when this one blows. Mike
  7. I've officially run out of things to Solder... It's a damned good thing, since I've officially run out of solder. Tomorrow, I'll pull the wiper cowl and remove the wiper motor/assembly/arm and install the exterior kill switch. Then it's down to re-installing the accusump and then the dash. Mike
  8. Let's not start deleting a bunch of pics gang! I rather like that one in specific... Mike
  9. Back on track... Today I was able to pull the accusump, drain and clean it, and then swap in the ECV unit. I've also gotten the wiring sorted for it, the connection between the brake switch and the fuse box, and the brake switch and the wiring from the lights to the brake switch, along with the wiring for the XFi brain,the final lug on the master switch, and cleaned up the shop from about 800 bits of tape, wire trimmings, loom and excess "junk". Tomorrow I need to pull the wiper cowl and remove the wiper motor, install the external power switch in the wiper arm port, and then wire that all up. Really needed to have an external on/off for safety. Still need to wrap up a couple more wire connections before re-installing the dash, but it won't be long before I'm starting the hard work of "troubleshooting"! certainly by the weekend! Mike
  10. OK Enough of the "on vacation" stuff... Back to it tomorrow evening... Hope to wrap up the wiring this week and get power back into the cockpit and all displays working! Until then... Mike
  11. Luigi, I had the c33s and they hung to low on the car. Tedder, I like that idea of the twin branch splits! JNJ, I will take you guys up on the offer. What is your brothers user name here? Mike
  12. There are some great reasons to avoid center lock wheels. The wrench required to torque them down will set you back $500, and the hardware and hubs will set you back a lot more than that. I own a Porsche GT3, and when I was looking for newer models ( mine is an 04) I found that most guys were trying to stay away from center locks due to the cost and complexity. Other than the cool factor, you will probably be set back a bunch of cash because Centerlock hubs are going to be very expensive to have fabricated for the s30 platform! Think $10k with wheels and all associated hardware, and possibly more due to changes in the brake department that will surely be required. Edit: I launched your adapter link, and I stick with my comments above. Doing the adapter creates yet another failure point. $1600 is a lot to look cool. Good luck! Mike
  13. Thanks for the encouragement Matt! Won't get much more done this weekend. We took the GT3 down to Chetola Resort in Blowing Rock, NC. And won't be home till sunday. When I return, I need to make three more connections and instal the new ECV on the accusump, and then start installing the dash. Then the tuning will begin! Mike
  14. I don't know the answer to this one. Michael is correct from a totally pragmatic point of view. That said, the Mustang SV0 stuff is pretty cheap if you can swing the swap to five lug, which included a commitment to new wheels. I'd put the Mustang stuff up against anything heavier duty. Mike
  15. Ron, I'm considering it, seriously... But if someone else has cracked the nut on this one with an off the shelf Tri-Y or something else, I'd like to investigate that first! Mike
  16. Guys, I'm trying to decide on a header solution besides the block huggers I have. I've tried the Sanderson setup some previously used, but for a road race application the ground clearance was simply to little... What options are you guys/gals using for your ROADRACE type applications? Doing a search really isn't getting a lot of helpfull info and I know there has to be an updated amount of info from those using these cars for track days and autoX. Mike
  17. Went down and soldered a few more connections this AM... I've got the starter circuit to the dash complete, fan and fuel pump, fuel sender all done. Made all the connections back up for the FAST EFI. Still need to wrap up the 3 wires on the fuel pressure sender, the fuel temp sender, and the tach. All those integrate into the dash. Very pleased with how this turned out: Mike
  18. knocking out more of the wiring here and there. I hope to have it at a state of debugging by next weekend. Slow going for sure. Mike
  19. Matt, Plan to attend an event near you this year! There is good reason I'm revising my platform! Stealing that helmet blower idea, BTW!!! Mikw
  20. Brings back memories of squirling away 4 tires, tools, jack and airtank in my Zcar for a trip to road atlanta. Ah youth... Mike
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