dustin280zx

That is at the strip were I go to as well. I didn't see the bug there but I did see that guys 260z a few years back. It wasn't pretty but did run a 10.78 NA. The video doesn't do justice for the sound. It is very unique. Sounds closer to a 6 cylinder than a v-8.

There is a 500 CI LS1 that makes 717 hp and 630 tq on pump gas with stock ls7 heads and 923 hp on a little shot of the bottle. Price is 14,900. Its in the April issue of CHP. I know that no one has put that in a z yet and you can buy mounts for it too.

I'm getting a mustang for almost free. It has a 302 with aftermarket heads(don't know the brand yet) and basically new ignition and and alot of new parts. The reason I got it for free is because a bunch of retards worked on it and it doesn't run. From hearing stories I already know the distributor is out a tooth or so and maybe the valves are too tight. It's a timing/valvetrain issue for sure. I think its a 5 speed manual but not sure. It's my new car for some type of Chevy motor plus a turbo or two. Just wondering how much these engines/trans would go for if they were sold running or parted out as I don't know much about ford prices. I was told 800-1000 from another mustang owner. Any prices on what you would pay would be nice.

I would put a restrictor at the turbos using something like this rather than the block. I would think this would be better because you probably have a T running off the front block port and it would fill the lines quicker providing oil sooner and if a piece of debris gets stuck in the restrictor at the block your out two turbos. If it was a single turbo than it wouldn't matter if the restriction was at the block. That's just my thinking though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARRETT-4-Oil-inlet-fitting-GT28-30-35R-w-Restrictor_W0QQitemZ370125811211QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

Most people use nitrous jets for restictors. I run a -4an feed and -12 an drain with no restrictors and no problems. My oil psi is about 40 idle and about 70 above idle hot. You don't need to restrict it if you have a good drain so the oil doesn't back up.

Do they still do rebuilds since Dave left? I know they don't do anymore upgrades like the s480. Dave is real good. His website is http://www.turbodaves.com Any good diesel shop should be able to do it too.

s400 turbo will get you there with room to spare. Might be able to use a mp t70 though at least a 112 LS cam. Pick your duration and lift. Intake lift isusually alittle higher on Forced induction. Mine is .601 intake and .597 ex By some cheap aluminum heads like canfield or brodix. aeromotive fuel system (a-1000 pump, 13204 regulator, 10 feed, 8 return) Carb from a reputable shop like CSU, The Carb Shop, or C&S SHOULD have forged bottom (I have scat I beams, trw pistons, and gm steel crank. nothing spacial but stronger than cast) single plane intake (victor jr.) At least a 4 bolt block. 2 bolt with splayed caps would be better. For Hot side you can make your own or do somthing like myself and some other poeple did/doing. You don't need an intercooler. I run water/meth with 17 pounds of boost on 93 pump gas with only detonation to the powerglide at the track http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134781 I ran a 10.01 @ 141 and 113 in the 1/8 before the boost got turned up. I have a stock 4 bolt main as well with stock suspension and stock r200 lsd with 235/60/r15 drag radials. If you calculate the mph and weight (3230) its around 630 to the wheels and I'm not done tuning.

You can grind down the flange so a silicone hose slips over or you can buy a 3 1/2 inch v-band assembly and just weld the a 3 1/2 inch tube the one of the v-bands. Make sure its the correct style though. I would just take the compressor off and grind it down just so there is a little lip on it for a silicone hose and t-bolt clamp.

It is about 60 degrees cooler than if you run FI because the fuel has time to atomize and cool the air before the combustion chamber. We had a temp sensor in the hat and one below the carb. We saw around 60 difference. I forget the exact but the fuel does cool it a good bit. That was with c16 and a/f of about 11.8-12.0. I run a 33% alcohol mix with 17 pounds and no detonation at all with 93 octane. I'll have to hook the temp sensors up to my car to see how it is with the water/meth kit. After a 1/4 mile run when I come back to the pits the hat is still cool to the touch so its doing an amazing job. You'll love your turbo car. They pull so hard at the other end its ridiculous.

What year is your monte? I have a '71 rolling chassis I bought from my brother-in-law. It weighs close to 4000. It has been to a 10.15 @136 not hooking up too well. The car put down 699 rwhp on 15 pounds of boost (F1-R prochager) in a 383 with no intercooler. That was with 28" mickey drag radials, 3.73, and a powerglide. Just so you know what it takes to get a brick/boat down the track which you probably know already. I have been thinking about switching over the motor/tranny from the z to that, but I just like driving my z too much. I'm also excited to see what the z will do with the new turbo! Do you plan on running pump gas? I'm running 17 pounds right now on pump gas with no probs, but the tranny gave out when I made the pass with the boost up. It would just spin on the street.

Well it's been a while since I posted but I'm changing a few things on the car. I sold my turbo. And then I bought a bigger one. It has a 1.10 a/r with an 83mm turbine wheel s475. Its only costing me 50 bucks to upgrade to that turbo so I couldn't pass it up. I was going to get an s480 with the 1.10 a/r but I decided when I have the motor to take the power I'm going to get a gt47-88. I'm not satisfied with the carb so I'm getting dual brpv's in that. I lost high gear in the transmission and I think I shredded the clutches because when I took the filter off there where little peices of clutches. So I'm going to build my tranny to take 1000 hp. I'm doing my downpipe over because I really don't like how its setup right now. All of this will be taking place during spring break and I will post pictures of the new DP which will go OVER the crossmember. Last year I got most of the bugs worked out. Goal of this year is to drive it to the track, make a nine second pass, and go home. Then I'll just enjoy taking cruises. Last year was a learning experience for sure and I'm making things the way I should have done them to get the car "perfect" in my mind. Did you guys see that SMRE (Steve Morris Racing Engines which has new ownership now) made 2020 HP on PUMP GAS(93 octane) from a 572 HEMI and a procharger (looks like a F3) with BLOWTHRU?

Just a suggestion but you might want to add some window screen over the chicken wire.

http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html It would be easiest to get a carb from CSU for a dead on air fuel. A-1000 fuel pump and 1302 regulator (Aeromotive) 10 feed and 8 return

you won't gain much, if any, stepping it back up to 3.5" unless you change that section to 3.5"

It's an earls pre made -4an line. I think its 40" but I'm not sure. I got it off ebay new. Also, I would go with a digital 6 and not a 6al. That way you can pull timing out when boost comes on, but have the timing in the begining for quicker spool.

There's a plug right above the oil filter you can take out for the feed. I just drilled a hole in the pan and welded a 12an bung to it for the return.

I don't know if it will keep the boost that low (depending on where you have the gate). I just know when I added the spring it went from 15 to 17.

Nice build. Make sure you take the top off the wastegate and put a lock nut on the diaphram shaft. It will be loose more than likely with the nut it comes with. Don't want anything bad to happen because of a 5 cent nut. But I haven't had any problems with that gate so far and it doesn't creep. There should be two springs in there already which is 17 pounds of boost. If you take the bigger diameter spring out (its 2 pounds) and leave the stiffest one in there it will get you 15 pounds. The extra spring that comes with is 8 pounds I think. Just in case you didn't know.

They both have thier pros and cons (FI vs. blowthrough). You have to decide what's right for you.

4" oval would be fine. That's what I'm running. If you have a throttle body already then try it. If it's not making the power it should then get a bigger one. 600 wheel isn't asking for too much with 383/s475 combo with a decent top end.

58mm would be a large restriction. At least a 75.

You should at least have it the same size (area) as your intake tubing. Bigger won't hurt any.

It's more dependable on the a/r size. Mine is 1.22 and the s475 is a 1.32 standard. You can change them to what you want. I should have gotten a s475 but they were sold out at the time and the s472 supported the power that I wanted to make at that time. Alot of guys run the s475 with the 1.32 on there 350 and a couple people on their ford 302's. I'm thinking about upgrading to a s480 with 1.22 a/r depending on what direction I go with the car. Here's the guy I got my s400 from. http://www.turbodaves.com

No, I have a chain on the motor so it doesn't torque over much.

https://www.drgas.net/catalog.php?catid=3 No I do not have a flexpipe. I do not think one is needed and if the header does crack just put some weld over it. The stress comes from thermal expansion as the turbo should be braced. If you do get a flex pipe stay away from the braided ones because they will come apart due to the heat which will send metal braids through your turbo ruining your turbo. The flex pipe which are being used now and the "slip joint bellows" and not the "standard bellow." I have not priced one though. http://www.spdexhaust.com/pdfs/AccPDFs/Bellows.pdf