Gollum

Just thinking about all the posts talking about hoods bulging... I think as long as you havn't blocked off most of the front end and done of bunch of sealing up there you should have plenty of flow. On new cars I'm not so certain. I agree it seems like a good idea, but it also seems as though the follow through isn't that spectacular. As stated earlier, strait fins would cause much less drag in areas like the oil pan, diff, and transmission, and those fins aren't NEARLY compact enough to be very efficiant. They should also be taking advantage of a copper heat pipe if they want REAL heat transfer. Just do some research into CPU cooling, it's been one of the leading markets of cooling fins for several years now, as hardware manufatures are starting to truly reach limits of the early CPU materials, forcing companies to find new, more effient materials to make computer chips with. Seems like most manufatures tend to be using heatsinks that look like what the hardcore overclockers were using 1-2 years ago, that's how fast it advances, and that's how demanding the cooling situations are. Those heat sinks look like they're from the old pentium 3 days. They needs a thin layer of copper on the mating surface, with a copper pipe distributing the heat to the rest of the aluminium. Now THAT will pull some heat off. I also don't think they should be making these flexible sheets, but solid sheets of varius sizes. Then MAYBE make a flexible sheet for piping, but I'd sooner suggest some fixed circumference sizes so people could order them for 2.5" 3" or other common pipe sizes. A fixed block will mean much more heat transfer and more effient cooling effects. With them flexible they're basically operating as singular heat sinks, meaning there's almost no "fin" at all, just a spike.... That's not going to cool very well. The fins needs to be much finer and packed in there. Thinner fins mean MUCH more surface area to go through the air while keeping a minimum contact patch. Thinner fins also transfer heat easier from the core. But if you think about it.... In cases involving liquid, it's probably better to spend the money on a cooler. Even a basic oil cooler mounted in a place air doesn't get to much like in the transmission tunnel will probably have a much greater impact on gearbox temps than sticking a bunch of fins to it. Plus then you don't have to worry about the drag increase, and can also increase the fluid quantity, bringing temps down further. It might have possabilities for intercooler piping, but i'm skeptical.

Ahh, you're right, I DID find the pictures of Darius's car with the redone body though... Not that different. Explains the confusion. Here's darius's car. EDIT: The really funny thing is that I KNOW I'd seen this car perviously, and I don't think at that time I'd made that same mistake... woops.

Ok, I thought this was darius' car. Is usename "Darius" real name Jay Hitchcock? Call me ignorant, I thought his name was just "darius". Once upon a time he had a ton of info about the car on his site, darius240z.com, but I'm not seeing anything on there anymore. The car domain site isn't bad though. Wish he had some cars from before the massive body work.

With that motor pushing less than 1hp per cubic inch, or even there abouts you shouldn't have to worry too much about ping destroying the engine. Engine destroying ping usually only happens in high HP applications where a mild ping at full load causes compression to go way past tolorence, or when a mildly modified motor is pinging constantly and severely. It's completely normal for a lot of older engines to ping slightly when under load going uphill when completely stock. But you've got the right idea. Put some mid grade in it, and pull that timing back a bit. My only big block ford experience is with the 460, but I think it should be able to handle todays pump gas.

It reminds me of the early prototypes of the air engine, which now look like this:

That valve cover makes me think Mercedes M100 or M117, but I don't think mercedes ever had an intake manifold like that.

Do you know the guy? Nobody said it was, several times. We all know a 600HP L28ET can be done, it's just very uncommon in the states, and most of the high HP L series motors in the USA are well known. But that's a gross generalization, and I understand there will always be exceptions. Again... already been said, and I think we all agree on that around here. Hahahaha, you kidding me? The AE-86 part support is NOTHING like the support of the Z cars in the USA OR Japan. The 86' is still VERY popular for tuning and there's STILL people making aftermarket parts for them, in much more variety and quantity than Z cars. The drift/touge craze is helping them along nicely. I think most of us here would agree that there's plenty of fast L series out there we don't know of. The real question is, how well does he know of hybridZ. How much info did the engine builder get from here, if any? I think any S30 Z car with anything more than 300hp on tap is a monster in disguise. We all seem to agree that he's got some good indications of some good potential, we're just doubting the HP claims because of the AD and the seller's attitude. If big phil sold his car he'd have a mountian of parts listed in the ad and probably a dyno graph to boot. Why doesn't this guy have a dyno? Selling a 8k+ car you can afford to go get the thing dyno'ed. I call BS on his claim because he seems to be hidding some details, or just plain doesn't know anything about cars. Sorry to rip your post apart like that, it just seems you were getting nearly violent in manner when nearly everything you posted we'd all agree with, already knew, or had already been spoken of here.

I used to think the same thing about the P90 head, that it was pretty much the best bet for going turbo charged. I've learned a LOT since then I've now got 2 L28ET engines, and I think once I get my 75' running on megasquirt I'm gonna build up a mild 81-83 NA longblock, so flat top pistons with a P79 head. I'll probably get a mild cam and some good valve springs and leave the rest stock for sake of money. Then when I drop that in that shuold give me a pretty good street motor with good power off boost and good knock resistance.

Anything will fit in a Z. Muwahaha <-- Evil laugh. It's really cool to see a wife that supports her husbands obsession/hobby when it comes to Z cars. My GF doesn't like to ride in my Z, and I don't really blame her. If I was driving a mint 280ZX I'd be kinda upset, those are really a joy to be in, whereas my current Z smells of exhaust and fuel fumes at least mildly all the time, and the road noise is pretty loud, and the exhaust can get a bit loud after a while. But one of her favorite days together recently was when I made my last video out in napa. I think the stoping at a winery she wanted to helped a bit So she doesn't LOVE the Z, but she doesn't really mind it. And before she knwe me she didn't know what a Z car was, and now she's always talking about wanting to buy a Z32, and I've trained her well... she wants a 94-95 t-top, 2 seater, turbo if possible.

Yea, but that's the old SAE gross HP I believe, meaning it'll never make that in real life. When they changed the rating method most vehicles took a good 20% hit on their power ratings. But even at a 20% loss, that's still nearly 370 torque, which is not bad at all.

Last night it hit me, the engine that should go in that car... I new ressurection of the nissan Y engine. Think about it, they could completely redesign it from the ground up and keep it around the origonal 4 liter range, putting it nicely between their current V6 and V8 engines. Not sure they'd ever do it because of the taxes they pay in japan in regards to displacement, and pushrod engines aren't known for high efficiency, but I'm sure the engine would find a market in a lot of their cars in the rest of the world. Can we say 350HP FWD Maxima/Altima? Well, that's just what came to me last night. Seems like the perfect fit. Small aluminium pushrod V8, with nissan's badge on it. EDIT: Did anyone else see the link in that thread to the other guy's project doing a 120Y Datsun concept? First several renditions are really rough, but the last teaser shot posted looks like it's comming together well. http://forums.cgsociety.org/showthread.php?f=43&t=606024&page=1&pp=15

Agreed, but unless you're leaving it stock expect to need a wallet the size of that wagon... Big block ford motors ain't cheap to build. Ask Dr. Hunt, I recall him having some experience building big buck/block ford motors.

:::See quote bellow for previous weight and car/engine specs::: Weighed my car again friday after getting off work. Once again I started by making sure the scale had been zero'd. Drove on, then proceeded to take what little I had in the car out to get a realistic "drag race" weight from the car. Took out my laptop, jacket, car haynes manual, spare tire+rim, jack, jack stands, tire iron, 2 tools sets, and a few other odds and ends. I still have a few tools I left up in the front of the car. Fuel was at about 3/8th on the guage, but I don't think that means much. It said almost a half tank after the 20 minute drive home and then 1/4 next time I started the car up. By my guess it was probably about 3/8th though. Definately bellow half, but not a 1/4 yet. My new stripped weight: 2460 pounds. Waaaay better than I expected. Rudypoochris is going to come by sometime this week I think so we can check the weight of another car (not a Z car) to help verify the scale accuracy. If it's at least close that sure shows how much crap I had in the car before.

I humbly disagree, for one reason... BMW. The Z4 is almost the same exact proportions. They did it. They brought a car of the same overal size to the market with the Z3 and it sold well. The Honda S2000 isn't far off either. I see no reason it couldn't be done, other than fear it wouldn't sell. Nissan needs to brave it and make a car like this 3D model!

oOooOOooo. Sounds good. So... ...when do we get a vid like this of your car aux? I wanna hear that beautiful rotory fartary.

I even have a dremel too... I'm still thinking that with how much headache it is getting those manifolds off and on... I'm just gonna swap my motors. Hardest part will be getting the old motor out of the backyard. I think I'll HAVE to push the car out and pull the motor somewhere I have room to move around. But once that's done the rest will be easy. I'll also need to make sure I have a clean place to store the motor for now too. Then I'll go ahead and work on getting the head bolt situation fixed once it's on a stand. Plus that way I can check on my other turbo. This one is causing quite a bit of smoke and probably needs to be rebuilt anyways. Thanks for the tip though! I'll go buy a carbide dremel bit this week and keep it handy. Gotta love hybridZ advice!

Hmm... I always saw it the other way around... the new evo x looks like it was stealing from the pages from the early GTR prototypes which were around 3 years ago. Back on topic: Though I agree the front end isn't perfect... MAN!!! Though the 350Z is growing on me that's 1000000000 times better. It has MANY key things that tie back to the 240Z, while the 350Z has very VERY little. The rear hips are JUST wide enough for me. Not insanely wide to throw off the origonal lines, but wide enough to give that sexy rear shot that's just HIPS you wanna grab with both hands. And like I said, though the front end isn't perfect, it really does a good job of capturing the feeling of evilness of the origonal 240Z, while keeping it modern looking. Some of the openings can probably be closed up a bit though. Overall that would be an insanely good base to start off from if nissan was selling it. If nissan were truly selling this car, I'd be doing everything within my power to get one. I don't care if it would mean working 3 jobs, I'd do it. As long as.... ...it had a decent motor from factory, minimum of 250hp/250torque. Maybe a turbo...

Even if it's only putting out 400hp... that's still a decent deal with all that it's got. Gotta wonder why he's selling it, and if he's telling the truth he didn't build the motor, which means you KNOW it's going to come with problem to sort out.

It's a gigabyte, can't remeber the model off the top of my head. Nforce 5 north bridge 939 AMD socket onboard gigabit LAN onboard 5.1 sound onboard firewire + usb 2.0 4 DDR 1 slots 4 SATA 1.5 ports That's as much as I can remember. It was hot stuff when I bought it. It replaced my Asus A7V8X (pretty well known mobo of it's day) which I had nothing but problems with. I still have it, and it still runs, but it's got lots of quirks. After having SEVERAL issues with VIA chipsets, and ASUS mobos I'm not sure I'll use either in my own boxes ever again.

Well, I don't have the camera here at work, so I'll upload the pictures I took later. There was a bolt missing, so I picked up a bolt on the way to get a new gasket. Get home and tear it all apart. Feels good working on a L series again. I know what everything is and where everything goes for more than half the motor. Familiarity is nice. I'd hoped that it was simply a missing bolt because the manifold wasn't lining up, which wouldn't be that big of a deal. I'd just bang on the sucker till it fit But no, there was a broken bolt inside. I spend the next 8+ hours running around buying bits and easy outs with NO success. None of my bits wanted to actuall eat through the bolt and progress on saturday was making a possibly 1/8 inch deep pilot hole.... not very good. Start again the next day. Still extremely slow progress. I had a headache and was frustrated so I took off to my parent's place to grab some advice and regroup my thoughts. Went to kragen to get some liquid wrench, and some JB weld if push came to shove.... Well for no explainable reason when I got back the bolt cut like butter. Unfortunately my hole was off center and my head cut like butter too. The boly STILL wasn't comming out, and I was pretty much willing to go farther into the head if I had to in order to get the bolt out. Whil opening up the hole stepping up size after size I got to my largest bit and it snapped in the hole... Suckage. I proceeded to try to drill out the bit, snapping more bits. At this point I was sufficiantly pissed and just put it all back together (man putting a turbo manifold on is a PITA). Got it all back together and running at around 9pm last night. Exhaust tick is still there, nearly identical in sound as before. I'm gonna check the P90A in my ZX and see if it's hydrolic or solid. If it's solid I think I'm just gonna pull that motor and put it in this car. Then I'll be able to put this motor on a stand and buy megasquirt for it and get it running. That way I can just do the megasquirt drop in on a weekend. Main downside is the motor is high mileage, though it seems to run pretty well.

Any news from Dell? Would be nice if they came through for you still. I found my PC's problem this weekend. Bad ram slots. Don't think I'll be able to run dual channel anymore. Oh well. Maybe I should look for a replacement mobo. This one has been good to me this long though. Would be nice to see it plug on.

I was right about to post this thread and then the site stopped respond to me all day.... I broke it. Ok, so I'm thinking that in a month or so I'm gonna buy an intercooler, BOV, and build my own manual boost controller (unless I find one I can get shipped to me for less than $25... maybe $30, just to save me the time). I'd just like some feedback from people's experience, and suggestions from things they learned. I'm posting this in the non-tech section because I though I remembered reading somewhere that pretty much ALL ebay auction threads should go here... so here I am. (feel free to correct me and move it accordingly if needed mods) The engine is a L28ET (stock). I'm not planning on ever going over, let alone near 250wheel HP, more like 200-225 so I don't need a huge intercooler. I know that turbo L motors are going to have pretty high intake temps though, as the turbo is sitting right overtop the intake, so how big do I really need? So here's a piping kit I've been looking at that comes with a BOV. Seems like a decent deal. Should be plenty of piping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-Universal-Alum-Intercooler-Pipe-Piping-Kit-BOV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ018QQitemZ280214726967 The actual intercooler I've been really debating on. Mostly between these two: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-75-CORE-28X9X-2-75-FMIC-INTERCOOLER-S13-SRT-CIVIC-BMW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ018QQitemZ280213768005 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-27X6X2-5-NISSAN-S13-S14-SR20DET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ018QQitemZ280212308821 The total cubic inches of the first is 519.75, the second is 315. (taken by advertized core dimensions) There's a third one I've been looking at but it for the added cost I don't think I like it. Due to where the air is going in and out it looks like it won't be as efficiant as either of the other two designs, but the overal core volume is 784, so it has a much larger core overall. Just not sure it's worth the price jump. Here's that one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTERCOOLER-28x8x3-5-Talon-S13-EVO-Corolla-Golf-Eclipse_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ022QQitemZ350043067512 I know that idealy I'd get an intercooler with both pipes coming to one side, but I can't seem to find any that are nearly as cheap as these, and I don't think I'll notice THAT huge of a different at these near stock HP levels. So any suggestions comments are welcome. Thanks everyone. EDIT: I'll probably go with this boost controller... Honestly, identical to what I was going to build, and probably for about the same price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NXS-MANUAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-GSX-240SX-300ZX-TURBO-WRX_W0QQitemZ250231158100QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250231158100

My dad has a tundra that I've put at least 5k miles on myself. I believe it's an 06'. It's the 4.7 4 full doors and standard bed. I really love that truck. I've driven it long distances without problems. Quite comfortable, not perfect, but good. My dad is paranoid about the transmission, and it does seem to be the worst part of the truck. Sometimes it doesn't like to upshift, and turning OD off and then on again kicks it back up to it's last gear. Other times it kinda does the same thing from 2nd to 3rd around town, kinda odd. It's not like a HUGE problem, but it makes my dad worry about it going out on us. I keep telling him to bring it in since he got the extended warrenty and prepaid maintainence. Least they could do is check on it. I really like our local toyota dealer though. The service rep I've always dealt with has worked on 3 of our toyota cars and is ALWAYS helpful and never once have I felt ripped off in any way. Their prices have been comparable to any of the local shops, and they do much better work. If I didn't like our local toyota dealer I'm not sure I'd buy a newer car from them that they'd be working on. That being said, I think I like the new tundra motor better, and I've never been in a titan and worry I'd love that truck a lot more.

I do a lot of encoding and decoding of audio and video. With how fast things are becomming multicore capable the extra 30-40% in price increase is worth it. HAHAHA. Come to my work. We use dell corporate wide in several states and many of our systems are no older than 2 years. Many of the "newer" ones have a propriety DIGITAL ONLY video card that only has a special output that REQUIRES a dell specific splitter. It's a precision series, which is far less proprietary than the optiplex boxes we have here. I was hired knowing that I could handle some IT work in my spare time here, and it's been rather annoying dealing with these dell boxes. SWEET. Good job, make some noise and see if they bite. It's worth a shot right? Besides, you might still need their free motherboard upgrade. I've never had good experience, or known anyone with good experience buying a used motherboard...

I agree it's not breaking the laws of physics, because that'd be impossible. I think it's HP helps explain some of the speed, but it does NOT explain how a car of it's weight can pull such high cornering speeds. It's AWD system is definately unique, and helping a ton. Agreed. I honestly wonder if the MSRP will ever come down. Luckly for us nissan tends to make vehicles as long as they're selling well. My one worry for those interested in buying one though is that it will be outdated before the MSRP drops, and the market is satesfied. If that happens we might not see them become mildly affordable (for people in that market) for a loooong time. Can you keep us updated? It'd be nice to find a documented case of someone who got one at or near MSRP. Could be a big bargaining chip for those intereste in buying one. Well that could be either the diffence of the dyno type, or the gear used. Your car might have been able to do a pull in 3rd gear, where as this car might have been in 5th (which is an overdrive gear on the GTR I believe).