stony

oh yea on my last post i think i said my frineds motor was a sr it wasnt its a ca-18... they are a dime a dozen in japan. he took his and did a real good job rebuilding and used all the right parts (strong) and it was really fast. that motor in a Z would be very interesting. You could prabably climb in the engine compartment to work on it ;>

well in my opionion if you have access to this engine for under 3000 (rb-26) it is worth going with the 2.6 the stock eng is good for 600HP with only bolt on stuff. If you can get a good low milage engine upgrade injectors, turbo, EMS, ect and youll will be very happy. the rb motor run very smooth and with a 3inch dia or bigger exhaust are very quite and very strong. Ive been i japan for most of my vehicle modding life so im kinda bias im sure there are combos you can do with a v-8 to get as much power but im not sure. stony

i want these lights anyone know if these are custom or somethinig a joe can buy ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600890530&r=0&t=0

rb-26 is the hardest to do... if you use the jspec z-31 rb-20 engine mounts any rb motor bolts right in.... if you use teh r-33 gtst tranny and front half drive shaft the shaft does not need to be modified....the tranny mounts are the only thing you have to fabricate. now to the specifics. rb-20. --needs the jspec z31 rb-20 oil pan and sump --i dont think this motor will clear the hood with the z-31 mounts rb-25 same as the rb-20 just a bigger dispacement..also has teh same clearence problems. rb-25/26 the most popular and easy / kinda expensive. get and rb-25 block and all the parts above then install all rb-26 internals and externals on this blcok and this is the easiest boltin application but the block is not as strong but will withstand 500+ HP no problem MY SWAP rb-26. i rounded up all the parts mentioned above. the 2.6 block is alot different then the 2.0-2.5. i had to cut an area out of the rb-20 pan and make it bigger to fit the bearing retainers... also had to hammer on teh side of it to get the sump to fit/ this was kinda flaky, i was worried it would leak but it didnt. the most tricky thing was makeing the sump. it had to weave from the front of the block to the rear where the sump is. After i got the oil pan on it was home free from there... made the tranny mounts and everything bolted right in. Mounts.. the z-31 mounts place the motor a little bit too far fwd then i liked. but the height is perfect. bottem of oil pan even with a frame. the engine cold be moved back about and inch or so if your concerned with weight distribution. but then custom mounts shortened shaft are required. My opinion... if your in japan go for it its alittle expensive but well worth it. im running 11.138 1/4 on basically a bone stock engine and stock booste (soon to change ) if your in the states build and v-8 or swap a supra engine. the rb motors are expensive in the states and parts are a pain. unless you have a friend in japan. there is a supra twin turbo 500+ hp 240 on ebay right now for 10500 (steal) if i didnt allready have mine id be pickin that one up if you have any more ????? feel free to email me... allthough ill do anything to help cant get ya any parts as i live in alaska (3more years) I plan on getting back to japan then maybe start up some kind of used part import business ;>. there is stuff selling on ebay for 1000% yes 1000% over what you can get it in japan for... ie gtr twin turbos. i just bought a set off japan yahoo for 31 bucks. they are t-25 turbines and a set sold on ebay last week for 710 bucks!!!! anyways enough ramblin

lucked out and won them on japan jahoo for 38000 yen = less then 300 bucks !!!! 680 CC's my stock ones are 444cc and they are maxed ... i actually saw them read 112% on SDS LED the last time i ran them ;> Im thinking these will solve my lean condition and give me some grunt at the top end ;> I ran them thru one of those HP Calc and they should be good for 600+ hp on an perfect engine of course... ill be happy with 500+ rwhp

well i couldnt resist had to read!!!!! at this point of the project im not too concerned with wieght. eventually i will be purchasing a different set of wheels myself. the auto drags were an ausome deal i couldnt refuse they are the ringht size i need to measure out and install the 9 inch. ill have to weight the Watts and see what they wiegh im thinking they are lighter then that but then again they are not 15 inches wide ;>

z-31 is first gen 300z... vg30 vg20 is teh engine code for the v 3L and 2L motors

hey you can get with scottie on this one ... we have a mutual friend that brought back a sr-20 det silva that was modified with pistons porting ect ect and is extremly fast ... not sure on teh weight of the car but im thinking its a bit heavier then the z and if i remember he has this car in teh low 12s. the axles are what is holding him back ,, they keep breaking. the sr motor is very popular in japan and they make it very strong.

410+ HP to the wheels

now that would be fun ;>

ok heres the deal. the stock GTR oil pan wont work. I got a rb20 oil pan and oil pickup from a z-31 (japan Spec) and modded it. i had to make a custom oil pickup that goes from the front stock pickup to the rear of the engine where the sump was relocated. then the oil pan had to be hammered on to get it to fit around the sump. The way alot of guys do it in japan is the build up a rb-25 with all rb-26 internal and head. the only drawback is the block is not as strong. Yes the rb-26 block is alot different then the rb-25 block. the bottum of the block has alot of extra webbing and it also has holes to bolt 2 different oil pans up. I think someone in nissan was thinking when they biult this engine. It was like they were thinking about putting it in a RWD car only. thats the only thing i could think of for the 2 different oil pan hole patterns. anyways i hope this helps.

isnt the 914 mid engine? thats why.... and bug is rear engine.... It can be done and ive seen it but usually you chuck the pan and build a custom frame with engine in front and radiator in the rear

if your talking the dual overhead cam sr-20 id go that route the single cam (US spec) engine not sure never seen one ;>. RB 20 intake manifold will not fit under the hood of a Z.

Oh by the way moser 35 spline axles were my choice of axles. will be running a full spool with hi 4 or low 5 gearing with a 31 in tire on 15x15 wheels ;> Im thinking this will get me out of the box alot better then the BFG's

scottie running lots of retard due to the stock injectors start to lean out early. not sure on the exact numbers its been a while since i looked at it. once i get the bigger injectors ill be able to mess with timing and booste. the fuel curve was setup with minimal tuning. once the bigger injectors go in gonna run it through the rpm fuel setup with no booste and then setup fuel with booste. I have A/F ratio meter now it should be alot easier.

Lone... agree 100% on everything.... I dont pan on scca or fast driving in the mountains;> all i wanna do is go straight as fast as i can for a 1/4 mile. and not spend a fortune doing it. i want a vertually indestructable rearend that will handle the future build up of the motor. the weight has got to be very close to the same as all the components of the irs setup includeing struts and everything. comparing all the frame work to all the stuff that will be cut out should be pretty close also. thats a good idea. im gonna weigh all components that come out and go in including frame and sheetmetal work and see if i gain or lose. car should get heavier with the cage install though. we will see ;>

scottie im surprised cause i always thought the 280 rated horsepower in the gtr is supposed to be flywheel ( i think ). and to get it up near 500hp with just EMS, intercooler exhaust and open intake is pretty amazing. especially since there is alot more left in it with upping the booste a couple points and adding more fuel dont you think. BTW hows your corvette rear coming. i decided to go with a ford nine inch and gonna try to run 15x15 in the rear. this alone should get me in the 10s

do a search on roll cage in all forums it will give you many results ;>

I'd like to hear opinions on backhalving a Z positive and negative assuming im getting the most traction i can now with the irs, what kind of performance will i see after the backhalve is done. Assumming it is also setup right. will it reduce or add weight to the car. im pretty sure 60 foot time will come down. Im thinking with big meats in the back and a good set of hi 4 or low 5 gearing i could see as much as a 1/2 second improvement in 1/4 times. Am i dreaming???? Oh by the way im running a 3.90 rear gear now. thanks

Well i found a shipping doc and the wieght of my z is 2850 with all fluids and 1/4 tank of gas... input that with my best 1/4 mile time and trap speed in 2 different calculators and they spit this out http://www.4racecars.com/calculators/horsepower_calculator.html Horsepower Results - 1/4 Mile Method Your 260z weighs about 2850 pounds and can complete a 1/4 mile in about 11.138 seconds. That means that you've got about 407.67 HP at the wheels, and about 529.97 HP at the flywheel. http://www.corral.net/tech/horsepower.html The Corral - Horsepower Estimator Your trapspeed was 121 miles per hour and your vehicle weight was 2850 pounds. You are making 402 hp. the gtr is rated at 280 HP stock all bottled up in the GTR. ALL i did was ad an aftermarket intercooler, big exhaust and open air intake on turbos. im running stock booste, stock injectors stock everything does this sound right? 529HP at the flywheel!!!!! i was thinking more like 350 at the wheels.

http://www.peteramor.com.au/ this is the site. youll prabably have to call to get any info ;<

i talked to a guy that took holder front brake calipers and discs. redrilled the rotors for the lug pattern and drilled and tapped new holes in the strut and everything else bolted up. the rotors are the same or even bigger then most racing setups. get this with the exchange the parts were under 400.00 for everything i habve yet to get any answers from the guys he said to email though ;<

Was just curious if anyone has ever made a driveshaft the stock datsun or in my case nissan skyline tranny to a now import rearend like a ford nine inch. Is it possible????? Drawbacks????? any other opinions? would it be easier to adapt an american tranny ?

Just remember that just because you install flares dosnt mean bigger tires will work. Youll have to either cut or reform teh sheetmetal under the flares so you dont tear up the tires

well thanks to the 2000 dollar paint job that turned into a 6500 full body/frame restore im into the 20k range im sure i bought the car in japan fro 2500 i bought my entire drivetrain intercooler to r-200LSD in japan for 4500. sds 1300, wheels 500, tires bfg DR 200.(EBAY) chromoly lower control arms 1200, coilover conversion 200, shocks 240, springs 360, aluminum radiator 350, custom exhaust and intercooler pipe welding labor and parts (includes kakimoto exhaust that was motified and rb-26 downpipe)1500, fuel pump 80.00, steel braided line 200.00, misc gages 600.00 ( tach, egt, afr x2, booste) hmmm well thats over 20 k there and my interior is still bare. i still need seats , i have a ford nine inch to install and full rollcage to buy and all the other goodies to go with that. im gonna buy a welder to save on some labor there and do as much as i can in my garage. maybe someday it will be done and hopefully still be married the car has run 11.138 @ 121 mph with lots of wheelspin in first and second. I believe its is capable of a hi 10 sec pass with a few adjustments but ill never know the next time it hits the track again will be with the nine inch installed and a full cage, bigger injectors and a little more booste. take away that damn paint job and that a pretty fast car for under 15 K and on top of that all the parts are stock parts from other cars ;> which makes it very reliable. i dont plan on doing any engine or tranny work till back in japan....thats when the fun begins ;>