RedNeckZ

You can go two ways with it. You, can first weld the holes closed and then put fiberglass jell over them. Then finish with putting body filler (bondo) and then paint it. Or you can cover the holes with fiberglass mat and rosin first. Then place fiberglass jell over that. Then finish with body filler and then paint it. You just have to be sure that the hole is water tight or it will rust from the inside out on you. Between the fiberglass jell and body filler you need to sand the area down. Sand it down, starting with 40 to 80 grit paper and finishing with 180 grit. Then, put primer paint that is sandable on it and then wet sand it with 400 grit (do not take the primer down to bare metal, leave some of the primer on it). After that you can paint it. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, you can let it sit for awhile. Make sure to close all openings (putting it in a plastic bag was a great idea). Also before you start it up, pull the plugs and clean/regap them. Then put some oil into each spark plug opening ( one squirt from a oil can squirter, like you can buy at Wal-mart with at least SAE 30 oil in it). Turn over the engine over without the spark plugs in it. The oil in the cyclinders will relube the walls/rings before startup. Then put the plugs back in and start it up. Depending if you have got the carb/FI put on, you may have to put some type carb cleaner into it to clean out any old gas that has turn to some else. Good Luck, Rich.

I was using the Isky cam 290AS. They have it marked as a 483 lift and 296 duration cam. Had great power around 6000 rpm. Used it on a L-24 with E-31 head, it was overkill for the motor. Thinking of putting it on a L-28 40 over with E-31 head and see what will happen.

Yes, it does sound like it is the problem. Did you try to seal it with a two part epoxy? I put all of mine in with the epoxy and didn't have any leaks. Sounds like you will have to take it apart and fix it. Good Luck, Rich.

Most Z's have a lot of rust. Finding one with out, is hard. Deciding what you want and are willing to do, is what you must do first. Yes, you can look for a rust free car. All you need is time and money. But most of us have to take what is there. We know we have a lot of work to do. Just look how many Z's on this site have been down for some time. For me, the last place to look is under the front fenders. The battery and floor boards are common place that rust all the time. The fender will tell you how well the undercoating was put on. If it was done right, the fenders were removed and coating then put on. Most of the time they didn't remove them and sprayed just into the wheel opening. It left most of the area uncovered. Good Luck, Rich. The attached pictures are my current car I am working on. It is from NC and is the best I have seen to date. I am doing this as a Auto Body shop project. It has a lot of rust and sole. It will be a V8 Z soon.

I am running halfshafts right now. Last weekend I rebuilt them and put new boots on them. I have a not so stock L-28 engine in it and have raced it for the past 5 years. Not pushing more then 200 horsepower from it. I took them apart and put new grease in them. They didn't show any wear at all. But the new car I am working on will have a V-8 in it and I have been looking at CV shafts for it. They will take a lot of abuse. Good Luck, Rich.

If you have the L-24 rods in the block. Then you must have the LD-28 crank in it. The L-28 crank will not work that well with the L-24 rods. Just some more info for you.

I have a question. Is the front flares on the orange Z also from the VW, or are they from the standard Z flare? It is a good looking setup. Thanks, Rich.

No you don't. You have to clear coat first and then sand. If you buff before you put on the clear coat. You will mess up your paint job.

I have had a good time with sea foam. I have tried other type of cleaner foam and can say that they left a lot to be desired. I was having a problem with the 45 mm DCOES carbs in my Z. They had been sitting for a few years in my racing Z, while I working on some of my other Z's. Well, when I finally went to start it, it didn't want to start. The carbs were gummed up bad. Well, a mud racing friend came over and help me trying to get it started. After trying for some time to get it started, he got me to buy a bottle of it and pour it into the carbs thru the screen area. We let it sit over night and tried it again in the morning. It started on the first crank and ran great after that. It does smoke some after first putting it into the gas tank. But it sure cleans out all the crud in the tank, lines and carbs. Just remember most of our cars are over 30 years old and not that well taken care of. It works, take care, Rich.

You can make your own or go to Autosport Z and order the brackets for the 1971 240Z. I was able to add a set to a 1978 280Z. One of the two holes didn't fit. So I drilled a hole for it and put it all together. Not a hard job to do. Even the side holes lined up. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, you can use the cam in your current head. You can use it with or without the spray bar. But, I would recommend the spray bar. But also, If you do use it, do not plug the cam to be used only as a side oiler. Use them both, spray bar and cam oiler. I use this system on a E-31 head with a 3/4 cam, a high pressure pump (90 lbs) and haven't had a problem with it yet. I do both Solo II and road race with the car. If you take the cam out of the N-42 head and use it in the other head. Make sure you take the rocker arms with the cam. Make sure to number each with a marking pen and put them back in the same slots. Each cam has a wear pattern and will wipe out rocker arms and the cam lobes, if not put back in to the same slots. How you go, is up to you. Good Luck with the cam, Rich.

You can check at WWW.BlackDragonAuto.com . It use to be the old VB site. They got some good flairs on the site (both steel and fiberglass). I have used the street flair fiberglass kit on my 71 240Z. Didn't have any problems with them at all. Good Luck, Rich.

Please, do a search first. It is well covered in this site. You can do it three or four different ways. Check at the top of this list. If I remember right it has a post all of its own. Classic Z Car Club also handles it a lot in their forum. The hard part for you is finding what you have in your part of the world you can take it off and use. Good Luck, Rich. Seventh sticky from the top is the site you need to check out. It should have the info you need.

You can contact MotorsportZ to get the shims. I just ordered and got some. Part # Head-saver shim kit PF-702:mrgreen: Good Luck, Rich.

I can tell you about the 280ZX coversion. It is a solid flat mounting plate that goes on the axles. You use a early model caliber and a later model disc off a 280ZX. You can not use the old 14" wheels on the car. I have had to go to 15" and 16" wheels to make it work. It has been on the car now for almost 8 years and I have not had any problems with it at all (have used three sets of pads). Also had to remove the brake proportioning valve from the rear line above the rearend. I just removed the part and moved the line over and reconnected (do not have a proportioning valve on it at this time). The calibers go to the front of the strut and remember that the bleeders go up. The hand brake can be used. It does take some modifing to get it to work, but it does work. The car does see track time and I like the way it works for me. Sorry I can't tell you about the 240SX conversion. It did not affect thye offset of the wheels. I am running a 16" X 7" wheel on it now. It has the standard zero offset. Take care, Rich.

I am running the Flexalite Black Magic 150 from Jeggs. Didn't have any problem putting it in and so far haven't had any with it running. I bought it as a kit. Instructions were easy to follow. Cost was $200 new, both Jeggs and Summit were the same price. Good Luck in your choice, Rich.

You can go with cast or forged piston. The forged pistons are now going for around $600 for a 1MM (40over) piston. You can look around at most racing piston sites and get the info you need. I decided to go with a cast piston 1MM over size. Got them from the Victoria British store. They are made by ITM. Only cost me less then $300 for six pistons with rings and pins. Make sure you order for the 280ZX engine. It will give you the flat top piston and not the dished piston that came in most 280Z's. Good hunting, Rich.

You can take some measurements of the holes (in metric) and call MotorsportsZ and ask for the floor plugs. They will ask you for the readings you got and get you the right plugs. I just ordered eight plugs for my floor. Good Luck, Rich.

I like the idea of a G-nose on a Z. Got a question for our Colorado friend. I have got a g-nose and the hood that goes with it. Got it in trade for some weber parts. But it does not have the lower spoiler on it. Can you take some pictures of just the spoiler part and send them to me. I know I will have to make it for myself. But I don't mind doing some work to it before I paint it. My address is Daydreamer1002001@yahoo.com Thanks Proxlamus if you can, Rich.

With a new rebuild of motor (L28 block) and E31 head. Depending on piston size (40 over) and compression (12:1) and what crank (stroked or not stroked) you will be using. You should be able to see that much power. The valves will not hit the pistons if the time chain is put on right (42 links, dot to dot). But it depends on what you have going on with it mostly. Depending on a lot of info we don't have, we can only guess at this. But yes, under normal conditions you should see that much power from it. Good Luck, Rich.

You can install the L28 valves in the head. You can use both the intake and exhaust valves. Be sure to install the hard seats with it. It will require you to get some machine shop work done on it for the seats and a three angle valve job after the hard seats are put in. But I have done this to my head. After finding out that I had three cracks between three sets of valves. With the new welding systems that they now have, they were able to fix the problem and install the bigger valves. Then I then had the head ported and polished by Heads by Paul in Denver, CO. This was done back in the 90's and is still going strong today. Good Luck, Rich.

You may have to add some cam tower shims to take the length out of the chain. Don't know how much shaving of the head you did. But it can cause the problem with to much chain. Most part stores have them. Good Luck, Rich.

You can use bolt stock rods as replacement rods to. You get it at any hardware store. Comes in about 3 foot lengths. All you got to do is measure the length you have and what you may need to make it work and cut. Or place the old part on the stock and mark it a bit bigger and cut. Use a grinder to round off the ends and shorten it if needed for fine tuning. You can cut several lengths and keep for a rainy day. A cheap way to do it.

Ok Synlubes, We may be able to do some thing with your need for 34mm chokes. I have two of them. Contact me at the number on the last thread. Rich.