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Everything posted by EZ-E
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Im with Mikelly, cant see owning it as a 2+2, just isnt worth it, on another note though I just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance;o)
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HAH, I remember my first time at the track with my ZXT, I was first up against about a 74 corvette, looked nice had side pipes was really loud. We pulled up to the lights, I wave and give a thumbs up, the guy looks to me and puts a thumbs up then turns them down. I was like how ignorant, well none of that matteres as even though I spun first hard, kicked second, missed third and finally into fourth, at the end of the track I still beat him by 1.3 seconds. That was before I did any real mods, after being a little modified I went again, not saying much as it was only a 98 Ford Cobra, but I thought it was funny as the guy was really cool, after we pulled back into the lanes, he goes, " Wow that thing really goes, you and I were close till you hit 3rd, then all I saw was your tail lights." I really enjoyed hearing that comment. Trust me once you start making power you are just dying for more, and you want and want and want. Glad your enjoying your new found glory.
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Goto http://www.speedshopthagard.com, you can see some the the pics of James Thagards setup with twin turbos. Im sure he would help you out with some ideas as well, this man is amazing with his knowledge and workmanship.
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I agree with Norm on the weber down drafts. I had them and with proper tuning from a VW guru that is used to those on many a VW motor, he finally told me that I sould go with another carburetor as these just are working well enough to get the car just right. While they will work and they will make the car run fairly well, they arent really good for a Z. Id get myself some used SU's and rebuild them. Good luck.
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Now them thar parts look really purrty, seriously though, looks great, good work!!
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Not sure on the difference myself, I do know that if you had a R200, like I had in my ZX, all you would have to do is take the flange from your peg leg R200, off and put it on the LSD for your stock drive shaft to work. The bolt pattern is larger on the Z31 LSD snout. Not sure if the R180 is the same though as the R200, I would want to say yes as a lot of people upgrade from an R180 to an R200.
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I like your last one there Matt, "Hybrid Z, where imagination meets engineering." Now that really sounds good!!! I was thinking of one like "Hybrid Z, where true power meets the road."
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Haltechs E6A, is it a good EMS for the Z? Anyone have any experience with this Haltech unit, pros or cons from this unit?> Thanks
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does the z31 to 280zxt swap have to be a turbo z31 chopper wheel?
EZ-E replied to big-phil's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
The chopper wheel itself is the same wether from a turbo or N/A motor. -
Well Im sure that you know this but Ill just reitterate to be certain, have you properly adjusted your rear brakes? That will help substantially with the braking and with the parking brake. The rear whells should have a slight bit of drag once assembled after adjustment. Im not sure as I cant really recall if the parking brake cable on the 240z has an adjustment, if it does have you adjusted your cable? There may be slack and that could be the reason for you having to pull so far to get the ebrakes to engage. They should come on pretty tight at about 65% of the throw of the ebrake handle. As for stopping power there are several different pads that you can use that work well with the drum brakes. You didnt mention whether or not if you replaced the drums as well, you may want to check to see if they are still in spec, and are not worn to the point that there isnt enough metal inside for the brakes to grab hold of. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
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does the z31 to 280zxt swap have to be a turbo z31 chopper wheel?
EZ-E replied to big-phil's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
There is a complete FAQ in the turbo section about this swap with several questions and answers, Im sure if you search there you will find the answer your looking for. -
Does anyone use or has anyone ever tried EMS's units, the new Stinger 4 unit looks pretty decent for the price. http://www.ptrsds.com/ems_stinger_4424.htm
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That most of you agree that it is either the ACT clutch or the SPEC clutches, well from what Ive been looking at I like the SPECS more then the ACT's. Im thinking that this clutch would be more then enough for what I need at this time. Here are the specs, its from Nipponpower.com SPCSN322 Stage 2 - 450lb Torque 74-78 Nissan 280Z, ZX 2.8 2+2 81-83 Nissan 280Z, ZX 2.8 Turbo 84-89 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 Non-Turbo 84-86 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 Turbo $287.10/ea Seems like a hell of a price too? How would this do for my dailey driver ZXT with about 300hp/350 torque? Anyone used this specific clutch? Also from my searches I have found that some have changed clutch masters and slaves with a smaller slave and a larger CM, can anyone explain the benefits of this or why? Are the stocker parts not up to capacity? Ive found that most of the talk was with the stocker slaves not being up to the task of the job with stronger PP's. Thanks for any help and or more information that you can give to me on this.
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So then the question begs to be answered, on a high hp l series motor, do you really need the additional spark from the MSD units? Would that be a no to what you have found out here Jeff?
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wow she is very talented. I think that is a great job, I cant imagine my girl doing that shes like oh, working, cleaning, waxing the car again are we. lol Awesome job
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That was definetly good, Im with 240hoke Id love to see his whole act, it was pretty damn great.
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If the set up is the same which I believe it is, I would go with Peter Allnets fuel rail, I cant be sure it is but I think it is more then likely the same. If you do a quick search on fuel rails there was a thread just started a few days ago, about aftermarket fuel rails, I left his email and site there.
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Strong missfires and stumble: Valves? Ign control?
EZ-E replied to Tekira's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Well first let me say this, if you are getting a backfire through the carbs, that usually indicates a lean condition. Second, what are your plugs telling you? Are they carbon fouled, white and burning hot? Do you smell fuel on them? Your plugs will tell you a lot of how your car is running, I would start there to find out what is causing your problem first, before throwing money at it. It will save you a headache and also keep your pockets a bit heavier. -
Im sure I could cut the trim from around the t-top and seal it so that it would not leak and would still be functional, as well as remove the bpillar trim, but what is left is the heavy stainless ring around the windshield. I wouldnt know how to replace that with something smaller or something that doesnt stick out as much if you get what Im trying to say. I love the lines of my ZX, I would just like the spots that stick out to flow more, kind of like what a lot do to the S30, removing the drip rail, and smoothing out the lines from front to back. Just makes for me at least, a cleaner looking car.
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I agree, his products are well tested before leaving him to assure proper working part. I would go with Petes rail, you can email him at pallnet@hotmail.com about his rail. Here is his website http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/
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See that is what I am talking about, I would like to make it more flush, getting rid of the heavy chrome trim line and the little one above the Bpillar cover. Being that it has Ttops Im thinking that I will have a hard time trying to complete this, and in the end if I do find something that works well, it will end up looking like the Z31's B pillar. Not to mention that the stainless ring around the windshield, is also tied into the whole lot and it would be hard to change that as well to anything that would look nice on the car. Decisions decisions.
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The newer maximax, above I believe 95 or something like that have 125 amp alternators but I dont believe those will bolt up. That is where you will run into a problem.
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There is a connection of plastic that goes to the inside of the car behind the panel were a bolt and a 10mm nut hold the piece onto the car. The area behind is not flush metal.
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Yeah I know what your saying if you noticed it is also a 2k, I would think he misplaced somethign for sure and that it is either not here or a scam. It is a nice looking car though .
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See that is what I am saying if it is like flattened it looks out of place. If it was a slick top Im sure it would be much easier to take care of and make to look more unilateral, but it is proving difficult. I do like the line of my ZX it is just that the B pillars seem to be so out of place on the car like it was an after thought. There has to be a way to blend it together. Like 260DET said, "that bit of SS trim does look out of place and the chrome trim above the door goes nowhere." I totally agree with this statement. Maybe something will come up keep the ideas coming and thanks for all your ideas so far.