pjo046

Yes, it is a bit colder here. But this car I am only going to use from april to october each year. In the middle of the summer, the temperature usually lies between 20 and 30 degrees celsius. Not sure how many degrees fahrenheit that is though.... So do you guys think that in such a climate, the two row 240Z radiator will hold up fine?

No, unfortunately, I don't have a 280ZXT radiator available. Or any other radiator for that matter. And it's impossible to find a used one here in Norway. So which radiator do you guys suggest then? If I am to buy a new one anyway...

I understand this is a two row unit? Will this do when I install a 280ZXT engine with T3/T04B, electromotive TEC3 etc? Or will I need a new one? If this works fine, I'll save some money there. If not, I'll buy a aluminium one from MSA. Have anyone bought the non-polished one from them? Is it hard to polish yourself, or is it worth over 100$ extra to have it polished?

I am going to get earls fittings and hoses for my engine. I have 550cc injectors, a jsk fuel rail, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, tec 3, T3/T04B. Is 6-AN lines big enough do you think? What size line and fittings should I use for the oil-supply to the turbo?

Just need a quick yes or no to this, as I am selling my old manifolds, and a guy with a L24 is wondering if he can use it!

Well, now I have finally received the 1981 Turbo ZX engine I bought from usa. I have taken off the manifolds, distributor, crank sensor etc from the block. Now I am going to put it on a engine stand. How can I check compression etc when it stands like this, not connected to power or anything...? Also, other things I should check now to be sure the block, head, headgasket and internals are ok and that I won't need to take the engine completely apart? Thourough explanations are welcome, I'm not so good when it comes to the engine block, all I know is turbos, chassis etc...

Yes, well I've tried negotiating about the shipping costs, but with no luck. Anyone knows of other stores selling these products at the same price and perhaps with cheaper shipping costs? The items would ship for 70$ usps, but they refuse to ship anything other than DHL or UPS

The best deal I have found so far is: Fidanza Flywheel Built To Fly NT and Turbo 335.00$ SPEC, Clutch Kits Stage 2 - Sprung (Kevlar Disc) (81-83) 2.8L Turbo, 450 ft.lbs 285.00$ Total Products 620.00$ Shipping 245.00$ (4-6 weeks ground shipping to norway) Total 865.00$ So, is this a bargain or a rip off?

Anyone got recomendations? Anyone knows of a internet store that sells flywheels for the 280ZXT at really low prices?

Or will this manifold be slightly different than the stock manifold, causing the mounting locations to interfere with the exhaust manifolds mounting locations? I was thinking of getting me a N42 non egr intake manifold, just need to make sure it will fit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33703&item=7948431577&rd=1 I had hoped so, it would look nice. But if the 240ZX and 300ZX has different gas filler holes, I guess it won't work...?

Buy a turboengine and driveline from a 280ZX Turbo, install a T3/T04B or E turbo, standalone enginemanagement, 550cc injectors, 60 mm throttlebody and a good intercooler with 2.25" or 2.5" plumbing and BOV. And 3" exhaust! And of course upgrade the suspension and brakes. This is what I'm doing!

Just use a stock exhaust manifold from a ZX turboengine. For increased flow, try to port it a bit, and ceramic coating would be a nice thing to do too. This is something I'll do on mine. Instead of spending much money on an exhaust manifold, I'd rather use the money on a good T3/T04 hybrid turbo if I were you, and on a good engine management system as Haltech, Electromotive, Autronic etc, or megasquirt or something like that. And remember to get a 60mm throttlebody from a nissan 240sx instead of the stock 50mm throttlebody, and of course a good intercooler and plumbing. These things listed are the most important and efficient upgrades to a stock L6 turboengine. I wouldn't waste my money on an expensive one-off exhaust manifold.

Hi! First of all, I don't know what the s130 and s30 models mean? Guess it's the 280ZX(s130), and the earlier Z's (s30's)? If not, please explain. Anyhow, I'm interested in a 3" downpipe to go in a 1970 240Z, that has a 280ZX Turboengine with a T3/T4 hybrid, and a T5 transmission. Can this be done with two 45 degree bends, or does it have to be 90 degrees? I don't mind a tight fit, as long as it clears and don't rub against the chassis. Will the DP come with a flange at the rear, or just a standard universal type fitting that slides onto the next pipe if you know what I mean. What would the price be? Aproximately. I live in Norway, so I'm also wondering how much the shipping costs would be to 5119 Ulset, Norway, through USPS and the cheapest shipping option.

As for experience with standalone engine management, none. As for experience with Z-cars in general though, I have some experience. Take a look at my personal link, and from there go to my homepage.

Will run the Electromotive TEC3 engine management system. And run a 3-core spearco intercooler. So I guess the 15 psi wastegate actuator will be good!

The Turbosmart E-boost that you linked has a nice feature: "Programmable gate pressure function to totally eliminate wastegate creep - you tell the wastegate when to open" Does the other electronic boost controllers have this feature as well? If not, that make's some of the extra money it costs worth it. I have personally bought a Greddy Profec B2. The new modell. Bought it new of ebay for 220$ I think. Anyone knows if this has this feature, so that wastegate creep is eliminated? HOPE SO! Also, anyone have any experience using this as a boost gauge as well? That way I would save money on not having to buy a boost gauge, and would have less gauges to worry about placement for.

Ok, good. So then the 51 000 mileage is accurate. Guess I won't need to do anything with the engine then. Will of course run a compression test on it. Max boost I'll try to make will be 20psi. Is the stock headgasket and bolts good for that amount of boost? A complete chain-renewal set costs about 100$. Guess it's worth the money to change it all if I am changing the tensioner. Just so it's done. As for the turbo specs Clifton, I'll go with a T3/T04B from James Thagard. He says this is the best bet for the money, and I won't need a spacer since it's not an E housing, thus I won't need to remove the studs from the exhaust manifold(which can be hard sometimes because they easily breake). The turbo I get from him has the following specs: A new Garret T3/T04B, Stage V turbine wheel/.63 a/r turbine housing T04B hi-fi compressor wheel (55lbs/min), water-cooled & 360deg thrust bearing, Ceramic coated turbine housing, polished compressor housing, internal wastegate. I get this for 910$ Here's the reason James meant the B housing is better: "The hi-fi wheel is designed for the B-housing and flows 55lbs/min whereas the largest wheel designed for the E is the 60-trim and it flows 52lbs/min. That is 30hp less worth of flow. The b housing will deliver more flow when comparing these 2 wheels. The upside to the B is that it does not require a spacer. The spacer route requires that you remove the old studs and replace them with longer ones. 50% of the time you are guaranteed to break off a stud in the exhaust manifold. That requires the manifold be removed from the engine. The downside to the B is that it does not look as impressive as the E because it is smaller in diameter. However, it is much thicker than the E. Bottom line, this setup I have suggested will flow more than the 60-trim E setup" "This turbo will outflow the T3/T04E 50-trim by ~80hp and will not adversely affect spoolup time. Basically, this turbo will use a larger(higher flowing) compressor wheel shoved into a B housing instead of the E housing. You must oversize the turbo on the L6 to reach your desired hp goals. Again, this is because the L6 heads just don't flow very well. A ported L6 head will flow 200cfm whereas a stock RB26 head might flow 260cfm. Huge difference as you can see. The max hp from this turbo is 550hp, but I would suspect you can reach ~425-450hp@wheels with this turbo and 25psi of boost. Trust me when I say 450hp@wheels is pretty damn fast in a Z!" Any comments on my choice of turbo is greatly appreciated!!! And advice on what size -AN fittings an lines etc I'll need for the oil inlet/outlet and water inlet/outlet on this turbo.

This engine is out of a 1981 280ZXT. Does that mean it's a 5 digit one then? So I can't be sure of the mileage? But anyhow you think I can just leave it as is, and concentrate on removing A/C, mechanical fan, port the manifolds, smooth out the inlet manifold, ceramic coat the exhaust manifold, and let that be it? And spend the rest of the money on engine management, turbo, driveline, suspension and brakes?

Anyone else has any input on this? And on the other questions?

The 280ZX Turbo-engine I have bought(It's on it's way to Norway, haven't received it yet), has 51 000 miles on it. Should I change the headgasket to a 1mm steel one, and install ARP Head studs, and at the same time resurface the block and head? Or isn't this really necessary, so if I'm budget minded I can just drop doing this? It will cost a bit to do it in parts and labour, and I'm running out of funds. Does the 280ZX' have 5 or 6 digit trip-counters on the speedometer? If it has 5 like the earlier Z's, then I can't be sure of the mileage really being 51 000. So if so, I guess I should change the headgasket and install studs, because then I can at the same time inspect the pistons etc... But if it has 6 digits, and thus the engine has really run 51 000 miles, then it shouldn't be necessary? I'm shooting for 350hp at the wheels. Can the stock headgasket and bolts cope with such power reliably? And how about the stock ZXT clutch? Will this hold up? If not, anyone has any cheap alternatives? Is a lighter flywheel a waste of money? I will install 4-piston calipers up front, and ferrodo brake shoes at the rear in the 240Z this engine is going into. Will the stock 71 brake booster etc do, or do I need to swap it with 280ZXT versions?

Hi! I have one option I am ready to buy, a new Garrett T3/T04B with internal wastegate, polished housing, ceramic coated, Hi-fi compressor wheel, stage 5 turbine wheel, watercooled, for 860$ But now I have also perhaps the possibility to buy a new Turbonetics T3/T04E with stage 3 turbine wheel, 0.63 A/R, ball bearings, watercooling and polished compressor housing for 600$. For this I'll need to buy an internal wastegate too, so the total would probably be 750-800$. But I don't know if the specs other than those I've stated. The T3/T04B on the other hand would be optimalized for the L6. Which would you go for?

Yes, go with the red cross. I myself have donated money to the Norwegian Red Cross, so has my girlfriend. We have a friend that is on holliday in Sri Lanka at the moment, luckily we found out today that she was ok.

I would just strongly suggest that everyone contribute by sending money to the flood victims in Sri Lanka, India and Thailand. I have done my share already, and will try to give more although I have no income. If everyone gave away the money they normally use on fireworks at new years eve, even that would really make a big difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yours sincerely Paul E. Johannessen Norway

Not sure yet, as the engine is underway right now. Being shipped from usa to Norway, will be here in the end of january. But I'm gathering the parts for the puzzle! Take a look at my other post where I state the specs of the turbo I'm buying. Tell me what you think!!