RedNeckZ

Ok, went to the garage and got my box of parts. Main Venturis, I don't have 32mm main venturis, I have 6 each 30mm main venturis. Air correctors, I have 6 each 180mm and 190mm. The 200mm is in use at this time. Main Jets, I have 6 each 110mm, 115mm and 120mm. Emulsion Tube, I have 6 each, F16. Idle Jets, I have 6 each, 40F9, 45F9, 50F9, 60F9 and 40F11. If you are going Solo II go with the 30mm main venturis. For road racing go with 34mm or 36mm main venturis. The smaller the number on the venturis, the more grunt coming out of the corner. But you get less power at top end. I got my car with 180mm air correctors in it. Moved to the 190mm to make it run better. Ended up with the 200mm in it for the final running. It ran the best with the 200mm. Also had the main jets at 115mm for most of the time. Kept the idle jets at 45F9. The auxiliary venturis should be 4.5mm, still in use with the L28. I was running a L24/E-31 head with big valves and 3/4 cam. If you want to wheel and deal contact me at (910) 487-5972. Rich.

If you need 32mm chokes, I may be able to do some thing for you. Also have the jets for it. Need to know what you are planning to do with it. Road race or Solo II? I ran Solo II BSP with the L24. I have 6 of the chokes and all of the jets needed. I use to run them on my L24, before I went to the L28 w/E-31 head. If you are going road racing with it, you may want to go to a bigger choke. Your main jets should be 115 or 120. Idle jets should be around 45F9 or 40F9. Air corrector jets should be 180 or 200. The auxiliary venturis should be 4.5. Emulsion tube should be F16. I am going out into the garage to see what I still have, will get back with you shortly, Rich.

Yes, I had the cage in a car I use to have. But I sold it before I moved back to NC from CO. I don't know if I can find any pictures, but I will try to find some. Had it put in by him, when I was stationed in AL. He did a great job. Right now, I am putting a S&W rollbar into a 1972 Z. We have it tack welded in. Now we have to take it some were and get it arc weld in. Only doing this, because it was cheap to do. He hand fitted everything to the car and he got it back to me in less then one week.

Most of the time it will not mess the engine up that bad. As long as the chain between the cam and crank didn't come off. You should be ok. You can get it (the crank) fixed at a (good?) machine shop. I seen them fix a stripped key on a crank. It took out both the key and balancer, they had to cut a new path for the key. So they cut it (one long cut) for both the timing chain gear and the balancer and made one key for both. Start checking out the engine by putting the engine back on top dead center #1 (by hand) and check all of the pistons with a flashlight. Fix anything you find wrong. To tighten up the bolt on the flywheel, do it the same way you did it before. I have done the screwdriver in the flywheel system before to get it tight. They do make a special tool to hold the flywheel, it does cost some. Just take the time to check everything out, before trying to restart it.

If you still have the Centerforce Shifting fork and collar in the transmission. You need to replace the collar with the longer version. For some reason the centerforce clutch had to have this (shorter version) to make it work. How do I know about this. Because I had it happen in my Z. Had the Centerforce clutch go bad in my Z. When I replaced it with a stock heavy duty part from nissan, the transmission all of a sudden started shifting real hard. It seemed like the clutch was not totaly releasing. I tried bleeding and adjusting the rod with a longer rod. Nothing seem to work, so I did some research and found out that there is three different size collars out there. I put in one that I got out of a car I was stripping and it fixed the problem. The car now shifts like it should.

I have done a search and didn't find the answer I was looking for. Saw this thread and thought I would ask my question from you all. I am putting in a 2 and 1/2" thick walled squared tubing to connect the frame with. Can I put this in without cutting the floor boards? I was planning on laying them on top of the floor boards and welding them to the floor (tack welding every 1'' by 1" long on both sides with both ends welded all the way around). This is a track only car. Or do we have to cut the floor boards and put them in? Thanks, Rich.

You can call Kirk Racing Products at (205) 608-1156 or check out his site at www.KirkRacing.com . He was great at making cages for the Z-car. He is in Alabama. He makes a lot of cages for the SCCA. Good Luck, Rich.

The best transmission to put in for you, would be one out of a early 280ZX (5-speed only). With the rearend gearing that you have, it will help with coming off the line a lot. There is a lot of info on most of the Z car sites about the gearing in the transmission. It will also tell you how to do it. just remember if you do not have the clutch assembly in the car now. You will need to get it from a Z car with a clutch (from the pedal to the clutch slave unit). Good Luck with it, Rich.

I am also using the wiring harness I found in the current copy of Rod & Custom. It is on page 83 from EZ Wiring. It is a 21 circuit kit (color harness) for only $165 plus shipping. I have done the painless harness on a car already. It just cost to much for me and this one looks like the same as theirs. Will let you know how good it really is. Rich.

Just got a letter back from Flaming River. They do not have a history of installing any in a Z. But wants me to take some measurements and send them to them. I will be doing that this weekend. Will also be adding some pictures for them to see. They think they can help me to get it to work. Will have to buy a 69 to 94 GM adapter to work with the grant steering wheel I have now. So will keep you inform of what happens. Rich.

To begin with, I have used the search mode and got no answer. Now the question, I am looking into putting a tilting steering column from the Flaming River parts company into my 1971 Z. I need to know if anyone has done this to their Z? If you have, have you had any problems with the installing part of it? Have you had any other problems with it after the install? I am doing this mostly to replace the bad turn signals I have in it now and making getting in and out with rollbar easier for an old man like me. I am doing this at the same time as I put in a new wiring harness into the car. Can anyone help me? Thanks, Rich.

Need some more info on what your plan on racing is? Is it road racing as per pro stuff (full time) or (part time). Club racing (limited passing) or Solo I/Solo II (timed events)? Are you planning on putting some money into it? You can go as far as cutting the struts (shortening the strut) and putting coil-over kits on them. To just replacing the springs with performance spring and better shocks. The area is pretty open to the wallet. You can spend as much as $2000 per corner, if you want the best. So tell us what you have in mind and we may be able to help you. We will be more then happy to give you some advice on a place to get started and where to go to get the parts. This site has a lot of great info on it for such things. Just let us know what you are planning on doing?

I have a 71 "Z" and have used the early 280ZX Master Cylinder 15/16". You can use them up to a certain year. After that they change the way they mounted to the car and it will not fit the 240Z. I did have to bend the lines, so that they would mate properly with the 280ZX master cylinder. The brake line are switched on the two cylinders (front to rear)and (rear to front). So I switched them. If you feel that you don't want the bigger fluid bottle going to the fronts. You can just hook them up and go with it. I did it for safety reasons. You can make your own judgement call. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, I have seen them colored the same color as the car. But most people like them black as they got them. I will look around to see if I can find some pictures with it done that way. May take a little while, may have to get back to you on this request. But it has been done. A friend in Greeley, CO had his colored white same as his car. I liked it. What you do is up to your own taste. So Good Luck, Rich.

There are four opitional calibers (Toyota) that fit the Z. Ths S-12 or S-12+8 will fit the solid 240z rotor with 14" rims or bigger. The S-12W and the S-13W calibers will fit the 300ZX rotor with 15" rims or bigger. I have used the S-12 setup with solid rotors/14"X7" western minilight wheels. But right now I am using the S-12W calibers with the 300ZX rotors with the 280ZX rear rotor/calibers on the rear with 16"X7" rims. Also go with the 15/16" master cyclinder fron the early 280ZX. You can add the adjustable brake bias to the system or just remove the brake bias assembly from the rear brake system (above the rearend on the passenger side)(bend the line over to the other line and reconnect). Then bleed the whole system. Good Luck, Rich.

You can use the 280 ZX Cylinder on the 240 Booster. It is a bolt-on. You will have to change the brake lines from front to rear on the cylinder. The 280ZX brake lines are going just backwards compared to the 240Z Cylinder. So you will have to change them around. I just bent mine to fit. Just be careful not to kink them. I have a 1971 240Z and the rod going from the pedal to the cylinder was adjustable. After bleeding them, I adjusted it to what I wanted. I also have the S-12W calibers/300ZX rotors on front and 280ZX brakes on the back. I removed the brake bais switch that is located on the body above the rear diff. on the passenger side. I removed it and bent the line over and re-attached. It made the brakes system a whole lot better. Really helps on those track days.

Yes, the swap will help your Z. It is a easy swap to do. You will have to remove or cut the backing plate. Go with a good set of brake pads and bleed the brakes well. Other then that, it should be super easy. A additional thing to do is make sure you torque the mounting bolts to spec's. I have done this swap before using the S-12 calibers. It is great for street and limited track events. I have now gone to the S-12W calibers and 300ZX rotors setup for all most 3 years now. Haven't had any problems. Also added the 280ZX rear disc setup in the rear. Used a flat mounting plate. Good Luck, Rich.

It looks like the California wing. It is sold by most of the speciality parts houses that handle datsun 240Z parts.

I may be able to help you. I have 5 sets of them here in NC. You may have to repack the bearings and put in a new seal. But they are free as long as you pay the postage on it. Do you need the disc rotor with it or just the hub? Just let me know if you want it, Rich.

Forgot to inform you, that the shifter in the 280ZX will be moved forward in the Z car and may require that you cut the body and centre console. I had to cut both. I also had to turn the shifter around 180 degrees from where it was before. In the old position it would hit the radio when shifting into the upper gears. Now it sits far enough away from it that you will not hit your hands. You can have the shifter heated up and bent if you want. Speedo gearing for the transmission is also depending on what gearing you will be going with in the rearend. On this site and others, you can find the conversion for the transmission (different color gears will change the speed to what you will need). Sorry about that.

The five speed transmisson is an easy switch to do. It is mostly a bolt-in. The best transmission to use is the 280ZX 5-speed. It has the best geared ratio for our car. Make sure that you get the collar and bearing that comes with the trans. There are a few different sizes out there. I know I have four different ones here now (if you have the wrong size you will not be able to shift it properly, it will not push the clutch in far enough). I used a five speed drive shaft. But others have used the four speed shaft with out problem. Just make sure every thing rotates freely after you install and tighten it down. Another good add-on is the higher geared rearend. With the 280ZX transmission you can run a 3:54 or a 3:90 R200 rearend in it. It will help get you off the line quicker (best for performance). Good Luck with it, Rich.

I also had the problem with fumes. But it came from the gear shifter. It was missing the inner boot and the outer boot wasn't any better. I replaced both and it fixed it for while. Now the rear hatch seal needs replacing. I am replacing it when we do the new paint job. Hope this helps some, Rich.

The picture is of the Bob Sharp's race car. He still owns the car. You may be able to contact him and ask him where he got them or made them. The car has some great history of racing. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, the 280ZX and 240Z patterns are the same. I have used the same wheel spacers on both. Have wheels from both and they both fit each other. The only problem you may have, is for the thickness of the spacer you would need. The 280ZX has different trailing arms on the back. So you will need to know how much back spacing you plan on having with the 280ZX. But other then that, it has the same bolt pattern 4X4.5. The trailing arm on the 280ZX is like the Datsun 510 and not like the 240Z. Take care, Rich.

I think the system needs some work to it. But my view has changed over the last few years because of my age and health. I have payed into the system for over 30 years now. I have also seen what the companys are starting to do in most of the working plants in NC. They are kicking out the older personnel in the plants, because they don't want to pay retirement pay to these people (don't see a bill of rights for employees in this state do you?). The down sizing of most work places will go on. It will leave a lot of people on the street with nothing. Yes, S.S. does have a lot of problems. But I don't see giving it to the private sector is going to help. Most likely they will learn to raid the funds and make off with them (look at the last stock fall). Whenever we have gone to the private sector, we have suffered (military). Just look at what the medical area has done for us, who gets messed up by them. You now have a cap on how much you can sue them for. Doesn't stop them from raising their rates, does it? Also is any one going to want you after you have been used up by the company? Most companys don't want to keep you for more then 15 to 20 years now. I have only 15 years to go before I reach that problem (retirement). My wife gets layed off this 28th of Apr., because of down sizing. She is going back to school to learn a new trade. But we don't see any work for her any time soon. She has lost her last husbands S.S. because she remarried. Who gets that money? It goes into the fund to be used by others. No, the system needs to be rework some. But the biggest thing we need to do is overhaul the congress, who waste so much of our money. This was all setup to help the people who got left out in the cold in the time of FDR. It still happens today.