Cable

Another run to the top......

Nope......

Tyson, what happened??

Jeez I'd love a setup like that, but I am sure my wallet won't...

Yes, I had to trim a decent amount off my air dam to clear the wheels turning lock to lock. I am still having rubbing issues in the rear as well. But that will be solved after I install coilovers. Overall, 245's are too much trouble. Looking back I would of gone with 225's instead....

I assume the front mount is intended for a Q45 R200 in a 1 gen Z car? Correct? If so, you'll be the first to build a front Q45 R200 mount for our Z cars. Awesome work!! Same goes for a mustache bar (Q45 R200)? Thanks!!

Oh yeah? Cool!! How did you mount it in your Z? Headers? I look forward to hearing back from you. Later.

So what if it isn't call a Skyline. Its still a badass ride.

In terms of what? If you mean drag racing you are wrong. Any drag racing car will do better with the higher horsepower/torque engine, regardless of big or small block. Geez, you must really believe everything you read. While it is true that BBC require a bit more spring pressure to maintain valve control, its nothing crazy. Same goes for the cam and lifters, unless you are speaking of solid roller which all high rev, high horsepower engines will kill with time, regardless of BBC or SBC. Valve guides? Are you serious? BBC's have huge valve guides in both diameter and length. Even in stock form BBC valve guides last light years longer than SBC's. Bottom line, if you have the correct quality parts on a properly built street/strip BBC, they will last every bit as long as a SBC, if not longer because a BBC doesn't have to work as hard if they are making the same power (hence easier on parts). ANY SBC or BBC revving to 7000 needs more than just a solid flat tappet cam and decent spring pressure to live. Again, if both are built with same quality of parts like forged crank, decent rods, and forged pistons, etc...either with happily rev to 7000. As long as you mean the LS series of engines, I will agree for the most part. Although it takes more than a cam and a head porter to get 500+ ponies from an otherwise stock 5.7 litre LS1. Think about it, a stock LS7 with 7.0 litres is making 500+ and it has way better heads stock than the best ported factory LS1 heads. Even the magazine built-ups with their inflated numbers need a 6.0 block and HUGE heads to breech 500 HP. While it is true you can get better DYNO numbers with a carb on a LS series engine, I seriously doubt in the real world that the properly tuned and sized EFI will be bested by the intake/carb combo.

I am with you dude. I grow really tired of folks boosting about something they are going to produce for the masses and then promising the moon and the stars. Then disappearing, never to be heard from again. Its almost like they get off by getting all the attention and getting all our hopes up. I don't know anymore, I don't even get my hopes up anymore. I guess its like the old saying, "I'll believe it when I see it".

Late to check in, but I have a big block Z car.

Its confirmed to be here in 2008 or 2009.

http://www.leftlanenews.com/nissan-gt-r.html Enjoy guys!!

True, I should of said strongest. As far as the differences in strength between the short and long nosed R200's....... The teeth count on the short nosed R200's ring and pinion is higher so the load is spread out more evenly, like of like axles spline counts, more is usually better. Also the short nose R200 has a thicker ring gear. It also appears that the carrier itself is beefer as is the case or pumpkin to resist flexing which could cause some internal parts to fail. Heck, just pick up a long nose R200, then a short nose R200. The weight difference is pretty clear. I plan on weighing both shortly while I am doing the swap. I also own a R230, I will weigh that one too.

Just wanted to see the pics of the front mount. Thanks!!

Bump.....

Back to the top.....

Updates? Did you end up welding up the rear cover? Thanks!!

I guess I am fuzzy on where the end stops go. Do they get assembled with the CV's between the stock end caps and the end of the axles? Thanks for the help. How much were all 4 of the end stops? Thanks!!

Please do.....

The R230 is the best Nissan rear end swap for our IRS Z cars. They are found under '90-'96 300zx twin-turbo cars. They all have 3.69:1 gears and are vLSD posi diffs. The easier and arguably just a strong swap is the short nose R200 found under '90's Q45's. It uses the same CV's as the R230 and is also a vLSD. It also installs pretty easy buy just re-drilling the stock mustache bar. There is plenty of topics on this in the 'Drivetrain' forum. Axles, adapters and such are easily bought from Ross from http://www.modernmotorsports.com . Another source for parts is http://www.arizonazcar.com If your stock Z is a manual car you already have a R200 under it, although it is the long nose version. It also the version that is still under my Z car and until recently held up without a hitch. Even so, I doubt the rear would be any different if the stock engine was still in the car since it is a bearing gone bad, not the gears, etc. My Z is all stock in the body, although the body does flex under all the torque under WOT. I am hoping I'll have a 10 point cage in it by early 2008. If that doesn't stiff up the body, nothing will.

Forget the dual quads, its been proven that a larger single 4 barrel Holley type carb will out perform dual quads. Originally the only reason folks ran more than one carb is because no one made anything larger than 500-550 cfm carbs. So if you wanted more, you had to run more than one carb. Nowadays we get as big as we want with a single carb. Even then a 1000 cfm is too much for any street SBC and most BBC for that matter. A single 750-800 is plenty. The reason we have dual carb manifolds is for that old school look, otherwise you are spending more money than needed for less power. I would seriously reconsider the R200. I have tons of passes on my stock, original, 1975 R200 with both my 383 SBC and now my warmed over 454 BBC. Just now I am starting to wear out the output bearing on the drivers side. They are a damn near bulletproof diff, the short nose R200 from Q45's are even better (my next step) and come with vLSD and HUGE CV's that are unbreakable to this point. If that still isn't enough, the R230 from the Z32's TT models is much stronger than a Vette rear. If I break my Q45 R200, I already have a R230 in my garage. My hood is a 'glass cowl molded onto my stock 280z hood. Custom deal, sorry. If you need help with your combo, including cam selection, I am more than happy to help. I've build more than a few SBC and BBC, I know a few things .

Alot of times with electric oil pressure senders/gauges the gauge will not show any pressure during cranking due to all power being directed at the starter and ignition/EFI. Do you have spark? Does the ECU work? Checked all your fuses?

I would imagine that leaving the stockers would be even better since the bad dogs are just adding that much more support to the existing metal.

Does anyone sell just a pair of poly mustache bar bushings by themselves? I don't need a whole bushing set right now is why I am asking.