dustin280zx

It doesn't scrape. It's 4 inch oval.

I have been thinking about twins but I think I'm going to stick with a single s400. I have an s472 now, but I'm upgrading to an 80 mm. 1,100 Flywheel is nothing these days and guys put out good numbers on those turbos. I really Like AIS' kit. I have the fender mount kit running two nozzles. The Charge pipe is cool to touch after a run with no intercooler.

Yea I know it's dirty and there's oil on it. I haven't cleaned it since I last ran it. I'm doing the cosmetic work over winter break if I have time. The bend isn't as bad as it looks. It's smoothed out inside and I know the welds don't look the greatest, but they work. You can do it another way I thought of. Split(make a Y) the 5" into two 2.5 or 3" and run them on both sides of the motor. It MIGHT work but the Y will have to be almost right off the turbo. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

I'll get pics guys...I'm leaving as soon as I finish typing this message to go home for the holiday and I'll take some. Just the downpipe?

No the size of a Crossover Pipe affects the spool time. Think about it...You have a 2 gallons of air and you put one gallon in a 3/4 gallon container and one gallon in 1/2 gallon container. Which one is going the have more pressure? Pressure makes the turbo spool. More pressure the faster spool. This is why guys that can't get their turbos to spool block half (or partial) of the turbo flange off, but it hurts their top end. Then the butterflies came about. http://www.spracingonline.com/store/Sound_Performance_Quick_Spool_Valve/3643 http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=45148.0

3"= bigger area = more exhaust to build pressure=less spool It would be benificial at a higher rpm though. A 350 isn't a wise choice for 3" crossover. Besides unless you cut the flange off those headers ( it's roughly 2.5") it wouldn't benifit you anyway.

Blowthroughs don't work Is your water/meth kit from AIS (Alcohol Injection Systems)? What turbos are you running? I'm shooting for about 1100 FWHP for my next sbc that I'm building now.

It is 2.5"

I found some more pics that I didn't know was taken. The 3160 was without the hood and me in it. I weigh 210

They say UP TO 98% efficiency on there website so I'm guessing they're talking about ambient temp/inlet temp. My guess is that they used an inter cooler at a low boost setting. Efficiency will go down with the more boost you apply due to boyle's law(compressed air creates heat) because inter coolers can only take out so much heat. I compared the C38 which max flow is 952.9 cfm to the smallest procharger (C1) with max flow of 1000 cfm. You also see that max impeller rpm is 90,000 on the C38 while the C1 is 80,000 and still produces more cfm. I'm not going to say which one I think is better because my opinion would be bias. You can look at the numbers and decide yourself. However, prochargers use straight cut gears in their transmissions which make them very screechy at idle the reduced noise of the rotrex is appealing. When we tune my brother-in-laws f1-r motor you have to wear ear plugs unless you don't mind hearing loss when the hood is up. It sounded cool at first but after a while it gets annoying just like putting a loud exhaust on your car. efficiency- http://www.procharger.com/intercooled.shtml procharger specs- http://www.procharger.com/models.shtml rotrex C38 specs- http://www.rotrex.com/pdfs/Rotrex_Technical_Datasheet_C38_Range_V4.0.pdf

Three threads that I Found. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129378 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136423 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130372&highlight=supercharged

Where is the wastegate located, how much boost is it set for, and did you hook your air compressor up to it to see if it would open (regulated by a valve of course)?

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=74644.0 You'll find a couple guys compare supercharger vs. turbo at same boost, same engine, ect. It does take SOME power to run a turbo, but not near as much as a supercharger.

I can't find the write up right now which the dyno sheets where in but a guy tested how much horsepower it took to run an F1-r. He took off the belt and ran the motor NA and put the belt on and dynoed the motor and there was 140hp difference. That was wheel horsepower as well. Obviously the bigger the supercharger and the rpms you turn it the more power it will take to turn it. Steve Morris who is a big Procharger guy just switched over to turbos not too long ago because of the huge amount of torque they can produce over the superchargers. Like dr. hunt said as well, superchargers are not cheap. I wanted to put an F2 on my next blowthrough motor until I found out the front mount systems are around 6 grand. Then if something happens to them it's around a 1000 fix at minimum and you HAVE to send them to procharger, where as any GOOD diesel shop can repair your turbo. I'm going with a s480 for the new motor and will have alot less than 6 grand in the WHOLE motor. Turbos can get just as expensive though if you don't know what you're doing and have to pay someone to do it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/60MM-Wastegate-V-BAND-2JZGTE-7MGTE-RB26-Adjustable_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem270299441303QQitemZ270299441303QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories You can find them cheaper from other sellers. The cheapest I've seen is 129+shipping.

No. Just make sure your return in the pan is lower than the turbo. Just as long there is a slight gradient towards the pan when the car is sitting normal you'll be fine. Mine is about 1/2" and a -12an return line helps too. Make sure the Return in the pan is above the oil level in the pan also.

The only pictures I think I got of the down pipe are on page three of this thread. I'm at college right now or else I'd take some pictures for you. It's not that hard and it only took me an afternoon to do the exhaust. A buddy would make it go quicker and less stressfull as I only had a jackstand. I'll take some pictures when I go home next which might be this weekend.

This is where I bought mine, cheapest I found. http://stores.ebay.com/Mandrel-Bending-Solutions

I bought 4" oval tubing and two transition pieces. 5" to 4" right off turbo followed by a 90 4" with a 4" to 4" oval UNDER the crossmember the whole way to differential then back to 4" tubing with a 45* and a 4" straight trough magnaflow diesel truck muffler. Keep it tight to the car and it won't scrape.

If your going to make some power out of a stock block you should read through the block castings to see if you have a good OEM block or not. And yes you'll only save about five hundred bucks with a stock block compared to the sportsman block that dart offers. This is for the guys that want to keep there stock block. Besides, Dart only rates their sportsman block to 600hp anyways. Some site references: -These figures were aquired from a Super Chevy magazine, Popular Hot Rodding, and a couple local machine shops http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/SBCinfo.html I just found this site and thought it would be really useful for people.

I have stock gabriel struts up front and it gives me about 6 inches of front end travel. I have stock struts in the back and I put rubber bushings (they are buick suspension bushings) on the struts to absorb the force and limit the squat. I have the squat set so that the half shafts are level as possible. This is what JNJ told me and I just played with it alittle. I think they are using 87 century strut absorbers that they cut down. These two videos was leaving on low boost, but you can see how it hooks up and the front end travel. I just watched the videos to see what my car needed which I think you should do. With that same setup I got some balls and left at higher boost and it pulled the wheels about 6 inches.

Yea, I've heard several guys say that the radials don't like the initial shock like leaving off a brake or a big shot of nitrous but they do work well on turbos like you said. For some reason I thought you tested the ET streets in that video. What rpm do you guys cross at? I have a 26" radials and 3.54 gears and cross around 7000 at 141. I'm building a new 388 sbc and getting a turbo upgrade and I don't think the zx is going to get this engine because I don't want to rev over 7500 crossing. Been thinking about getting a lock up converter or trying to squeeze a 28" radial but I don't think a bigger tire would look good. I just need something with similar setup (gearing and tire)to reference too as I'm in the research and development stage again. On another note thanks for the help from posting info on your suspension. I think I got it tuned in well. I have alot of front suspension travel and putt some rubber stops in the rear. I haven't spun yet and amazingly the front wheels seen some daylight only leaving at 6 pounds. I think you'll really like your turbo setup. I love my turbo setup right now. They have so much potential! Will you be using efi or carb? Thanks, Dustin

I'm sorry. I thought you were in need of press fit. Here are full floating. You might find a set cheaper. Its all up on what you want to spend. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SBC-5-7-SCAT-4340-CONNECTING-RODS-CHEVY-GM-350_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ380073389103

Look on ebay for scat rods. You can find them for around the price of the rods you're looking at. Just a suggestion. I try to stay away from parts like that because not enough people use them for good feedback and the only thing you have to go by is the company's word. Besides it's only 20 bucks more with shipping probably for a reputable rod. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Scat-Forged-I-beam-Rods-Small-Block-Chevy-5-7-35700P_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ280237107701

I've got questions about the wastegate and BOV. I got them off ebay (tial knockoffs). They are XO2 Racing. The only thing bad I've heard about them is that they need a lock nut on the diaphram (10-32mm I think) and that the diaphrams broke or warped on some guys. Alot of guys are using them with no problems at all. The good thing is that you can put tial internals in them and basically have a tial wastegate for alot less. I haven't had any trouble with my wastegate or BOV. That is wth the 50mm BOV and the 60mm BLUE wastegate. Remember its the BIG BLUE wastegate and not the BIG PURPLE wastegate.