RedNeckZ

I have installed Mustang II seats in a 280Z. Also have Recaro look-a-likes in my 240Z out of a wrecked Honda CRX. I am also putting the seats out of a 300ZX turbo into my v-8 240Z (all eletric). From the looks of it you can almost put anything you want in it. The hardest thing you have to look at is head space and size of the seat and how low you want to be in the car. The mounts are easy to make up or use the old brackets. Good Luck.

All of the emblems are either pressed in or glued on. Take a screw driver (flat tip) and use it to slowly lift them up. Be careful with your paint and do it slowly. Good Luck.

You may want to check the drive shaft. I had the noise you are talking about in a 240Z with a r200 rearend 3:90 gear. It got so bad I couldn't take it above 3000 rpm with out a real bad vibration. Turned out to be the rear u-joint was broken. Put in a new drive shaft and haven't had any new problems with it. Must have been the rpm shifts that caused it. The rearend is mount solid in the car. Good luck with it.

For the best dollar, you need to v-8. You can get 200hrp from the 6, but you are going to pay for it. It cost me around $3000 to do my last block L-28 with E-31 Head. Horsepower cost is better with the V-8, more for less. How big of a checkbook do you have to give? Check under the search engine and look at the info on the change, it isn't that hard to do. A simple engine change without a lot of mods will still give you more power per dollar. Good Luck.

Yes, it will fit with out much work. Most of it is drop-in. Remember to get the drive shaft with the transmission. The four speed and five speed have different lenght to them and are not interchangeable. Other then that you may have to change the gear (for checking your road speed)(where the speedo cable goes into the transmission) inside the tranmission depending on modifications done to the car. Most of the normal Z sites have info on transmissions and the gear needed to make it run right. The color of the gear tells you how many teeth it has and by using the charts you can find the right one to run. I had to use a white one, because I have a 3:90 geared rearend and 15" tires. Check on the search engine and hopefully you should find all of the info you may need. Good Luck.

The five speed is best for the street and some times on the track. Depending on what geared rearend you are useing. On the street it will give you more gas mileage or acceleration. I have a 3:90 geared rearend in mine and a 280zx 5-speed (great for coming off the stop light). It is set up for the track, but I all so use it as a daily driver. It has great acceleration, but doesn't get that great a gas mileage. But that has more to do with the three sidedraft carbs and cam then any thing. You can use a 280Z 5-speed or the 280zx 5-speed, they each have a differenet set of gearing in them. You can look at most of the big Z-car sites, and find out more info on which year transmission and gearing that will fit your style of driving. Also think of rearend gearing and what you want to do with the car. They both have to come together to do what you want. The sky is the limit on the combinations. The four speed is used by most racers who don't need that fifth gear on the track. So what you go with is up to how you plan on driving it. Good Luck.

If you go with the drum brakes. You can go with Semi-metallic shoes for it and it should work fine. I went with the disc brake conversion. I love it to date and wouldn't give it up for anything. I race it a lot, it is a 71 240Z and has both the 300zx disc brakes up front and 280zx disc brakes on the rear. If you need a design for the mounting bracket. Just drop me your address and I will send it to you. Also go with the bigger break master clyinder 15/16" for it. Don't forget to take out the brake bias system in the axle area or the of the rearend. You may have to add a adjustable break bias system in it if you don't like them. Good luck, Rich.

The first time the BRE racing team used the old crank in c-production, it broke. It happened a few times for them. I think it was the fourth race that year, they had the new crank from Nissan and didn't have any problems after that. They still have small problems with them. But over all, they will last a long time at RPM below 7000. At any higher RPM (i.e. GT-2) above 7000 RPM to 9000 RPM my friends replace the crank after 3 races. For most street driven Z's, they will last almost for ever.

I am interested in this modification. Have you got a picture of it yet? Also what is it going to cost? Have to see how I can fit it into my tight budget. Already have plans for select parts you do now sale on this site. Keep up the good work.

You are doing the setup I am now running on my 71 240Z. You will be using the calipers off a early model 280XZ and the rotors off of a later model 280zx. The mount, you can use is a flat plate. Several models have been used, you can search this site for more info on it. I used a 1/2" plate to make mine. It works great. Also have the 300ZX front brake modification. I used the master cylinder out of a 280ZX, 15/16" size. Just remember to take out the brake prop. valve out of the back brake system. You may or may not need a adjustable Prop. valve put back into the rear line. I didn't use one and love it the way it is now. It will depend on your driving method. If you want to use the plate that I used. Just send me your address to this address: Richard.Jerabek@State.CO.US and I will send you a copy of the design. Good Luck.

I know that the spacer needed for the 240Z 300 ZX disc brake conversion is a 1/2". But does anyone know thw spacer size needed to do the 280Z. I want to put the 300ZX rotors on two of my 280Z's. Any help would be appreciated

I had the same problem with my 71 Z. I had to rebuild the steering rack (new bushings), and added the steering coupler (solid plastic). Already had poly bushing in most of it. Also the front and rear sway bars will help a lot. The last item is the front spoiler, it was a big help keeping the air on top of the car. I was running a 225/50 15 size tire on a 15x7 rim. Now she tracks smoothly. Only in the real bad ruts do we have any problems. Good-luck.

I have both the early and later Toyota calibers on my Z's at this time. The early calipers are on with the drum setup. It is better then stock and not that bad on the track, pads are semi-metal. The racing Z has the 300Z front disc conversion and 280ZX conversion on the back. A whole lot better both on the track and on the street. You can do either one. While you are at it, go ahead and change the master brake cylinder to the bigger 280ZX 15/16" model. If you go with discs all the way around, don't forget to take out the brake pressure adj. valve. It is located above the rearend. I hooked mine back into the line without a adjustable pressure valve. You can if you want to. Look into the search mode for alot of info on it in this forum. It gave me a lot of help, Good-luck.

Has anyone ever tried to install the strut from a 1988 300ZXT as a whole assembly onto a 240Z? Could you do it if we shortened the strut and put on a coil over kit with 8" coils and camber plates? I like the idea of the brakes that are used on that model. Was thinking of mounting the rotor and caliper onto the 240Z strut. But as we sat and looked at the 300ZXT, we started to think along the lines of the special lower control arm that is for sale on this site and coil overs and it may just work. Is there any thing we may have missed or not thought about in a swap like this? Any help you could give us would be great, Thanks.