Cable

The 300HP L33 was originally intended for the SSR but when folks weren't happy with the performance on the first 2 years model production they started putting 390HP LS2's in the SSR's instead starting in '05. So some other lucky 1500 series GM trucks began getting the L33 instead. When you say 'LS1' harness I hope you are just being general because a true LS1 harness will have different injector clips (among other differences) than on your L33. Your L33 will also need a TAC module for the DBW to work correctly with a stock DBW pedal. Corvettes and GTO's didn't have a TAC modules because the DBW pedal pigtail plugged directly into the rest of the engine harness and the PCM controlled all the TAC module functions. I don't think (although not 100% sure) that the DBW pedals and DBW TB's between trucks and Vettes/GTO's will interchange as far as both connections and how the PCM or TAC modules controls them. You might want to check into that on LS1tech.com or the like before you buy something you don't need or won't work in your app.

Alrightly, the '02 Camaro Z28 gas tank is installed. I already have a round piece of steel to cover the spare tire hole and I am going to cut out a square above the pickup and put it on a hinge so if the fuel pump ever dies I won't need to drop the whole tank to change it out.

That's cool, I have silver Sportmax 002's 16x8's with 245/50/16 (stock 4th Gen F-Body V8 tires). I asked about the stock 280z suspension because mine sits at least 3" higher in the rear compared to yours. Plus my LSx has an iron block vs aluminum. The only thing I've done in the way of weight reduction in the rear is cut out the stock spare tire well and replaced it with a piece of 10 gauge mild steel (running a '02 Camaro gas tank), but I can't imagine it shaved more than 10 lbs total.

Digging up an old thread.... Same size bleeders front and rear on S30's?

Digging up an old thread... What size are the stock bleeders on S30's front and rear?

Sounds good dude, just let me know.

Correct, but the Trailblazer SS still using the truck accessory drive and truck style intake.

As you can see in the pics (excuse the lighting), the center gauge area is missing the top area. I can move the center gauge a little right now. Will a partial (glued down) or full cap work even with this amount of material missing? The car will never be a show car, so no worries there. Thanks guys!!

Cracks are okay, as long it can accept a dash cap and doesn't have a dash cap already. Pics and a price to Bakersfield, Ca. 93308 would be great. If you need to email the pics, cbright@bak.rr.com

The oil pan will need to be to be swapped out for a F-Body LS1 or even better the C6 LS2 oil pan (I am running this pan as well) along with the matching pickup tube, the truck windage tray can be modified to work. The truck intake won't clear the stock hood, but will still work if you cut the hood or added a cowl (that what I've done).

Ridiculous amounts of tq with a LSx? Try having a built big block Chevrolet 454 in a S30 (280z). Then you'd have traction problems, ask me how I know.....

Thanks, tried that, didn't work. I ended up just cutting the area out from the inside and making a 'bubble' out of 10 gauge steel plate to put back in with the clearance I need.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150850

Hey Derek, what size are your rims and tires? Stock 280z suspension? Thanks!!

Okay the motor and trans are in. However I noticed when I got underneath it to install the starter that there is no way I am going to get to my trans coolant fittings on the trans (4L60e) without some serious relieving of the passenger side trans tunnel/firewall. The servo cover is also making slight contact with the trans tunnel too. Others have mentioned the trans pan hitting too, although I haven't noticed that happening (yet). I am using the JTR's crossmember and JCI's LSx mount kit. The trouble is I don't wanna pull the motor and trans back out to do it. Luckily I think I can use a buddy's stud welder (used for body work) and a slide hammer from the inside of the car (no carpet atm) to pull the corner away to allow enough room to get to the coolant fittings. Anyone else have any ideas to get the area relieved without yanking the motor/trans back out? Thanks!!

Digging up an old thread..... I got my LSx/4L60e combo in yesterday and today I noticed when I got underneath it to install the starter that there is no way I am going to get to my trans coolant fittings on the trans without some serious relieving of the passenger side trans tunnel/firewall. The servo cover is also making slight contact with the trans tunnel too. Others have mentioned the trans pan hitting too, although I haven't noticed that happening (yet). I am using the JTR's crossmember and JCI's LSx mount kit. The JCI manual didn't mention anything about beating the trans tunnel prior to install or I would of completely done it before installing the motor/trans...... The trouble is I don't wanna pull the motor and trans back out to do it. Luckily I think I can use a stud welder (used for body work) and a slide hammer from the inside of the car (no carpet atm) to pull the corner away to allow enough room to get to the coolant fittings.

Hey, you gotta get that ice cream home before it melts!!!

Okay guys, I changed my mind about the color of the car and repainted the engine bay flat black.

I thought it was a LS1....

Stock cam?

Even if that were true (and I am not doubting it) I still refuse to pay that much for a part that will only NET maybe 20HP to the wheels on a motor that will rarely see above 6000 RPM. I'd much rather pay alittle more for a nitrous setup and NET at least 100HP to the wheels. Just my 2 cents. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On another note, here is the panel for the custom tail lights. The custom roll pan is next on the list to get fabbed, prob next week sometime.

If you decide not to use the engine cover, I would be interested in buying it from you. Thanks!!

In Cali you have to retain all emissions equipment in which the newer engine had. Example: if your donor car had two CATS, then you have to run two CATS even though the Datsun only had one. It will mostly depend on how picky they want to be on the visual part of the test. An easy way to know is to cruise down to a local SMOG shop (test only would be preferred) and ask them politely to take a look at your car for free and see if they see anything that would make you instantly fail if your were there for a SMOG inspection/test. If they are even remotely car guys, they'll do it just for free as an excuse to eye candy your car/swap. If they tell you this or that would need to be changed/swapped listen to them and do the things they told you. Then when its time to have your SMOG done, take it back to them since they took the time/trouble to help you out and because you shouldn't have any trouble since they are the ones that 'advised' you in the first place.

Although this is true, the LS1 intakes will cause you to lose power over the truck intake (but are cheap) and the LS6 intake don't improve anything until above 6000+ RPM and are still fetching $450+ (used) w/o fuel rails/injectors/etc.

Yes, I will be retaining the stock 5.3 LM7 intake (same as the LQ4/LQ9 intake). I haven't put the motor in the Z yet because I am still raising funds for the re-freshening (budget rebuild). Although I might just use the 5.3 LM7 for the time being. However my buddy Miles has the exact same intake on his 240z and the truck intake and alternator/alternator bracket will not clear the stock S30 hood. Luckily for Miles and myself that doesn't matter because we both are using cowl induction hoods that give us the necessary clearance for both.