mjfawke

Hmmmmmmmmmm........ MOTEC If only I had the money...

The RB25DET non-VVT head is a straight bolt on, the VVT head need a little work, but an RB20DE head requires significant welding of the water ports in the head.

Note the dust from the window when the car hits the wall? I'm thinking airbag...

He's right, actually. The 69-70 crankshaft (not fully counter-weighted) used to shake the clutches apart and were very unreliable. But even the fully counterweighted cranks used to be changed after each race because the would bend. The factory race teams would run qualifying with the crank from the previous race, then would put a new crank in before the race... So - Nissan used to win, but they had a very short life on some of the engine components.

A friend of mine had a offset crash with a closing speed of approximately 160km/h in his 260 2+2, after the other car went around a bend too quickly in the wet. His passenger walked away, he broke a kneecap on the dash. The other driver was seriously injured.

You guys don't know when you are on to a good thing... Let's see... $1.21 per litre, 3.7854 lt per US gallon, exchange rate at around $0.79 per Au dollar... That makes is ~ $3.61 per gallon in Australia. As my car only gets 23.4 Mpg... perhaps I should turn the boost down.

$50,100 and counting....

After running AdAware, SpyBot S&D and installing AVG.... install Firefox.

Nope - engines which have never been apart are turning up with loose screws.

Apparently some machining needs to be carried out for the JUN mod. There is also a lot of discussion about the screws in the oil pump coming loose, leading to fluctuating oil pressure followed suddenly by no oil pressure - some insist that this is a result of vibrations caused by the R32 oil pump drive, but I suspect there is more to the story.

People in Japan might not be into the RB30 motors, but the RB25/26 head onto RB30 bottom end is a common build here now for Skylines. The rev limit is a little lower, but the extra capacity is well worth it. Most of these guys are getting around 1000hp reliably. There is at least one Z is Australia with an RB25/RB30 combo with twin turbos (black coupe in Sydney). I know of another motor being built for a Z at the moment (Canberra). There is also at least one Z running an RB30ET, still with the stock manifold. So clearance is not that much of an issue.

Around here, they installed combined red light/speed cameras. Needless to say, big increase in accidents at traffic lights, as everyone drops at least 10kph (6mph) as they approach the lights. Too slow to get through the lights before they turn red, so everyone tries to stop. I HATE the damed things.

The S20 was also fitted to the PS30, otherwise known as the Z432. It's a 2lt sports racing engine, rare as hens teeth and worth an absolute fortune. The closest replacement in the 6 cyl class would be the RB20DE engine...

Yes - strong motor, but the pistons will not tolerate any detonation.

As per the original question, I guess it would be O.K. as long as you leave the locating dowel in place, but I'd dummy up the head on the block and check the cam rotation to be sure.

What do you mean by "twisting"? And what rubber are you referring to? The 'B' series box in a 280ZX has a gearstick with two nylon bushes in the hole in the gearstick, and a nylon cup on the end. These are the only non-metal parts involved in the geartick mechanism, and are the only parts which wear. On the 'A' series gearbox used rubber bushes for the gearstick... As for your second gear problem - the syncro is rooted. This is a common problem with gearboxes - second gear gets the most use.

I used to use teflon tape, then I switched to the Loctite non-hardening teflon pipe sealant. It's also the recommended one in the Carroll Smith "Prepare to Win" book... or was it his fasteners/plumbing book? One of the two, anyway.

Is there a technical question here?

Was there much work in getting it to fit? Does you car take the tall or short radiator? Where does the bottom rad hose go? Is the part number on the radiator AACF 3116?

The temp sender is compatible (the RB20DET one is, so I assume RB25/RB26 will be the same), and the early 240's use an inductive pickup tacho which can be made to work with the RB engine by looping the power feed to the ignitor through the pickup on the back of the tacho.

I can't believe people are bidding on it.... Then again, some kid turned up at one of the better shops in Aus and wanted a blowoff valve fitted to his NA car...

Some good news - the lower boot that seals the gearstick to the top of the gearbox is replaceable without changing the whole gearstick. According to the guys who supplied the gearstick, the hole in the top of the rubber boot is flexible enough that the replacement boot can be slid down the stick and over the ~ 30mm rubber isolation section without tearing. I have a new boot on order... should arrive monday. Also - there are supposed to be a variety of different gearsticks which fit the GTST gearboxes, and some have different angles. Something to look into further... the current gearstick (R32) is incompatible with the centre console.