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pjo046

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Everything posted by pjo046

  1. Ok, I have taken some new pictures. I have a 280ZXT harness lying around myself, so took pictures of the two connectors that are shown on one of the pictures you couldn't identify. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4534&cat=530&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4533&cat=530&page=1 They are located on the harness, just before it exits from the interiorside through the firewall to the engine bay. As for the other picture you are unsure of, the one with the connection hanging down from only one intact wire, I assume must be from the FI-loom as described here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620 (Picture 18 from the top down) On a intact unmodified 280ZXT harness, it would look like this: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4535&cat=530&page=1 I haven't gotten an answer from him about that, but I am pretty sure it has to be that one. But anyways, if you look at the walk through pictures here on hybridz(The link I posted some lines above here), you will see when you compare the connections from just before the harness exits the firewall aren't the same as the ones I have shown on my pictures. The connections I have pictures of both have 8 pins, but the connections on the walk-through has 6 pins. Any idea as to what causes this? Is it merely because the pictures on the walk through is from a 81 harness and my and my friends harnesses are from 82 or 83 280ZXT's`? Also, since these connections are in fact different, does anybody know how to hook them up properly?
  2. I'll try to make him take some better photos, and also describe excactly from off where on the harness they are coming. As for AAC and EGR, what is that short for?
  3. Hi! A friend of mine is trying to install a 280ZXT harness in his 240Z with 280ZXT engine swap. He has some troubles figuring things out, and we can't seem to find the answer by looking at the guide through sticky here at hybridz. The harness he has was bought from a person in the USA, that had already done the swap, but now didn't need the harness because he upgraded to standalone. So at least one of the plugs are modified.(see picture) Can anyone tell us where these are going and what they are for? How to connect them etc? Pictures would be nice as well! 1: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4529&cat=530&page=1 2: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4528&cat=530&page=1 3: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4527&cat=530&page=1 4: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4526&cat=530&page=1
  4. I'll be installing a TEC3 once I get that far on my project. (Probably sometime during next spring)
  5. Yes, I am going to sound deaden the interior. But I want to avoid sounding to loud for other people outside as well.
  6. Hmm. Wish magnaflow made 4" glasspacks with 3" inlet and outlet... I want a stainless steel glasspack, and also I have a large order at summit now, so thought I'd add one to my order before it ships. Summit has some glasspacks that I think has a 4" outer diameter, but they are regular steel... :-/
  7. For those of you who doesn't already know, I am building a 240Z with a heavily modified L28ET in it. I will run a 3" downpipe and 3" piping back to a oval magnaflow glasspack muffler that has a total length of 14" and a internal core length of 7". I was thinking of perhaps add another resonator/glasspack on the straight pipe in the trans tunnel, just after the transmission. Will a round glasspack muffler fit there if it has a 6" outside diameter? Or will this interfere with either the ground clearance or the drive-shaft? You see, I want to tone down the exhaust note more than on my last Z. That one was too loud. I still want a nice roar when I hit the gas pedal though, but when cruising I want to be able to speak and listen to music etc. Have a quiet ride when cruising in other words. If the glasspack I am talking about won't fit, do any of you have other suggestions???
  8. Hmmm.. I feel your pain! But like you say, sooner or later you'll end up buying a new Z anyways. But how much do you expect to get for it? Is it really worth selling? It will definately be a loss when you count in all the money you'll need to spend whenever you're buying a new Z and start all over. On the other hand, it will of course be nice to start all over again with clean sheets, with all the knowledge you now have about the Z cars!
  9. As for experiences with TEP, I bought a lot of stuff from them for my last Z, before I heard here on the forum of many bad experiences some has had. Anywas, all my deals went smooth, they replied fast and they always shipped the items with low value invoices to help me avoid custom taxes etc. So I have continued to deal with them. I am the customer spork mentioned that was getting JE-pistons from them. Seems everything went by ok there as well. So I have only had positive experiences with them.
  10. I have searched and searched the net. Where can I find the cheapest rotors? I need both front and rear rotors for the 1984-85 non-Turbo 300ZX that has the 4-bolt pattern. I want the rotors to be cross drilled and slotted. Can anyone point out a place for me if you know? Will use the rotors for the 4x4 front swap and the 240SX rear disc conversion from Modern Motorsport. Oh, does anyone have a set of 240SX rear calipers lying that they could sell me?
  11. Well, finally the head is finished. Now I just have to wait for it to arrive here in Norway, which means about a month or so in shipping time. I've had it ported and polished, it's had a performance valve job with the valve seats cut at a radius, it has a new cam with new retainers, springs and lashpads, and resurfaced rocker arms. Don't know the specs of the new cam, but if Spork sees this thread, maybe he can chime in as he is "the man in charge". lol. Take a look: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4086 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4085&cat=530 So looking forward to getting the engine built, and installed in the car and start tuning it all. (This is far ahead in time....)
  12. From the album: My 240Z with 280ZXT engine project

    And it's powdercoated on the outside. New stainless valves
  13. From the album: My 240Z with 280ZXT engine project

    New cam, springs, retainers, reground rocker arms etc etc
  14. Ouch.... So I should definately use rubber bushings on the side that is away from the strut, and perhaps polyurethane on the other side. Or, I could get a set of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Tension-Control-Tie-TC-Rods_W0QQitemZ7996706444QQcategoryZ42609QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem And use some rubber in between to reduce the noise.
  15. Does anyone know what colorcode BMV steel grey is?
  16. So I should stay away from the polyurethane T/C-rod bushings that I got with my bushing kit? Because they will be to stiff to allow enough movement? Can that have been some of the problem on my previous Z? I must say this thread has become quite informative for me!!
  17. So how about adding a pair of these? http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4190&Category_Code=PSDC10 Would that help in any way do you think?
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