Cable

Maybe I am not reaching high enough on the pdeal arm under the dash..... I plan on swapping to a brake pedal from an automatic car (soon as I find one) so I'll make sure its connected then.

Here's my latest addition... Brutus, my Great Pyrenees puppy. We got him at 10 weeks, he is 6 months old now. The last two pics are taken with his 12 week old kitten, they are best friends.

I've already read the 'sticky' on it, I doubt I have any issues with it, but won't know for sure until I actually drive the car...

The master cylinder was the problem as I suspected. Against my better judgment I replaced it with a reman unit after going to 3 different parts stores and ordering a new unit only to get a call a day later that they couldn't get a new unit afterall from their suppliers at the prices quoted. So I went ahead and bought a reman unit and crossed my fingers. If it fails it has a lifetime warranty, but if it does fail I will prob just bite the bullet for a brand new piece instead of having to swap out a master cylinder every so often, even if it does cost me $150+ for a brand new one. Thanks guys!!

I thought the same thing, but there is no hole in the pedal arm for a pin to slide through. I think I came up with a temp solution anyway by sticking a 5/16's bolt through the space between the 'U' shaped piece and the pedal arm. Its taking up 99% of the slack and was easy. The master cylinder was the problem as I suspected. Against my better judgment I replaced it with a reman unit after going to 3 different parts stores and ordering a new unit only to get a call a day later that they couldn't get a new unit afterall from their suppliers at the prices quoted. So I went ahead and bought a reman unit and crossed my fingers. If it fails it has a lifetime warranty, but if it does fail I will prob just bite the bullet for a brand new piece instead of having to swap out a master cylinder every so often, even if it does cost me $150+ for a brand new one.

Hey guys, last week I was having a master cylinder bypassing internally. Yesterday it was swapped out, bench bled, and all 4 corners were re-bled as well in the correct order. However I noticed that I have a decent amount of pedal travel before I would get any resistance. I thought it might be the adjustable pushrod in the booster between the booster and master cylinder. It did need some adjustment to make it a tad longer, it didn't solve the slop issue. Next I decided to look under the dash and quickly found the issue. The pedal arm swings back and forth to and from the firewall. There is also a rod that the pedal arm pushes on to the booster to work the brakes when the pedal is depressed. There is about a 1" gap between the 'U' shaped end of the rod and the pedal arm before the pedal arm even touches the 'U' shaped end. So, how is this adjusted or what to I do about it? Thanks guys!!

My master cylinder has bleeders on the unit itself. I have bled the master cylinder three times using those bleeders and some tubing looped back into the reservoir. No air bubbles have come out since the first time. I know the master cylinder is pushing fluid because I do have fluid coming out of the bleeders on each corner, but it could still be bypassing internally. I think I am going to buy another master cylinder, but I wanted to hear other opinions before I blow another $60 on a part that I may not need on a project that has already exceeded its budget. Thanks for the replies guys.

Hey guys, I picked up my '75 280z in late June 2009 as a non-runner. It has been sitting for the previous 3+ years. When going through my engine bay prior to my LSx swap in early July I removed the master cylinder to avoid getting paint on it. On Monday earlier this week I re-installed the master cylinder, installed Russell Speed Bleeders on all 4 corners, and added new fluid and began the bleeding process starting with the master cylinder itself, then the pass rear bleeder, driver rear bleeder, pass front bleeder, and finally driver front bleeder. After getting all the air out of the system I am still having issues with getting the brakes to work. The pedal gives me some resistance vs when I first started bleeding the system, but still goes to the floor, even if I pump the pedal repeatedly with all the bleeders closed. I have since re-bled the system 4 times since, including the master cylinder, and I even tried using a vacuum pump and gravity bleeding. No changes. I haven't driven the car yet but I have inspected the pads and shoes and they look great. The rear drums are adjusted correctly as well. So this leaves me thinking that the master cylinder could be bad. I figure it might be bypassing internally since it doesn't leak a drop, thoughts on this? Thanks guys!!

I have the Lincoln Mark VIII fan in my Z with the LSx swap. I have about 2" between the fan's widest point (motor) and the water pump pulley. If you guys want some pics, just let me know and I'll snap some.

Looking good Mike!! Is that the 350 I sold you last Summer? If so, if I had known it was a 4 bolt main I would of hiked up that price over $100, ha!! j/k As far as your cam selection, Lunati's new Voodoo line is top notch. I've run several of them now, including the one in BBZ and LSZ. Anyway, if you are planning on just running the stock torque converter this cam will do nicely: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60103 However, if you run a small stall converter in the 2200-2500 (w/lockup) range: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60104 Hope that helps!!

I got the filler neck taken care of on Saturday, but thanks anyway. I tried calling/txt you on Sunday and Monday, no reply. I could use some of your wire 'looming' skills to clean up my rats nest of wires in the engine bay though. Anytime you wanna come by, just let me know (ASAP). I am really trying to see if I can get it moving by Friday night so I can at least limp it over to Sonic, we'll see though.

Started right up yesterday, 40 psi at idle, very responsive even with the larger cam. I didn't like how the stock DBW pedal was going to work in the car so I cut off most of the DBW pedal, cut up the stock Datsun gas pedal, and welded everything back up. I also welded on a plate that allows me to bolt the DBW assembly to the firewall using the original 3 bolt holes that held the stock Datsun pedal to the firewall. Although the pics don't show it, I drilled the three holes using the stock plate as a template and it bolted right up, no problems, and looks stock unless you are on your back looking up the dash. So, what do you guys think?

Finished today, not too shabby for $15 worth of ABS, rubber couplers, and clamps....

I had my stock 5.3 harness modified by http://www.wait4meperformance.com . It cost me $350 for the stand-alone conversion and PCM re-tune with free re-tunes in the future incase you change cams, gears, etc, etc. My headers are the ceramic coated 1 5/8's custom Sanderson headers sold through JTR.

My custom built intake is almost completed, just need to build a small bracket to hang my huge cone K&N air cleaner.

Does anyone have any updates to this question? Thanks!!

So does anyone else carry the R200 Power Brute anymore?

Although the ITB's are nice eye candy, they are also uber pricey. Plus I've heard from folks that have them say that they aren't so nice under 3000 RPM and cold mornings. If it were me, I'd stick with the factory style induction with a LS6 intake. How much power are do you want to make? How high do you want to spin it? Any forced induction planned? Just a 'bar napkin' build using some of what you already have, I'd keep the ported 5.3 heads after a 5 angle valve job, bore the LS1 block just enough to clean it up (i.e. 0.010"), get the deck squared, line honing the mains wouldn't be a bad idea either, buy a set forged pistons (Diamond, JE/SRP, CP, etc) that'll give you at least 10:1, if not 11:1 compression, and SCAT makes a nice set of 4340 I-Beams with ARP 8740 7/16" cap-screws for under $300. Your stock crank is good to 800+HP. If you want to make your LS1 into a 383, a 4.00" SCAT stroker crank will make that easy for under $700. As far as your cam, I'd go with the Lunati Voodoo 60511 (.567/.567", 222/228 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) with the stock 3.62" stroke and the 60512 (.599/.601", 232/238 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) if you went with the 4.00" stroker crank. Also, ARP main and head bolts are nice piece of mind in a performance engine, plus the ARP head bolts are reusable, stock TTY bolts are not. Stock stroke will make an easy 375HP to the wheels, a stroker will only add to that making more HP/TQ everywhere.

The Walbro is fairly quiet compared to something like Holley Red/Blue/Black pumps. All LSx swap headers offered by JTR and JCI are shortys/block huggers. My JTR's have a 3" collector. I have no idea and I won't know until I have it dyno'd (not even planned). You might have a hard time beating your pops even after your Comp XR281 cam swap in your 5.3. Z51's run 12.4 STOCK which isn't surprising considering they make 436HP and 428 lb-ft torque out of the box. Lots of things will determine how quick your car could be, but if you added a 100-125 wet shot of nitrous and a bit of skilled driving, I don't think the Vette would be able to hang with you in the quarter.

More pics:

I'll answer what I know one question/topic at a time. I'm not much help on this part since I am an automatic man, Jay260z would prob know more. I'll have him take a look at this thread. As far as I know there are only two off the shelf options for LSx swap headers. First there are JTR's LSx headers (I am running the ceramic coated 1 5/8 version) which are made my Sanderson just for JTR and then there are one's JCI sells which are made for him as well by an unknown supplier. Your 280z tank will work better than the earlier 240/260 tanks since they are baffled. Many people use these tanks all the time without any issues as long as AutoX isn't your primary goal, even then as long as you keep the fuel level at 1/2 tank or higher you shouldn't haven't an issue. If you run something like a Walbro 255 inline pump in the stock location you'll be good to go. The Corvette filter/regulator will also be fine (I am also running one). I am not running a pre-filter, but it wouldn't be a bad idea as long as its a low restriction design and intended for EFI apps. Hope this helps.

Getting the motor running the way you like it? Dude, I don't know how to get this across to you without being rude. Unless you are going to build an all out race motor you'll never see 8k rpm. Take a look around LS1tech.com, there are several 8 second rides and FEW of them buzz their motors to 8k, even with solid roller cams, sheet metal intakes, etc. There are more than a few limiting factors here. First hyd lifters generally won't rev that high, usually 7000k is the limit. Second stock rod bolts in your 5.3 won't live past 6500, they were never meant to go over 6000. The rods themselves won't live past 7000 even with the best ARP cap screws in place. Third, your stock heads won't breathe anywhere near 7000. Forth, your stock cam stops making power around 5600-5800 and the XR281 is a good all around cam, but won't make any power above 6500. Fifth, the stock cast pistons in your 5.3 will shatter like glass around 7000, if not before and if you can find a decent forged aftermarket piston it is likely it won't be rated past 7000 anyway. Sixth, even a 90mm FAST intake won't flow to 8000, and lets not get into what TB you'll need to get to 8000 either. I venture a guess that you are young and this is your first V8 swap project. No biggie, we all gotta start somewhere. I know you prob think I am trying to hold you down, but I am trying to help you by keeping your goals within reason and to help you avoid a costly mistake(s). There are many people on this board (and others) that have been doing this alot longer with tons more experence, it would be wise to listen when they are just trying to help.

Good luck with that. Your stock lifters and valve springs alone will keep that from happening (lifter pumping up and valve float), not to mention your rod bolts will let go way before 8000 rpm anyway. Besides, unless you are running a HUGE cam and drag racing there is no reason to spin that motor above even 7000 rpm.

I don't think 40 lbs to the rear is much to worry about imo, especially when drag racing, etc.

I think you are fine, especially with 0w-30 oil in the summer.