bubbleguinea

did you ever dyno the old setup? you need to throw this one on to compare! sometimes i kinda wondered what would happen if you took an LD intake, cut the runners off almost parallel with the head, then cut the rest of it off of the main plenum, then welded the plenum to those runners, placed the injectors on the top...it'd be a cheap alternative to the stock Z-car intake.... hmmmmmm get some better videos!

bryan, does MSA not have any in stock anymore??? call precision if they dont, they make everything.... i got mine a long time ago through MSA...including those little wierd ones at the top corner of the door....and the MSA ones had welting....

sooo i had an ipifany tonight while i was drinking the hiney mini-keg.... i want fender flares, the ZG ones like austin has. the problem (mental) that i am having is that the 2+2 is wider than the coupe (in the back). right now, all 4 tires rub (225/50/16) and its getting bad enough to where my sidewalls are all chewed up. i want a flare, but im nervous that the ZG's on my car with the sport max will look wierd...im afraid that the wheel wont come out far enough... so what do yall think? should i do it or not? you can see in my sig that as of now, the front actually are right at the edge, but the rears sit in just a tad....anyone have any pictures of a 2+2 with ZG flares with stock rims or the wheels i am running???? yea or nea on flares?

change my name!!! i shudder to think about what it would be :- ive been meaning to donate....i need to get my paypal account working again...

uhhhhh holy crap. that is so damn good looking. id be scared to ride it if i hadnt fallen allready... there are two kinds of bikers : ones that have fallen, and ones that are going to fall.... better get your fall in before riding that!

its been a lot higher---this was on an open stretch of I75 N up near Tenn. border felt nice and stable to be honest---didnt scare me a bit

hahah this is really funny.... send me a PM...my friend recently bought a nice little Z31 with headers, FULL maganaflow exhaust, ypipe and everything....the only thing that was installed was the headers and ypipe... well, it didnt have the injector recall (we found out lateR) and the car caught fire and burned to the ground... so we have a set of headers and a ypipe...the paint is striped, but they still work!!! they are from MSA i believe, ill have to ask him

timing my car recently, at 3k rpm, the engine revs up and down...anything about 2.7k rpm actually... checked sds systems, my duty cycle is constant, then when the car sputters, it goes to 0 percent. what would cause this? im leaning towards bad ground...all other sensors are GREEN and good... i was thinking bad spark, but my tach signle is good to go too.... anythoughts? ive got everything grounded to two different grounds...and im talking 5 different things... i might run a seperate ground and try to isoloate it..if that doesnt work, im going to borrow a friends injector/cap/rotor/wires and see if that fixes it, but i dont think it will... the only thing that messes with injector pulse width is power, and the numbers plugged in....and the numbers are all good too... any help guys?

hahahah....yeah...but something about copying somebody else's setup... i think ill just use my SDS to be different

i dont even think very impressive explains it....more like insane... then again, the only fast turbo car ive driven was my own 86' 300XZT...i did like being in boost but it wasnt anything compared to that.... in the 300ZXT. it was like: 65..........70...............78..........81...........84mph quite depressing

go to somewhere that sells coyles timing kits.... they make them, and ANYONE can order them... i'd give you the part number, but im at home

i dont think i can explain how jealous i am....i need money, a turbo charger, and an exhaust manifold, and i think i'd be on my way to something like that...... thats just sick stepping back and seein how my NA makes power, and then seeing that video...makes me wish i had a turbo *sigh*

my dd is a 280Z all year round the orange crush is all i have---i need to stop drag racing it so much before something expensive breaks

correct: STOCK brake systems do NOT ALLOW for vented rotors the DO allow a better designed SOLID rotor, with slots or drill holes in them...but some people say no to drilled, some say yes... all depends on HOW its drilled. personally, i just used my craftsman drill in the vice

yes...they are cooling vaynes to direct the air it between the rotor... THOSE would be useful in brake cooling for our cars....a slotted or drilled rotor is very "fishy" about working....controversial is the word i was looking for

ryan..jon thought you meant VENTED, i.e. veins inbetween two sides of the rotor...i.e. thicker rotor... you're talking about cross-drilled rotors, or slotted... the powersolts are like $45 a piece *i think* (we sell them at work, and i've looked into it) i dont know of any other companies that make them, other than the ones MSA sells, plus the ones on ebay...but i would be worried about the metallurgy of them, being from china and all (plus they are cadmium plated!)

uhhh---Paul, whats this going on? i still say 16's over 17's anyday...just keep looking at my car

yeah, SDS datalogs...didnt ever use it though...we used the dyno's wideband readout when tuning it

i thought you were going to tune it on the street ??????

i think he knows that

mid-90s chevy G series (van) they use a different kind of material inside the o2 that does the sensing...supposed to work better and last longer... to make it easy, a 1998 Chevy G1500 try to go to Orilley or PartsPlus

is it a shark fin over water?

yeah ron you are right....however--- i would NOT recommend BOSCH o2 sensors....... unfortunalty napa still sells them, however most stores sell oxtra or standard sensors reboxed in some bosh boxes... for some reason, bosh o2's suck.... standard (fed. mog) and oxtra make GREAT sensors...

yeah...ive got one....

a 4 wire is heated O2 sensor... most of the time a standard GM universal sensor...three wires most of the time are NOT universal....they have specific plugs for specific applications.... one goes to sensor one goes to power and two go to ground i believe most uni's are one black, one white, and two grey the black is the sensor, the white is the power, and greys are ground..... ***im not 100% sure, i forget this stuff easily.***