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This is one of those things that make you say, yeah, just to good to be true. http://www.collectorcarads.com/addetail.asp?CarID=16714

I dont know about most, but for me the Bpillar stainless on the ZX to me is very gawdy and I really dont care for it. Mine did have the plastic, which someone was so nice o to rip off for me. So I had purchased some of the stainless covers for that area instead. Painted them a satinblack, and well they look decent but still the whole scheme of it is out of place. Its like something that doesnt belong on the car, but when removed the area really looks like crap to put it in a light term. Without them it looks ugly with them it looks ugly. So I was thinking if anyone has any sort of photoshop skills, that could possibly help, or well also in this sense looking for ideas of how to fill that area and still look good without having to have that piece on the car. I was thinking of molding a piece of metal into that area, to blend the car together there as looking to be one solid piece instead of something that can be removed, as i said before, a flat piece there doesnt seem to fit the bill. The other thing im looking at as well is and I dont think that I can do much with this is the drip rail sort of that is attached to the t-tops, I would like it to look more flush if I could. Any suggestions anyone or some constructive critisms? Thanks.

WOW!!!!!!!!! I cannot believe the rust and all the fiberglass on that car, unbelievable, but you went and took it on and it looks like it is really coming along very well, I must say great work on the car that you have done, its sure to be something very nice when you are finished with it. I also would like to compliment you on your videos they were a joy to watch. Good luck and keep the updates coming I cant wait to see the end of this project.

Yeah it doesnt, I love the wheels on that car they look really great

Since when was pornographic material allowed here lol, man what a collection those Ferraris are gorgeous and that BMW

Thats what I saw, it looked like he was to worried about being passed instead of focusing on the task at hand which was driving that course. It did look a bit scary

Something else that had just crossed my mind though is that the 240SX that most swap this engine into is basically the same weight as the ZX, so I cant see why it wouldnt work, concidering there are some very fast 240SX's around .

Nice little video, sounds good as long as it doesnt idle, that Ansa tip makes it sound like a cricket. Love the look and she sure sounds good though.

For the cash if I could get them they would be on my car, by far to me one of the best looking wheels out there. On your vehicle I think they would look fantastic to say the least.

I guess im the only one here that got the KPGC10 Skyline GT-R in GT 2, you have to really go to the Nissan dealer every 10 days when they get new vehicles, but if you do you will have that car as well. Its not to bad either, I think you can max it out at about 345 hp and it does have a turbo option for it, and in race trim it looks pretty mean. As others have said, there is a white and maroon 240ZG as well plus the Z32's that are avaialable. Also forgot to mention if you just like a fun racing game, you might want to check out Burnout3 Takedown, really fun racing game, lots of tracks, tons of cars, racing, taking out your competition, crash pileups, loads of fun.

It does depend on if your doing the work or not and you have the ability to weld and cut and make most of it yourself you can get it done a lot cheaper then you would pay someone. As a matter of fact it will cost you more if you go stainless but it will also last forever, basically. You can do a single aluminized for much cheaper but then again how long will it last. Parts and material for my 3inch mandrel bent exhaust on the ZX was only112 dollars, all mild steel mind you. I know that I will have to eventually replace the DP, but that was my choice at the time. If you want a good quality lasting exhaust you will pay for it.

That is well said no oil will do anything if it isnt changed, along with the filter mind you. I will say this though, I know i wont have to worry about oil flow this winter, because the synthetic will not freeze up and turn to honey at 10 below like conventional will.

Mine isnt new off the showroom floor but so far its only cost me a little bit more then 5k for the whole car and what Ive done and I know it does the quarter mile in that time.

Well from what he says that is the one, you or I could call to verify this, I think the pirce is pretty cheap if it is the correct size. Ive been told by a couple places locally that they cant find the correct one. I think they just dont care to look because the money they are making isnt that great.

Actually if you take a Fram filter apart, either the extra gaurd or the tough gaurd you will see that the filter media is held together by glued piece of cardboard to the aformentioned. To me I havent seen a cheaper made filter in my life. Now on that note I use Motorcraft filters, which is really strange they there filters are better concidering they basically come from the same company. As we all know Ford owns Motorcraft, Autolite, Fram and the list goes on.

Im still trying to find the same thing that you are looking for, when my driveshaft joints finally snapped, and it IS going to be hard to find. I cant remember but if you goodle for slip yokes there is a place out in california, that specializies. He told my one could be had depending on the seal size for 88 dollars or 148 dollars. They are out there just hard to find, it is a 24 spline count based on 26. meaning 24 splines, and two opposite each other cut out. You would think that since the Z31 tranny is numerically the same that it would work dont you. Think again, Its a 22 based on 24 spline count. Which to me is really dicky, I dont know why Nissan made a tranny for one year that you cant get anything for. It does kind of piss you off as well because 400 for an aluminum driveshaft from MSA for any other transmission less the BW T-5, which is 800 I believe. I was trying to find it on google but I cant seem to remember how I looked the company up. Im sure if you search for custome driveshafts and slip yokes you may find it. Good luck!! If you do find a suitable slip yoke, I would definetly be interested, being stranded at the track because your ujoints snapped leaves a bit to be desired. Edit: Well you had my mind working on this again so I started to search once again, and if they guy that I talked to is correct with what he is saying and understood me completely Ive found a source in florida that sells them for use with the 1310 ujoint for 52.60. Now this is what got me, he says that this slip yoke is also used by Nissan still but in the 240sx!! The 24 based on 26 count!! Imagine that, well here is the site and the number to contact him, person I spoke to was Mark. http://www.pstds.com Percision Shaft Technologies 1-888-575-7888 Mark Open Mon-Thurs. 8am-5:30pm

Why would you want to when the SR box is just as strong if not a bit stronger?

Hmm I agree with the feature part, I think, well my opinion would be "Feature Z" of the month. ?

Its all a personal preference, actually. Me personally for the cost involved you could build yourself a turbo motor or a V-8, get the same hp almost out of the box with certain V-8s, or a boosted turbo, and not have as much into it. What some failed to mention as well, if you are going to use triple carbs, then jetting can start to cost a bundle too as the jets and tubes arent that cheap. When I got my 280ZX turbo, all I did was go with 2.25 inch tubing, new ic, FPR and boosted to 15 psi. On all stock components and engine, I was able to net 13.4 1/4 mile times. Not bad for a motor with 200k on the clock.

I think Mikelly said it best with what he just described. No matter what the argument, there is nothing that can prove that synthetic isnt better. That is fact and not fiction, in all aspects synthetic is a better oil. The use and need for it though seems to be of concern, and like I said before MIkelly is right in the fact that it depends on the use. In my turbo it is all i will use, I use the M1 15/50w. In the new 325 it gets M1 0/40w, and like Mikelly said in the Honda beater, it gets 1.19 Mobil 10/30w. Now what I dont see is where everyone is getting all these "HIGH" prices from. At Wal-Mart, 5 quart jug of M1 costs me 19.95. So it really isnt that expensive at all.

That was the really great thing about the ARE's wheel, they had a very nice lip to them.

I think its a good idea and we would even have cars worth featuring:)

They are one in the same, now I dont know of theyre service, at a local store, or the like, but at least dealing with them over the phone and online, they were very professional. As I said before, never had one problem at all with them. For instance my brother bought a set of tires from them, he found a metal shive in the road, only two days after getting his tires. Completely flat and destroyed tire, they had a new one out to him the next day, no questions asked. This has been my experience with them, you can at least get one free set of tires too:D

Enkie used to make a similar wheel like that and they really look great on Z's, the thing is they are no longer available, but you can still find them. I think its a great choice of wheel.