Cable

Does it matter which way its mounted to the drivers side of the block? I bought the mount from Napa yesterday and noticed it has extra tabs on both the high and low side of the mount, both different. So which way does it go or does it even matter? Thanks guys!!

I think you are running the car setup, which means your pump is up high on the drivers side, mine is the truck setup and the pump is mounted down low.

Hey guys, I was wondering if any of you guys running the same combo (JCI mounts, 4L60e/700R-4, R200 diff) know how long your driveshaft is from center u-joint to center u-joint? I'll know myself in a few weeks, but I just wanted a heads up if I need to order one from JCI or have my driveshaft shortened. I am hoping to re-use my old driveshaft from my last SBC Datsun Z, it is 23.5" center to center. Thanks guys!!

At what point do I install the headers on the motor? With both my previous SBC and BBC swaps the headers were already bolted on the heads before the engine was dropped into place. So LSx veterans, when do they go on? Thanks!!

Hey guys, I am running a truck accessory drive for my Z project. Since I don't have power steering in the Z I don't need a power steering pump. Since my truck accessories have the alternator on the top drivers side and the power steering pump below it, I wondered if anyone sold a bolt on pulley that would eliminate the pump, but still leave a pulley so the belt tension stays nice and tight. Thanks guys!!

Passenger side of the body got stripped today.....

...and just in case you ever do any pre-arranged speed contests (not that I agree or condone), no one will be the wiser if the bottle isn't in plain sight.

I still don't see why I would have to replace the booster dude. Thank you for your concern anyway.

Boots are cracked and are being replaced anyway.

Why?

Okay, time for an update. Stock engine and tranny are gone, as are the stock bumpers. The car is ready for the JCI mounts (just showed up today), and I had a neighbor who owes me a few favors strip the engine bay to bare metal, remove/grind/smooth any unused brackets throughout the engine bay. Today he primered it and shot 2 coats of high gloss Ferrari red. Tomorrow he'll shoot at least two coats of clear on top of that. So, what do you guys think?

What compression do you have now using the L24 head on the L28 block? Thanks!!

I imagine its not much different than an external X-pipe, especially since the UltraFlo's straight through design.

Hmm, maybe I will go with the vented setup after all. Do you have a part number for those spacers? Thanks!!

I am sure you meant to help, but what does that have to do with what other year/make/model pads will interchange with the late '80's 4x4 Toyota calipers? The thread you posted, although helpful, doesn't address my question. Thanks anyway.

Hey guys, I am going to go the cheap route with my brakes on my newest '75 and just use the vented rotors from a '84-'85 non Turbo 300zx and use the Toyota 4x4 calipers from the late '80's 4x4 pickup. Anyway, I would like a better pad than what AutoZone carries. The trouble I am finding what other pads from other cars/trucks will interchange with the vented caliper setup. When I did my VENTED 4x4 disc brake conversion last time I believe I used '84 300zx pads, but I can't be sure, I do know they weren't Toyota type pads. So brake gurus, what other year/make/model pads will interchange with the late '80's 4x4 Toyota calipers? Thanks guys!!

X-Flow: http://www.dynomax.com/assets/2008catalog_pdf/ultraflox.pdf UltraFlo: http://www.dynomax.com/assets/2008catalog_pdf/ultraflowelded.pdf

Yeah, I ended up getting a smokin' deal on a LS2 Corvette pan, so I won't be modifying the truck pan after all. Thanks anyway.

I was given the same cam for free as a favor. Anyway, what size LSx motor are you running? Any sound chips? How much tuning was needed? Are you running an auto tranny? If so, what stall? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get an idea.

Pretty cool dude.

That'll work.

True, our human ears may not detect engine knock, but our late model EFI PCM's (like our LSx powered S30's) will still detect engine knock even if the motor is as loud as a nuclear blast. A simple scanner will allow anyone to see if the PCM is applying any knock retard as a result of pre-ignition while driving, etc. I will also agree that higher octane than needed will not cause any harm to the motor and can be a safety net, especially with a forced induction motor where you never know when or if the motor might go lean. As far as significant power loss with higher octane, well there are a few factors involved with that. On a stock motor, I'll agree. However, a finely build n/a motor that operates in the 90%+ VE range will suffer with too much octane, I've seen as much as 20 HP on a 350 HP motor. Is that significant to everyone? Prob not, but it would be to me especially in my light S30 since 20 HP can easily be a 10th in the quarter. Am I alittle anal? Prob alittle. My LSx powered Z isn't running yet but I have looked into dyno'ing with higher octane fuels, but I seriously doubt I'll gain much even if I advance the timing. Now if I had 11:1 compression (static) LSx, you bet all I'd run is 91+ octane regardless of what my dynamic compression is because I'll wouldn't be running a huge enough cam to bleeding off enough dynamic compression to risk going lower than 91.

Allow me to clarify Gary, I wasn't meaning everyone needs 'only' 87 octane, I was just using my motor as a example. Oil companies have spent tons of money getting folks into believing the "higher the octane the better" in terms of performance, engine wear, etc, etc regardless of the any factors related to the actual engine, car, performance, etc. Unfortunately it has worked because I know lots people who run 91 octane (highest found in Cali) in there mini-vans, Kia's, etc without any rhyme or reason other than they have the belief in the their mind that its "required" or its the "best for my motor". These days most car companies list the octane that should be used in the owner's manual. Example: My 2007 Dodge HEMI Charger R/T's owners manual stated that 87 is all that is needed (unless towing, then use 89) and actually discouraged the use of anything higher than 89 octane all together. Anyway, my original point is the same: You only need to run the min amount of octane your engine can handle without pre-ignition @ WOT, otherwise you are actually making less power (and spending more money) than you would if you were running the correct octane rating for your engine. Of course everyone's octane requirement is going to be different, especially with various mods, weight, outside temp, tuning, etc. Even the age/mileage of the engine and the amount of carbon in the chambers could warrant different octane requirements. As such, some engines min octane requirements will be lower/higher than others.

My LQ4 has 9.5:1 compression from the factory. 87 octane is all it needs. Putting 91+ octane gas is money going out the tailpipe and isn't helping make any more power either. The higher the octane, the slower the gas burns. So you only need to run the min amount of octane your engine can handle without pre-ignition @ WOT, otherwise you are actually making less power (and spending more money) than you would if you were running the correct octane rating for your engine.

Cool, thanks.