pjo046

By the way, as to the other alternatives you list grumpyvette, you say that it can be a few other things based on the buyers stupidity. Well, I can outrule a few of them: Using lower octane fuel. The car had enough gas in it so that he wouldn't need to fill it up to get home. Remember, he bought it yesterday, put it on a ferry, and today, he drove probably about an hour or a bit more before it went wrong. As for turning up the boost, I doubt he did that so quick as well. Neither has he changed the ignition timing. Yesterday, when he and I testdrove the car before he bought it, I drove it real hard, and showed him it's potential. And nothing was wrong at all. I have had this car for two years now, and never had any problems. Can't understand why this should happen now.......

I sold it without a warranty. But I don't want to be an *** just because of that. I want to try and help him out. Also, I got a very good price for the car, and I said it was in perfect condition. When the engine breaks down on his trip back home(he lives 9 hours away from me), I feel some responsibility. Wouldn't you?

Hmmm.... Maybe you're onto something there. You see, I sold the car with a non-working tachometer. The buyer was aware of this, and it was ok for him to do the installment of an aftermarket tach. If not, I would have done this before selling the car. By the way, the buyer is a mechanic, so should think he would know not to overrev the engine. but then again, since the tachometer don't work right, he might have. you see, after I installed a Crame Cams Hi-6TRC ignition, the tachometer went dead. I never got around to installing an autometer before I sold the car. BUT, IF it is the headgasket that is gone, and everything else turns out to be ok, what would you recommend? Getting a 2mm metal gasket, or a 2mm non-metal gasket? The metal one handles more, but if something goes wrong then(detonation), it will be the pistons that will take the hit. Someone hinted that it would be better to have a weaker headgasket, so that if detonation should occur, the gasket would blow instead of the pistons. What do you think? I will call the new owner now, and ask more about how it all happened, and if he is sure that he wasn't overreving. If he wasn't, do you still think it could be something other than the headgasket?

Hi! Well, I just sold my 260Z 2+2 Turbo yesterday. Guess what? The new owner called me today, and said that the headgasket had blown..... So I of course assured him that I would take care of it, and pay for a new metal headgasket, and some new bolts or studs. The question is: This is a stock 1974 260Z engine. I guess you then know which head and block is on it? Anyways, what headgasket shall I buy for him to get the best compression for this turbocharged engine? a 1mm gasket or a 2 mm gasket? Also, where do I get a gasket and turbo head bolts cheap? Is it likely that anything else has been damaged? He managed to stop the car quick after it happened. But it was so that coolant came out the exhaust and everything.... Please respond ASAP, as I need to get back to him today, and also order new parts for him today since the delivery will take some time from USA to Norway.

Your car will NOT run rich, if you have removed the coldstart-injector. This is the only thing that adds extra fuel when the engine is not warmed up. And I assume you have removed this one along with the air regulator, AAC and EGR etc.

Sabum, I would go straight for the 2.5 inch pipe. You say there is one big outlet on the Greddy S. This is where the air wents yes. You either leave this open, or attach this to the intake pipe between the airfilter and turbo. And then there are two more small outlet nipples. One coming straight out from the upper part of the BOV right? and the other one coming out from the lower part? The one from the upper part is used to connect to the intake manifold. It is this that makes the BOV opens when there is a big vacuum in the intake. The lower one you either leave open, or you connect this one to the intercooler-piping. The last option is the best one.

Hi again! Well, I'm not trying to argue or anything, but if you read through Corky Bell's Maximum Boost, you'll see what his opinion is on these matters. Should think he knows what he's talking about. He states that it is way better to have the air-filter in front of the radiator than in the engine compartment, and that the outlet for the BOV(Or in your case the VCV) should be as close to the TB as possible, and certainly after the intercooler. And the air moving around in there moves pretty fast, so I don't think you have to shift gears so very slow for the phenomenon I was talking about earlier to happen. You see yourself how fast the compressor surge occur if you don't have a antisurge-device. No matter how fast you shift, you get compressor surge. But, I guess it doesn't matter THAT much about where the outlet for the BOV(VCV) is, or where the airfilter is located, but it DOES matter.

Or better yet, buy ARP studs instead of bolts, as studs are always far superior to bolts in strength!

I am going to renew the wiring in the 240Z. Bare in mind that it will have a 280ZXT engine in it. Also, I will use a Electromotive TEC 3, so I guess that one takes care of all the wiring concerning the fuel injection and timing etc. But I still need wiring for the lights, dash, instruments, alternator etc. Where do they sell this? Not at MSA or datsunrestore.com I know. I guess I should upgrade the fusebox at the same time, as the one that is in the 1970 240's probably isn't the best in the world.... All tips and information is appreciated

What exactly do you mean by messy? So much that it drips oil of them, or is it ok if I clean them twice a year? If they leak a lot I will go for a ventilated catch tank that is not returned to the intake. If it doesn't leak much, I'll use two small filters. So how bad is it, if you could describe it?

LOL 8) bastaad525, okey okey. I just wanted to point that out, as some members might get confused. VinhZXT "I've seen many people installing these expensive aftermarket BOV on their cars and I just don't understand why? I would save that money for other meaningful upgrades. All you really need is that VCV valve if you don't want boost build up in the IC. IMO the aftermarket BOV is made to actually keep boost buildup in the IC and only release it over a certain boost level. That way you won't have boost lag in between shifts." This it not quite true. The BOV is not activated at a certain pressure from before the TB, but it is being pulled open by the vacuum that is created from the intake when the throttle is shut. Thus the BOV almost always opens when the throttle is suddenly closed, but you only hear the familiar sound from the BOV when the pressure that is released through it is big enoug. So basically, the BOV always let the pressure out of the system between the TB and the compressor. But it keeps the system filled with air and the compressor wheel spinning, so that when you once again hit the throttle, the compressor don't have to start from stillstanding and the IC and plumbing don't have to be filled with air before the boost ocurres. Without a BOV, the air slamming against the throttleplate will reverse and move towards the compressor again, thus causing surge, and also emptying the IC and piping. This means that the IC and piping will have to be filled with air again when you hit the throttle, something which steals time and causes lag. And also as mentioned, the compressor has come to a complete stop and needs more time to build up boost, thus also causing lag. I'm curious as to how your VCV valve system works? Is it a one way valve thing? If so, if the air can only pass from the plumbing and to the intake, then this is a bad idea, as it lets air bypass the intercooler, and also destabilise the airflow. I agree that it would relieve the pressure caused by a shut throttle, but then again, it relieves the pressure in the wrong end of the system, allowing the air to flow FROM the throttleplate TO the compressor before it is released into the manifold. This empties the system for air, and causes lag when hitting the throttle again. Also since this airflow is going in the opposite direction than the air coming from the turbo that causes a disturbance in the airflow when you hit the throttle. If it only works the other way around, then it serves no purpose, as there is only vacuum in the manifold when the tb is shut. If it is so that the valve in your system needs both the boost from the turbo side pushing pluss the vacuum from the intake side(when the throttle is closed) pulling for it to open, then it makes more sense. Then the air bypassing the IC won't be a problem as the valve would only open when there is both pressure upstream of the throttleplate, and vacuum downstream of the throttleplate, a condition that is only present when the throttleplate is suddenly closed. But still, your system would have the error of causing the reversion of the airflow etc. So if so, I would advise you to alter it so that it relieves the pressure from just before the TB, not from the compressor outlet. And I also agree with Jersey in that it might be to small and restrictive to give adequate venting.

But since there will be some room between the edge of the gasket and the port, can this cause some sort of turbulence, which will cause a restriction? Or perhaps make it easier to get an exhaust leak? You see, If I trim the corners to fit the square ports, the middle on the sides will still be a bit to wide, so that the gasket don't even with the port. It's a bit away if you know what I mean. But your sure this isn't a prob?

Hi! Well, I got some parts from MSA, and of course they had managed to give me a intake/exhaust gasket with round exhaust ports, although I specifically stated I had a P90 head with square exhaust ports. So, the question is this, can I use this gasket and just trim the round ports to fit the square exhaust outlets? Or is this a bad thing to do, as the gasket will some not fit snug with the outlet, but be a bit away from it on the center of the flat sides? You see, if I am to send the gasket back to MSA and wait for a new one, that will take forever as I live in Norway, and the shipping takes quite a while. Please advice on this! PS: I will be running a high boost application

Thanks for the reply. First of all, I have to say that your car look awesome!! That's some engine you got there!! How about routing both the rocker cover outlet and the pcv outlet to the same catch-tank then? Wouldn't that work out fine?

I know it's best to not have these connected to the intake, because then I get everything all filled up with oil and such. Can I just put a K&N Breather on both of these or what? Or do I need to run a catch tank etc etc?