pjo046

Hehe. Nice picture. One happy suspension freak!

Yes, MSA's lines are meant to connect to the hard brake line, not directly to the caliper. I know cause I bought a set for my last Z. So I would buy from somewhere else. All you need to know is how long the lines need to be.

Ok. So if I move the pivot point out a bit to get more camber, that helps traction. But then again, that gives me more bumpsteer... :-/

Oh, and I'll use 17x7 rims with 225/45 - 17 tires.

I am aware that it won't remove the bumpsteer. But, it will reduce the bumpsteer at least. Or, I could be mistaken bumpsteer for something different. Like I said, my last Z handled much worse after being lowered. This is what I want to avoid. The question really is: Should I relocate the pivot points or get spacers? I am aware of that both these methods do the same thing. But I have heard people say that relocating the pivot points is the better option of the two. And also heard some say that only racers should bother with relocating the pivot points.... So which is it? As for my ride height, it will be as low as I can with the setup I have. Stock top mounts, unsectioned struts, illuminas front and rear and MM coilovers. So I don't know how much I can lower the car from stock ride height and still have sufficient suspension travel. 2.5"? 3"? As mentioned, my springs are 175 in front and 200 in the rear, so it's not the hardest setup which means I will need more travel than if I had say 250 in front and 275 rear.

Well, first of, I have searced the forums and found much information on the subject. If I get the mod done, it is not me performing it but John at baddog z parts as I am buying a new crossmember from him(My is bent, so I needed a new one. Turns out the whole frame may be a bit bent....) Anyhow, what I want to know is: Is this something worth doing on a primarely street car? I have gotten Ross C's coilovers, with 175 springs in front and 200 springs rear. I am going to lower the car as much as I can without sectioning the struts. I read on several of the threads I found when searching that relocating the pivot points is only for racers etc, and that a street driver won't notice the difference. Is this so? Am I perhaps better of just buying a set of bumsteer spacers? My previous Z(260Z 2+2) I lowered 1.5 inches with the MSA lowering springs. I did not install bumpsteerspacers on it or modify it in any other way. Well, that car drove much worse after I lowered it. It would chase alot on the highway etc. So basically, what do you recommend I do? Keep in mind that if I do get the pivot points relocated, I won't have camber plates, adjustable control arms or anything like that to correct any errors in the geometry that may arise. Please advice on this one. Also if you know a very detailed description to make sure the new pivot points are located on the correct place horisontally, please let me know, as that wasn't described much in the threads I found.

Ok! Thanks!!

Hehe. Forgot about that. Now, how about the glueing of the broken insulator? Do you think it'll work? I mean, when the car is on the ground, there is always pressure upwards. It's only when the car is jacked up that there would be put much stress on the glued joint right? Since it is in the rear there is no turning of the strut/springs etc either.

Huh? Sorry, but not sure what you were trying to say there... Anyone else has any opinions on this? If I have to buy a new mount, I thought I might just get camber plates instead. Who sells these?

Well, was installing the coilovers, and when I got to the last one I managed to rip apart the mounting insulator when I was torqueing the locking nut... Obviously used to much force, although I didn't hear the torque-wrench click. Do you think I can just glue the rubber back to the insulator? The top metal part just twisted around, of the rubber.

That's right. And I have also mentioned in my application that I am wanting to use coilovers. So they will probably look at that area specific when checking the car. Also, my strut-housings are already modified, så I can't use the stock springs on them anymore....

If anyone can get me the necessary documentation for the spring-type I have, I'll pay that person 30$! No question about it!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I contacted Hyperco, the manufacturer of hypercoil springs. They couldn't help me. They said the springs were primarely meant for racing, and they didn't endorse using it for street-legal vehicles.... Not much help there.... Not sure who else to contact. I have heard that no coilovers are TÃœV approved..... If so, I am in deep trouble.... Also, I don't know if the TÃœV approval has to be vehicle specific..........

Well, I have sent in my application for the rebuild of my car. Here in Norway, the vehicle authorities are very strict, and one has to get aproval to for example make an engine swap. Since I am wanting to swap the L24 for an L28ET, I also have to document that I at the same time upgrade the suspension and the brakes. I have chosen the coil overs from modern motorsports. Now the problem is, that for the springs to be approved by the authorities, they have to be cleared/accepted by an independent, aproved lab. For example TÃœV approval or DOT approval. I don't think the hypercoil springs I have have some sort of approval like that. Does anyone know of some documents on these springs that I can use? Maybe some of you who are selling these springs? I just need some documentation from a testing lab, that states how big a load they can handle, etc etc. I have 10" long springs front and rear with 2.5" inner diameter. The front springs are 175 rate and the rear ones are 200 rate. PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE THOSE OF YOU WHO CAN!!!!!!!!!!!! If I don't find a solution to this, I'll never get the car registered and get plates on it.

Where can one get the power brute 2 way, 4 pinion LSD's for $550? Are these things hard to install? I have a 3.54:1 R200 from a 280ZXT. I also have 280ZXT CV halfshafts. Will a LSD like this fit into that?

Hehe. SO, you people are complaining about the gas prices. How much is it for a gallon nowadays? Here in Norway we use liters, not gallons. I think 1 gallon is about 4 liters? Anyway, a liter with gas costs 11-12 kroners over here. 12 kroners is almost 2 dollars. So take 2 dollars, multiply by four, and you have our price per gallon. Its about 8 dollars. Say 7 dollars then. But still, I think that is more than what you pay? Hehe

280Zone, Thanks a bunch!!! And of course, thank you all who tried to help me out on this one!!!!!

ok, what exactly will I need? Which of the sensors will work with my setup? Something that plugs directly into the transmission, and converts the speed there to electrical signals? Or one of those that attaches to the halfshaft? I got a bit confused reading that long article, as to what I would need, as my english isn't the very best since I don't read to much english apart from on these forums. Hehe.

I am thinking of buying an electronic autometer speedometer for my car. The only reason for going electronic instead of a mechanical one is that I can't seem to find a 5" diameter autometer ultra lite speedometer that has the reading in khp instead of mph, and I need kph. So, if I buy this speedometer: http://egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Speedometer&Series=Ultra-Lite&PN=ATM-4489-M&Cart= what will I need to make it work with my 280ZXT T5 transmission? Is it a lot of stress? Would I be better of if I could get a hold of a mechanical speedometer? Because these attach directly to the stock speedometer cable? Or? Hehe, I don't have a clue about this.

On a norwegian Nissan forum I attend they have a sticky where the members can post pictures of themselves, and state what facts regarding occupation, location etc. Might that be something to do here as well? It's always nice to know who you're writing with etc. Just a suggestion!

Well, even more on my part since I live in Europe. The total would be around 70$. But the only other quick release hub I've seen before that fits the MOMO steering wheel pattern costed around 200$ or something.... Anyone knows of something cheaper?

Hehe. ****! I was in a hurry when I wrote the post, because the others in the apartment was waiting for me as we were to watch a movie. Hehe. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-280ZX-240Z-RED-QUICK-RELEASE-STEERING-WHEEL-HUB_W0QQitemZ7994867403QQcategoryZ33704QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Is this thing anything, or just a piece of crap? As I understand it it will be in between the steering wheel and the existing hub, and that means the steering wheel will come further toward the driver and that's a bad thing I guess. Opinions? Anyone tried it? Would be very nice as an anti theft device and it's cheap.

When you get the L28ET to produce about 400hp, will the stock front diff mount hold up?(A new one) Or will I need a solid steel front diff mount?

Are there anyone here who is good with photoshop or similar programs? If so, could you take a picture of a 240Z, and change the color to BMW steel grey, and add Konig Imagine wheels? And leave the bumpers chromed. That would be really great!! Had I been better at photoshop, I would have done it myself. If someone does this for me, could you also shave away the antenna, and lower the car. It would need to be a picture with a msa airdam in the front. I would be really thankful!!!!