Gollum

I believe the 350Z has a carbon fiber driveshaft from factory. IIRC they said they did it for dampening vibrations and also the fact that it crushes in an accident, and the fact it's lighter than steel or aluminium was an added bonus. Makes me wonder if getting a 350z shaft and having it modified would be doable/smart.

They shouldn't, but parts wear down ya know. 1000+ drag launches takes it's toll on parts. Even just hard and quick shifting in spirited driving can have a dramtic effect on the life of u-joints and cv joints.

Problaby even have enough room for a cosmo 3 rotor, but those are pretty damn expensive. What are your plans for the rear of the car? Just cut out the entire back and start fresh? What suspension/diff donors are you looking into?

So what you're saying is there's no local store that sells black anodized bolts. I agree though. I wouldn't want to deal with the paint flaking every time I needed to take it off.

Didn't someone on here just recently get a few CV shafts for the 88' LSD? I can't remeber who it was, I think it was one of the RB26 guys, though I might be crazy. He posted one on ebay iirc. Though I agree the rarity does become a problem for those replacement parts.

I only worked 3 months, and I got $750 back. I'm not getting the extra money for the economy stimulus because I was claimed by my mom. Ouch. Well, it was gonna cost her around 1k to not claim me. (she's a tax preparer/book keeper) Guess where my money went. I got my money about 3-4 weeks ago. Check signature...

I think it looks pretty sweet. I also like the factory lines to a point, and I also don't like lowering cars much for looks and functionality (i'm sure most here understand). So you kinda have to install some type of skirt if you want to limit the air going under the car from the side. Your solution is cheap and looks great imo. If you painted the rivets/screws black it'd be even harder to see it. Job well done.

I don't have any other threads going about this car, so I'll post the new info here. There had been a clicking that I thought was the turbo, and would only show up when I was going hard on the car and had gotten it plenty warm. Usually started around 4k or so and didn't sound good. Because of it I tried to go easy on the car. It was also stumbling a little here and there. At idle it would wander a bit and you could feel the inconsistant fires, though which ever cylinder it was it wasn't completely gone, that's for sure. I pulled injector plugs one by one and all of them were indeed firing to some extent, and that also helped me find my exhaust leak (cylinder 4). Today before leaving to get lunch I loosened the distributor to see where the timing had been set. It was all the way clockwise, and I can't remeber if that's advanced or retarded off the top of my head. So I start the engine and gradually move it clockwise to find the stumbling point at idle, and it needed to be I'd guess 85-90% towards full clockwise lock, seems normal. going to the other side it wouldn't start to stumble until I got it to 95+% counter clockwise, which is near where it'd been set. So I set it "in the middle" between these points biased counter clockwise by about 5 degrees or so. I didn't have a timing light, and since that's closer to where it'd been that should be "safe" for now. Tightened it up and drove to lunch. . . . . Instantaneous difference. Before I could tell the engine didn't want to rev freely, and now it's reving very easily, boost is comming on sooner, and it's pulling WAY harder. The clicking seems to be gone as well, makes me think it was detonation and makes me hope the engine didn't suffer too much. So it seems the engine is happy now. Time to focus of the other two obvious mechanical problems: 1. Clunking when I shift hard 2. Extremely stiff rear left shock that almost feels frozen I've put around $75 into this car tops (that includes new injectors) and I'm positive I could already turn around and sell this car for a decent profit. She's being a good girl.

Have you BEEN to the richmond BART? You'd understand. Even people like me who grew up in richmond just go to the del norte station. Still sounds like a sweet project. My only grip is the CRX is an extremely short wheel base and might be hard to control if not setup well. I think the F20C would fit as long as you get the engine as far back as posible (probably have to fab a new trans tunnel) and cut out the radiator support and installed a new one putting the radiator a little farther forward. Do you have dimensions for the F20C? I want to go measure my CRX's engine bay now...

88' manual is availble on carfiche right now, i'm downloading it. There should be a way to tell by the VIN, like how you can tell a S130 GL by the VIN. If it's 100% stock, and the AC/power steering need work like you're saying, I'd say $2,500 is a fair price. Possibly a slightly better deal for the buyer than the seller. Regular turbo cars are a dime o' dozen around here, the later 87-89 turbo cars though hard to find, don't tend to sell for that much more. It mostly comes down to condition from what I've seen. For some reason a ton of VG motor cars seem to have issues with the AC pump freezing. At least in my first hand experience, not trying to make a generalization about all of them. Shouldn't be too hard to fix though. EDIT: Doesn't like like there's a way to tell via the VIN, though here's the zhome page on them to give you more insight as to what to look for. http://www.zhome.com/History/SSZ.htm BTW, I'd personally prefer the clutch LSD, and I think many here would agree. Take that for what it's worth though. $.02

Well if you're in a hurry, $100 isn't a terrible offer. I'm thinking I need to wait till I get my engine running a little bit better before fixing my turbo issues (if there are any), and I think I'm gonna go with a stock replacement. I simply know that if I buy a nice HY34 or T3/T4 then I'll end up with a case of the "while I'm at it's" installing an external waste gate, BOV, and boost controller... Not good. If you want to wait I think I could offer you $150 though. Local yards here charge $90 for a complete turbo, so I'd gladly spend a little more for something guarenteed in new condition. I'm also gonna call some shops about getting my current turbo rebuilt.

I know next to nothing about the transmissions for the vans, but as far as I know all the mod motors use the same bolt patterns on the block, making any of the mustang/cobra transmission options compatible.

Ok, here's the link to the guy who's done it. And I forgot, he's running the DOHC motor, which A: Is all aluminium and B: A bit wider http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112543&highlight=4.6+ford And here's a pic that's quite common, yet hard to find at those times you're looking for it most. Not though that the 5.0 motor is sitting quite a bit lower, and the 4.6 isn't much talled with both motor's oem oil pans and intakes on. It's just the width that's quite different. The mod motor definately has LSx type potential though, just won't see as much NA HP readily availble due to lack of cubic inches. With force induction they hold up quite well.

Ahhh.... umm, please look into how freakin large this thing is as well. I'll find the guy who posted pics of his SOHC install (same exact external dimensions I think). It's extremely tight, and I can't remember how different the S130 engine bay is from the S30. (though now for the first time ever I own both, so I can compare them). Expect to be running into quite a few fitment problems. I'll just get the pics.

It's mostly because of the weight of the vehicle. In a Z that motor would get well over 20 highway I bet. Don't expect a ton of bolt on HP gains. Kenne bell has done hundreds of dynos with press present that prove how little most bolt on mods do for mod motors, it's even worse with the new 3 valve motors. Pretty much ALL aftermarket manifolds are worse than stock for average HP and torque, and give up considerable amount of low and mid range power for a minimal high RPM increase. Though I'm sure if you were running open pipes with a ECU tuned to use premium gas you should be able to get it close to 300hp. Byond that you might as well just supercharge it. If you do that and drop the 4k+ for a kenne bell then you'll be looking at the neighborhood of 400+ wheel hp on the stock longblock. I believe they can get over 450 on mostly stock parts as well.

You talking about the chrome plate that holds the T-top in on the inner edge towards the middle of the car? If so I'd call those anything but rare... I sold a set a long time ago to... I think 80LT1. At any rate I could pick a pair or TWO every week if I wanted to. S130 cars are plentiful around here.

Yea, a running 70' shouldn't sell for $500 unless it's got rust issues. You should be able to get more. I'd say just go see it, and go with your gut, but give it some time for the car to sink in. Don't get it on impulse, really look at all the little details of the car and look for possible headaches you'll be dealing with in the next 6 months, and then also the next 6 years. It all depends on what condition your current Z is in, and which is better. I couldn't say if it was a good idea or not unless I had both cars in front of me to inspect.

I'm gonna guess 382 for the first pull. After that all bets are off till he blows the motor up. I'm sure he'll hit 400 unless he blows something.

If it's the 5.4 then it's not a bad motor, just huge and a tight fit in a Z. Gobs of potential though. These motors (2 valve Mod Motor) are dropping in value and we might see more S30 cars with them yet. If only there was a cheap aluminium block availible...

it's cool, no worries. I took a quick look at it after I got back from getting lunch today. Looks identical. Says Nissna (logo) Motor on it, and right after the motor is a vacuume line. So I'd say you have an OEM 280ZX turbo. I believe my motor is a 82' if that helps. Was this ever running in your posession? I'd just like you to confirm that it hasn't shown any problems before I give you an offer. I'm also still considering finding something else that's drop in and newer. Not sure I wanna just go from OEM to OEM turbo to just get by. "Might as well" upgrade it right?

Well I looked through the classifieds and didn't see it. Strange. Totally forgot to look at my turbo while I was working on the car last night. I'll try my best to remember this time. Argh.

So I got to ask. Will you now be keeping this tool in your car at all times? Glad to see you found a solution.

Tell me about it... My 75' is about as worn and beaten as they get. The car wanders with every ripple in the pavement, jumps at every bump, tires scrub in the right condition, and the road noise is pretty high. I can't afford even eibach's + tokicos right now, so I'm gonna replace all the bushings for now, possibly do the tokicos in a few months. But I can definately say, don't worry about spending a ton of money on "power upgrades", because they simply won't get you anything worth your time. Work of fixing the little issues, then put money into the suspension. By the time you're trough with all that you should know if more than double the stock HP is going to cut it. If not, then you'll want to figure out what engine you want to put in there.

I've done it both ways, and consindering I can get the shroud of in less than 60 seconds it's just something I do to give myself a bit more room to work.

I think mine has a nissan logo on it like that, possibly says nissan on it too. I'm kinda paranoid about my turbo, and have been searching the junkyards for a spare turbo to have on hand. I've got clicking under hard accelleration and I'm not quite sure what it is yet. If it's the turbo I'll be replacing it soon. You can put me on the non-existant list of potential buyers. Though I'm gonna try to verify what it is first.