pjo046

Look at these pics: http://forum.200sx-ogn.org/viewtopic.php?t=13683 Crazy!!! Look at how big that transmission is!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get James Thagard to hook you up with a proper turbo for your setup!!! Not sure of the name of his website. Those who are, please chime in.

Well, my L28T will be as follows: Block: Honed, forged pistons, Clevite 77 rod and main bearings, rods polished and shot peened, ARP rod bolts, perhaps ARP main studs(Needed, or will the stock ones do?) Head: Will be ported(Inlet ports will be port matched to the 1.5" runners, the exhaust ports will be port-matched to the ported exhaust manifold), new cam installed with new springs etc and reground rocker arms, valve job done, 1mm HKS gasket Stock turbo exhaust manifold, ported ann ceramic coated inside and outside Custom intake with 1.5" runners and velocity stacks. 60mm TB Turbo: T3/TO4B Stage V turbine wheel/.63 a/r turbine housing T04B hi-fi compressor wheel (55lbs/min) (This will outflow the E housing according to James Thagard which I bought the turbo from) water-cooled & 360deg thrust bearing Ceramic coated turbine housing Fuel: 550cc Lucas O-ring injectors Custom fuel rail included with the custom intake SX FPR Engine management: Electromotive TEC3 Fidanza aluminium flywheel. Single groove europulley. Will run a compression of 8.5:1, and run on 93.5 octane pump gas. What else would you recommend doing to give as much power and longevity as possible? Will the crankshaft need to be balanced? Have heard that these are pretty stout, and are rearly out of balance. This one only has 50K on it. Am of course planing on getting a 3" downpipe. Hopefully from JeffP.

Yeah, they look a bit alike. But if you look closer, you'll see that the yellow one has much wider rear wheel arches. They are custom built by the owner, buy chopping up a pair of 911 Turbo arches into 8 pieces, and weld it together to fit smooth on the 240Z chassis. http://www.grombil.com/Grombiler/Racing/Biler/TRS_z240/DSCF0057.jpg That other one you showed pictures of had about as wide arches in front as in the rear. The yellow one has twice the width rear. As for the front spoiler/airdam, only the yellow one has a custom one. A complete custom airdam made by a norwegian named Jan Krakevik. The blue one only has a kaminari airdam that MSA sells, and a painted stock bumper. You'll notice the yellow one has no bumper. Furthermore, the yellow one has stock rear lights and front lights, the other has covers over the front lights, and custom rear lights. It also has hood vents, which the yellow has not. But they do have some things in common of course. (The rear spoiler and wing, the front fenders, and the side mirrors) I personally like the one you linked better, the yellow one is far too wide at the rear for my taste. It's out of proportions!! http://www.grombil.com/Grombiler/Racing/Biler/TRS_z240/DSCF0065.jpg

huh?

That 240Z is built by Rolf Tengesdal. He got the car in 1989, and began upgrading it.

Click on the link: http://www.grombil.com/ Scroll down to a yellow Z, click on the picture, then on the link with "racing", and then on the yellow Z. Lot's of pictures. Everything is written in Norwegian though, that's why I gave a "detailed" description on how to find the car pictures!

Here are some pictures of the block after I took out the crankshaft. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2596&size=big&cat=530 Does it look like a little honing is all that is needed before installing new forged pistons? How can I get the headgasket residues of the block myself, without destroying the flatness of the block? getZ said that I will need to have the small end of the rods enlarged by a machine shopmachine because the forged pistons use floating wrist pins instead of press fit. So there is no way I can install forged pistons myself? I have to let a machine shop take care of it?

getZ, what are you saying? That I shouldn't go with the Top End Performance JE pisons because of their homemade bushings? So, there is no way to install those pistons without the help of a machine shop? I have added some more pictures in my gallery, showing the empty block. How does it look folks? Does it look like a little honing is all that is needed to do? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2596&size=big&cat=530

Well, have taken it all apart now. Will post some pictures soon. I'm not a mechanic, just a hobby doityourselfer. This is the first engine I have ever tore down. But it was pretty easy. As to installing it again, checking clearances and freeplay, that is another matter. I want to do as much as possible myself, because engine shops here in Norway charge like crazy for the work they do. No way I could afford that. So, honing for example, am I able to do this myself? How do I proceed with that if so? How about polishing the crank? I have been thinking about buying the "kit" top end performance sells, with cam kit(I coose the grind), forged JE pistons with JE rings(I choose bore size, stroke and compression ratio), clevite 77 rod and main bearings, ARP rod bolt set, ARP head stud set etc. This should make for a stout bottom end right? I read in how to modify your nissan/datsun OHC engine that it would be a good idea to sand and polish the block interior to remove casting-sand residue, and then paint the inside. Waste of time, or worth the effort??? Anything else I can do myself? After I got the crankshaft and everything of just now, I used a (not sure what it's called in english) high pressure washer to get rust build-up etc in the cooling channels out. Also, how do I remove the head-gasket residues on the block? As for the head(P90), it's getting a complete makeover by Spork(James Roraback) If you look at my posts in the turbo section, you see what compression ratio etc I am shooting for.

I have now removed the pistons and connecting rods, as I will be installing forged pistons. It was easy enough to remove this without taking of the crankshaft, so I am guessing it should be easy to install new pistons with the crankshaft in the block. Is there any reason that I should remove the crankshaft as well? The bearings seems fine and all. Would it be a smart thing to remove the crankshaft and then remove all the casting lines etc on the inside of the block and smooth it out, clean it and then paint it? Or waste of time? If so, can I leave the crankshaft in, saving me for much time?

James, it's just reflection. The cylinder walls looked really nice. This engine only has 50 000 miles on it. Do you have any piston recommendations? Any other tips or advice now that I am going to swap pistons? What else need I do?

Well, decided to go all the way at once, when I have the chance. So have teared down the engine again. Now, before I remove the crankshaft and pistons, I just need to make sure that these are in fact the dished turbo pistons, and not the flat top pistons. I thought the turbo pistons were dished having a certain squeese pattern like other turbo pistons I've seen. So are these the stock turbo pistons?: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2552&cat=530&page=1 (Not sure how to post the pictures directly in here)