dustin280zx

Thanks. I'm using a holley 750 hp race. Its setup for blowthrough. Its not that hard to do and takes about 30 minutes. I'm also making my own Boost Regulated PV so that should help it not to lean out during boost. I might just end up sending the carb to CSU but i've came this far and did everything myself so i'm going to try to figure this out too.

i got suspension setup according to jnjdragracing. 3.54 lsd. 235 60 15 mt drag radials. manual valve powerglide. interior is mainly stock minus the roll bar which i tried my best to hide (you cant see it from the side of the car and i'm going to tint the hatch and side windows) the autometer guages. I got sport comp so the dont look too fancy and they are in stock position. I'm using a pro stick mounted in stock location even with the stock boot. engine. ported brodix track 1 heads, ss vavles, ss 1.6 rockers, isky tall red zone roller lifters, trickflow push rods, steel crank, scat rods and srp pistons. stock bore to help the block hold together. aeromotive fuel system. most everything else is in the sig. 8.8:1 compression I'm only going to push to AT THE MOST 700 flywheel because i'm only going to run 10.00. I dont want to ruin the car with all the safety stuff so i'll just tune it to 10.00. anything i'm missing?

no i have the radiator mounted forward and tilted back. If i ran a pin on hood i could probably put it on (because when the hood lifts up the front of it tilts down and in towards the radiator) but i want to run the stock hood to keep the "stock" look. The meth/water kit is alot easier and simpler and will do a better job cooling the air inlet temps. The car will run cooler too.

camshaft is like 242@50 I and 248@ 50 E .595 lift E and .601 lift I with 1.6 rockers. I know the duration is around those numbers but i do remember the lift. I have it wrote down on a piece of paper with all the other engine specs in my chilton's book but i've seen to misplaced it somewhere in from moving the car between garages.

here are some pictures of the headers.

The link for the steering is the only place where i see the headers giving trouble. If i remember correctly the zx firewall is 3" further forward than a z. I'm going the place the wastegate on the left side of the water pump (alternator side). I'm actually working on that right now and just took a break for supper.

They say X2 power on, but i think they're all the same. I bought these from a guy on ebay that had them for his s10 but the headers were to long. They're stainless steel and i only paid 140 for them so we'll see how they last.

I'm working on the top radiator support now. Its probably going to be bolt in. I bought an A/A intercooler and was plan on running it but its just too much trouble and not enough room. I'm going to run a water/meth kit. I was researching on turbo mustang boards and they said a/a really arent all that great. They're fine for driving on the street, but alot of guys a/a get heat soaked at the track and the water/meth kit will lower inlet temps probably more than an a/a.

After three header designs this one is going to stick. The motor has already been started so i'm not worried about that. Hopefully it'll be on the road tuning in a few weeks after i get my water/meth kit, then to the dyno, then to the track. =)

S130 u-joint shafts strong enough to hold around 550 rwhp? I only want to have a 1.6 to 1.7 60' so I'm not too hard on the powertrain but I'll make it up on the other end.

Well ok then, but my 1983 280zx l28E that came with nissan 5 speed and 3.9 open r200 has the 4 bolt halfshafts and not cvs. Will the 300zxt cv's bolt up in the car?

I Have a s471 and I didnt have enough room for a front mount. I'm on my third design for the turbo because the first design didnt look so nice. The second design i made up had the turbo sticking out of the hood a bit and i didnt have enough room for downpipe. I'm running this on the street so i didnt want the down pipe running like he has it because of underhood temps. So now i've got the radiator mounted forward like he does and got rid of my a/a intercooler with the turbo mounted low and i'm going to run a water/meth kit. That turbo is just so fricking big anywhere i put it i ran into problems so i just decided to get rid of the intercooler and i can mount it low with a straight shot to the carb. This thing has gave me alot of headaches but i think it'll look alot nicer with the third design. At least i got alot better at welding and fabricating pipes. I'll post some picks when i'm finished. I only had to order one more 90 with from the chaning of designs so hopefully that comes this week and i'll be done. It's good experience thats for sure. Anyone want an a/a intercooler? haha.

I have a 280zx. Only 280zx turbos came with cv's and from searching they're not as strong as Z31 shafts.

i've searched many things but could'nt find anything on a 300zxt cvs into a 280zx. Will they fit right in with the race flipped? It looks like the 4 bolt pattern stubs for the stock half shafts are about the same size and 4 bolt pattern on the cvs. I dont want to buy them to find out i'm wrong. Sorry if there is a thread about it, but i couldnt find it. thanks, Dustin

Its to suck out blowby and recycle it back through the engine if i'm not mistaken.

I don't have trouble removing the engine/tranny as one unit, but it might be possible to remove just the tranny. I never tried but it could be possible.

You should be fine with 9 pounds of boost on pump gas. Most people that get meth kits are because they want to run high boost and pump gas.

What would cause the resistor to get hot though? I think when I get back home I'm just going to run another wire thats 12 volts and see what happens. the resistor was ground too.

I have a mallory unilite, msd blaster 2, and Digital six that I didn't hook up yet. I have fuel going to the plugs, turned the disturbutor around the world and didnt get ANYTHING (backfire, out the tail pipes, carb, nothing indicating fire) I have spark from the coil and to the plugs, but it is weak which i believe this is my problem. On the 280zx there is a black/white wire and blue wire that went to the coil orginally. I thought for sure that the blue wire was for the positive side of the coil but it showed no volts when i turned the switch on. I hooked to Black/white wire up to use as my 12v switch source with showed it was hot when i turned the key on. When I did this the coil got hot as hell so I thought it was because i didn't have a resistor. Put a resistor on it and have everything wired according to mallory instructions. This time the coil didn't get hot but the resistor got hot as hell. This leads me to the wiring, somewhere along the line i'm missing something which probably deals with the original wires that went to the coil of the car. I've searched on here and google for hours but i couldn't find how someone wired theres up or the specific solution for my problem. Bottom line, I don't have enough fire to the plugs and its in the wiring I think.

I got them loose this morning. However, I read on other forums that guys would lay the strong bar on the frame and then just hit the starter to break them loose. I was going to use this as a last resort haha.

I figured I'd switch gears from the z and put a new oil pump on the '89 cummins. The problem I'm having is that there are four bolts on the crankshaft pulley and they are TIGHT AS HELL. I sheared off a TWO 1/2 to 3/8 inch drive adapters since the smallest metric size I have in half inch is 17mm. I called it quits for the night after I bloodied my elbow up after the second one sheared. I just can't believe that those bolts are that tight. I'm going to get a 1/2 inch 15mm tomorrow. Any suggestions?

weld a chain to the frame and bolt it to your head or block. I've seen some cars done like that and thats what I'm doing to mine.

Sometimes I wonder why I just didn't stay NA with some nitrous because the car would be running right now. But then I watch a video of a v8 turbo car and that whistle just gives me motivation to keep working on it. haha.

Thats were I educated myself on blowthrough. Very, very good site.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/d_systems.php?systemdisplay=carb I'm using A1000 carb system. its # 13204 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D13204&N=700+400300+4294925239+4294839053+1005+115&autoview=sku