Gollum

Not much of anything good. There was a 280ZX that was blue one blue with pretty decent interior though.

Yea, +1 for nastyness. Makes my L28ET sound like it's trapped in an elephant's butt.

If nobody jumps on this by 3:30 i'm not going to the yard. If someone posts interest during the weekend I'll go on monday, but there's no guarentee it'll still be there.

I personally feel it's better to route the BOV as a recirc as it will help keep the turbo spooled, then you also don't have to worry about the EFI going rich or anything. Recirculating the air well help keep the engine much more responsive on throttle changes. I think the ONYL reason people ever vent to atmoshpere really is for the sound, either that or they're lazy. I personally HATE the idea of adding a BOV just for the sound as that's as rice as rice gets IMO. But that's just an opinion. Turbo engine's exhaust is quite, and keeps you out of trouble. Why add a cop wistle to the car?

I think the negative feedback was well earned on his part. More people need to be leaving negative feedback on sellers as it makes it MUCH easier to spot problems some sellers have. If he has a history of this it should be known to the buyer so they know the risks involved when they purchase. Sometimes a little customer care goes a long way. If he'd just responded immediately "Oh I'm sorry, we're currently out of stock on that right now and it will take us a week to get our stock resupplied. Would you still like to keep the order?" you could have been refunded and left POSTIVE feedback. But the fact the guy left you in limbo for so long is unacceptable. You did the right thing imo.

Happy Birthday Clive. Hope all is well and goes well.

I think he's showing that port specifically because that's the only one showing those symptoms. Often when a head gasket blows you'll end up with coolant in the chamber, thus intake and exhaust chambers in the head as well. Hence why cars with bad head gaskets normally blow white smoke.

http://zhome.com/History/Zproduction.html

Hey, there's a 83' turbo at the local yard not more than 5 miles from my work. Is anyone interested in them? I think PNP is gonna charge me a good $20 be shock, and they might want to charge me for the springs seperately, so my total might come out to $100 or more. I'd be willing to go and pick them up if anyone was interested in giving me a good deal on them. Can't promise a price until I have them in my hands. They looked fairly new, as they were pretty clean, the rears that is. I'm not sure if the front had koni's as well, I'd have to remove it from the cartridge to find out. So, any buyers? If anyone wants they can PM me their phone number and I can call them once I get a product number for them, then they can find out how good they are. (btw, very little was mechanically left of the car)

Well there is a stock bypass, and some have said it's good to 10PSI... but I'd be very cautious at that point. It's really only designed to handle the 5-7psi that stock delivers. 10PSI is a LOT more air, especially if you have an intercooler like mario talked about. You have to consider how short the stock piping is. If you venture beyond the capability of the stock bypass then the air has NOWHERE to go. It's not hard to put excess pressure on the turbo and start destroying it. I'd also like to know what your A/F ratios were on your dynos. The L28ET goes lean on top almost no matter what, I think it has to do with the stock fuel curve. So don't expect it to hold a 10.5 or 11:1 ratio. Odds are it'll run really rich at the bottom and then lean out. Here's a dyno from bastaad, who was running a MSD fuel pump on a stock motor running 10 PSI. No intercooler, stock pressure regulator, etc. He says after that he tweaked with the timing a bit and go it to 200 RWHP. Not bad for a stock motor. Then he installed an intercooler + BOV and raised to 12 psi Started getting REALLY lean, and I personally thing he could have just raised the fuel pressure with an adjustable regulator, he sprung for a rising rate one (though it really bugs me that most of these units only raise about 1-2 psi of fuel for ever 1 psi of air, when it needs to be more like 5-7psi in most cases). He raised the boost to 14psi but has having boost fall off problems and was only at around 10psi by 6k All dynos were done on dynojets. With nothing but a fuel regulator you can squeeze a lot of power out of these motors. But I think bastaads progress should give people a good idea of what's "safe" and what power levels are expected. I personally thinkg a BOV + intercooler should be one of the first mods, before a boost controller, but others have had some sucess the other way around, so it's just preference.

That's the one I plan on running. Once you factor in time that's cheaper than I could make it for. And a stock L28ET can take 10PSI easy... but the turbo won't like it. A BOV is a MUST. The guy I bought my turbo donor from has quite a bit of experience with L28ET motors and tuning as many factory components as possible (he's on Zcar a lot, not here much though) and he blew a motor at 10PSI because the turbo couldn't take the pressure from not having a BOV. Without an intercooler there just isn't anywhere for the air to go once the throttle closes. Easy way to kill a turbo. If you raise the fuel pressure to make sure you don't go lean it shouldn't detonate. Factory recommended 93 octane at the stock 7psi... I've been running on 87 octane. Just be mindful of your air/fuel ratios and understand how much timing you can run. Beyond 10PSI an intercooler would definately be recommended though. EDIT: I know it seems as though I didn't know you had a BOV, I did. I'm just making sure you understand how vital it is, and to make sure it's opening correctly and funtioning the way it should.

Here's another good read: http://home.att.net/~CapriClubChicago/tips/SmogFaq5.html HC is caused from unburnt fuel, so yes SHO-Z, weak spark can lead to high HC. Get new plugs, don't run a gap too large, run high octane gas, retard the timing (not sure why this works, but you get lower HC this way on almost all cars), and do anything else you can find/think of to get a hotter spark. Or like i said earlier... if you're running rich that'll do it too. Changing your oil might not be a bad idea either.

Here's a good article I just found. I was gonna go on talking about HC and how to reduce it but this article covers it pretty good, while adding in othe good points. http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr1196.htm

Sounds like you're running a bit rich. Forget swapping the cab back, forget retuning the thing. Spend the money on getting a CAT put in, and have a test pipe made to replace it when you're "off road....". I have no clue how the AZ smog test is done, but if you know an operator that's helping you pass, then having a simple fuel pressure regulator can be a huge help on getting the car to pass. Unhook the O2 so the ECU doesn't enter close loop, then use the fuel pressure to control mixture at the RPM you have to hold for the smog test. Also make sure the engine is HOT when you test. I'd recommend taking it on some HARD driving before testing. High temps will cause higher NOx, but I don't think they test for that in AZ do they? And if they do NOx tends to be an easier gas to pass on unless you have tons of carbon buildup. Then simply put everything back to how it was when you're done. Don't sell it because of smog. Be happy you're in a state you even have hope to get a V8 Z smogged at all. If it passed before you can get it to pass again.

Ron, I can take your critisism, no worries. If anything I look forward to it. I'm not looking to pull air from the intake from the exhaust, I'm just wondering what it would take to replicated the design of a well made exhaust system on an ordinary one. Basically, can we acheive good scavenging at all RPM under un-ideal situations? Maybe I'll drop the whole idea, but it'd still be a fun experiment to do. Rig up a 7k+ CFM fan to a tail pipe and compare the dyno results. Even better if it's a restrictive 100% OEM exhaust system.

Over your head? Depends on your skills. Can you weld. Basic mechanic skills? Think you can handle the modifications needed to the fuel system, throttle linkages, and the likes? If it's going to be a race only drag car, you might want to tub the rear and put in a live axle, like a ford 9" rear end. There's guys that do wheel stands on stock nissan R200 diffs, so they're durable, they just might not get you off the line as quick as a solid rear axle. So it all depends on what you want out of the car and what you're capable of. The 460 should fit though, might need to either modify some headers or have custom ones made though, as many people have issues with a lot of V8 swaps and headers clearing. I'm curious though... where did this 460 come from that it has 500HP? Seems like WAY more than it ever came with from factory, so what's been done to it?

Maybe, but the cars you build are...

I'd thought about that, and it would be one take one wicked header to do that. Could definitely be done. Well I was actually looking at radiator fans yesterday. Many of the 14 and 16inch variety flow well over 2kCFM, and some over 3k. Those aren't very big and they're light to. The downside is that almost all of them are made out of plastic and I have a feeling they'd just melt in this application. Though maybe I'm wrong. Maybe exhaust temps would go WAY down and I wouldn't have to worry about the exhaust being any hotter than say the coolant. In that case a radiator fan WOULD work. Yesterday while I was browsing through fan catalogs it seems as though it would be best to go with a fan over 12 inches in diameter. Reason being is that you gain a LOT of airflow per inch the larger you go, so an array of 4 to 8 inch fans just wouldn't really get the required flow that easily. You'd need like 10+ 4inch fans on the back of the car, or just use a single 14 inch. Also, by the looks of it "blower" fans, like the ones used for AC and heat systems in cars seem to generate much more flow for their size. It be harder to adapt into an exhaust system, and harder to vent out, but the size/CFM ratio might be worth it. I'm seriously thinking I want to build a test rig I can adapt onto cars being dyno'ed to at least see what would happen. I could probably use larger than needed fan to exaggerate the test to see what's possible, then try to find out what's realistic.

Ok, did some quick number crunching. In order to DOUBLE the air volume via heat you'd need a heat jump from about 0 degrees F to about 500 degrees F, which I doubt many engines at street HP levels could do. At the header maybe, at the exhaust tip... not so sure. So if you take say, a 5.0 liter engine, convert it to cubic feet, and at 7000 rpm it's producing 618 cubic feet of air. Now it'd be an overly cautious generalization to assume double that for heat expansion, so now that's 1232 cubic feet at redline. If there's a power adder or ram air that changes the numbers dramtically though. I don't think creating 2000CFM worth of flow would be that hard though, and would be more than enough for most engines. I'd just like to clarify at this point that I understand a well designed header won't restrict power too much and will give you good scavenging effects in the right RPM range, but what if for 10-25 pounds added to the car you could have ideal scavenging at ALL rpm? wouldn't that be worth it? It might even help drivability on engines with wild cams, but that's just a guess. I don't know NEARLY enough about cam dynamics to assume anything like that.

Well it's an interesting piece that I'm curious about, because it doesn't look like any of the nissan shifters I've seen. I like that they're not actually advertising it as a true short throw, and mention it being "shorter" and thus "shorter throw" but by no means is it going to be decresing the amount of angle the shifter must change, just the distance. In my mind I simply don't think it's possible to achieve a shorter shift angle by modifying the shifter ALONE. Modification must be done on the transmission as well. I'll make up some MS drawing to demonstrate. Give me 10-15 minutes. EDIT: Sorry, work picked up. Can't make a picture right now. The basics: If you lower the contact point it quickly starts to interfere with the shifting performance of the transmission. If you raise the pivot point and keep the contact in the same location you'll gain more throw beneith the pivot point without causing problems with shifting.

Shorts shifters for the nissan trannies has been discussed in length. The final realization is that the only way to TRULY reduce the actual ANGLE of the shift is to raise the pivot point, so you'd need to modify the mounting point for the shifter, probably needing to weld new tabs to mount from, and then extending the piece from the mount downwards to make up for the lost length (could be gained by starting with a truck shifter, which is longer on the bottom portion).

Well yea, that's easy... But me and you both know that static CFM will be vastly different from what the engine actually pumps at various throttle and RPM variations. That's what I'm not so keep on calculating, but I'm sure I can figure it out. But if someone knew off hand... Yea I've thought about that. I guess it really depends on how much gain could be seen. I'm trying to figure out how to even calculate how much gain cuold be seen at various vacuums, but have no clue how to even go about that without using software to create a simulation. I don't have a whole lot of hope for this idea, but it's still fun to think about. EDIT: At 8000RPM a 2.8 liter engine should only be displacing 395.5242672 cubic feet... That's not that much. Granted we have to figure in expansion of gases, I don't see it being that hard... A shop fan as used for dynos is around 7000CFM, and is about 1/4-1/2 HP, so I can't imagine it taking that much power to create an array of aluminium fans to push around 2000CFM, which should be plenty of flow to keep the exhaust at a slight vacuum, or close to ambient. Time to look up gas expansions... (off to google)

True, but aren't superchargers and turbos basically air pullers? Anyone actually know how much CFM a given engine is putting out at WOT? looknig into it I don't think it would be too hard to make an array of fans pumping upwards of 10k CFM. The hardest part I think would be finding fans rated at the temperatures they'd be subjected to. The geek in me wants to buy this: http://www.toolexperts.com/airflow-measurement/anemometers-and-cfm-measurement/mannix-deluxe-air-flow-meter-wdcfm8951/wdcfm.html

Yes it IS a lot of air... But what would it take? If a turbo can double an engine's HP, surely a simlar device to pull air from the engine's exhaust instead of ambient air shouldn't take more power than the engine's creating, right? EDIT: I was just punching some numbers on an online convertor, and it said 2500 liters would be 88 cubic feet... that can't be right. If that's the case it shuold only take about 300CFM for a well maxed out 2.8 liter engine. I'm expecting to need a vacuum/fan that can move more like 3000+CFM

Just thought of this, while sitting on the crapper no less... Ok, so pretty much almost all internal combusion engines are air pumps. We use turbos and superchargers to FORCE air into them so they can pump more air, effectively making more power. Pumpings lots of air is a good thing. But in nearly all situations there's POSITIVE pressure in the exhaust system, meaning you're not getting ALL the exhaust out of the chamber before the valves close. Would it be possible to rig some sort of electric or gasoline powered fan/turbine to the exhaust to force air out, possible creating a mild vacuum? Has it been tried? How long ago? How did they do it? What was thier success. I can't imagine it being a HUGE improvement on power, as we can have open headers with not a huge power increase, but I'd imagine it could get you extra power in the lower RPM range, similar but better to the effects of exhaust scavenging. But the hard part in my head seems to be "how do you design a turbine that will pull enough air to not be a restriction at full throttle"? And how on earth to power it? Using gasoline might work, but how do you rig it? You could use an electric motor, but where's the power going to come from. For some reason I have doubts even an oversized alternator would generate enough power. What do you guys think. A pipe dream, or a possible idea?