RedNeckZ

8) Yes the hood will fit. You may have to adjust it a little. But it is mostly a bolt on. I put a 78 hood on my 240Z (71) while I put a hood scoop on the 240Z hood. Take care, Rich.

Yes any parts store will carry them and they will fit. Get the smallest size you can get. Mine works when you turn it on and off. The smaller sizes make it easier to install. Remember to oil it a few times a year. Good Luck, Rich.

Thanks, I guess I will be having it TIG welded. You have saved me a lot of time waiting for answers from the SCCA. Thanks again, Rich.

I need some help with the 8-point rollbar from S&W I am installing in my 240Z. I have cut it and have tack welded it into postion. Now the question, I am having someone else weld it in. I was going to have it arc welded in (looking to race it with the SCCA group) (have old rule book telling me, I can do it that way). I have been told by friends that I need to have it TIG welded in as per new rules from the SCCA. I tried to contact the SCCA group and get the answer. They haven't returned my call. Does anyone know the answer? Should I arc weld or TIG weld or MIG weld it into the car? Any help would be great. Trying to get it done this weekend. Thanks again, Rich. I have tried a search and haven't found a answer yet, Thanks.

Would like to know something about what you are going to do with engine, before we can give you an answer. Are you going to run mods and run high RPM? Or will it be used as a street runner? I am running the 45 DCOE (triples) package on a 71 240Z with an L-28 block and E-31 head. It is used mostly on track now and doesn't see that much street time. I like the DCOE over stock SU's for tuning and power (high rpm). The engine has not got any stock parts on it and is not very streetable. I am also building a new higher compression engine (race gas only) to go in it and will stay with the DCOE's. So please give us some more info on what you planning on doing with your car and we should be able to help you find out which will be good for your car. Take care, Rich.

Removing the shocks for the bumpers isn't that hard. The fronts are three bolts per side and they drop out. The rear are harder to do. On the side away from the gas door, you can reach up into the area and remove the three bolts. You, then can work the shock out of the hole. It may take some time and work, but it can be done (I have done this a few times now). Now comes the hard part. First you need to raise the back of the car and support it with jack stands. Then move the jack over and under the gas tank. Place a piece of wood between the jack and gas tank. Raise the tank a small distance and loosen the nuts holding the gas tank to the car. Do not remove the nuts. You just want enough movement in the tank, so that you can lower it enough so that you can reach into that area. You then lower the tank until you can reach up and into the area above the tank. It will be tight but workable. Use a rachet and socket wrench to get to the bolts. You may also have to use a extention on the ratch. Now remove the bolts. After that you are going to need to move the shock around a little (back and forth) to remove it. Once you get it out, you can tighten the nuts back up on the gas tank. The hardest thing you have to do is to remove those bolts in a very tight place. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, you have it on right. Liked the idea with the lights. Gave your car a whole new look. Keep up the good ideas we need more like this. Car is looking great.

Just got my rollbar and wanted to find out how to protect it from the rust around here, before I weld it in. I live in North Carolina and have done a search on this site and didn't find any info on the subject. I want to protect it from both the inside and outside. Is there anything I can use to protect it from the rust bug? I know that it won't survive the areas that the welding will be done at. But should last in other areas. I was thinking a good rust protector and high temp paint might work. Any ideas on what I can use to fix the problem. Any help would be greatly welcome. Thanks, Rich.

You have the early 240/260Z gas tank. It is used with the low pressure carbs. The fuel pump should be a low pressure unit and have a pressure regulator near the carbs (around 01 to 05 pounds of pressure). The 280Z EFI gas tank is designed to be a high pressure unit and has a high pressure pump with it (around 30 to 40 pounds of pressure or higher). Most 280Z tanks will not fit in the 240Z tank areas or 240Z tanks into the 280Z area. That is why 280Z had to go to the small/blow-up flat tire spare in the trunk/back deck area. They are both shaped different. Hope that helps you.

Thanks for the fast reply. Will give it a try tonight.

Need some help from any one out there. To begin with, I just got a set of 15x7 rims from a local junkyard. Plan on using them as my race rims on my 240Z. I have taken off the old tires and was starting to clean up the rims. Found two of the rims that has had tire repair stuff (flat tire repair spray can) put into them. It has left a coat of sticky stuff on the inside of the rim. I have tried using every thing from steel wool to sand paper to try and get it off. I tried to use the search engine, but came up with nothing. Does anyone out there know of any liquid that can be sprayed on to remove this stuff? Any help I can get would be greatly welcome. My e-mail address is Daydreamer1002001@yahoo.com , thanks again, Rich.

You can use the E-31 head and get good results. I am running a E-31 head on a L-28 engine with bigger valves and a mild cam/triple webers (45 MM). I am using dished pistons in it for unleaded/regular gas. The head has been worked over by Heads by Paul in Denver, CO. It has the cam from Motorsport Z that is rated by them best for the webers and the street. It is made by schneider with the 270/280 duration. It runs well on the street and nice on the road track. I did have a Sig Erson cam in it for the track, when I had the L-24 block in it. It was the model 290AS with 296 duration and was good past 6000rpm. A strong pulling cam for track and not to good for street. Right now working on a new block (.40 over L-28) with a E-88 head for the track. Will have to change it before I race it type thing. Hope to have 12:1 compression with the track engine. Keep us informed on how you are coming along. Take care, Rich.

8) About the year you where asking about. If I remember right, it is the 1984 or earlier S-12 caliber you want. If it reads S-12W (it will not work with your single plate disc) , it can only be used with the 300ZX vented rotors with spacer plate. The S-12 is a simple bolt on and will work on your disc's (the only thing you may have to do is space it so it is centered over the rotor with some washers). The 280ZX MC year is the early models 79-84. It should read 15/16" on it. Look at your MC before you go to get and make sure the 280ZX mount is just like yours. If it doesn't look the same, it is from a newer model and will not work without a lot of work. Make sure you adjust the rod from the brake pedal to the MC before you start to bleed the brakes. Start to bleed at the right rear. Then go to the left rear and bleed it. Next go to the right front and then the left front and bleed them. You may have to do this a few times. Good Luck with it. I have used a 7X14 western minilite rim with this setup and had no problems. Went to the S-12W setup and had to go to the 15" rims. You may want to start with 15" and go from there.

I am using semi-metal pads in the front and standard organic pads in the rear. I get them from the Advance Auto store down the street from me. Haven't had a wear problem yet with them. They are pretty rotor friendly. So haven't had a problem in that area. Don't know about the WRX pads. I have used both the S-12 and S-12W setups and have a lot of track time with both. The only problem I had was with the S-12 setup and it had to do with the rotors warping. When I went to the 300ZX front vented rotors and the S-12W calibers. The problem went away. Both setups were simple bolt-ons. Only needed the rotor spacer for the 300ZX rotors. What I am looking at for my V-8 Z is the rotors from the 300ZXTT model and after market calibers and making my own mounting plates for it. Or will go to one of the companys selling on this site and buy from them. Take care, Rich.

Yes you can move the parts from the 260Z to the 240Z. The early model 260Z (thin bumper) is just a 240Z with a bigger motor. Most every thing will change over. You would be surprised to see how much can be changed. If I remember right I think the door glass and it's mech. parts were the only major change to it. The later model 260Z (280Z bumper) has most of of thye body re-enforcement points in it. It is the starting point for the 280Z model. Good Luck, Rich.

Forgot to add, that I had to go to 15" or 16" wheels to make this setup work for me. Luckly for me, I have a set of both.

Yes the package will work on your car. The spacer for the 280Z has to be less then on the 240Z. If I remember right, it has to be .375 in size not .50 as needed on the 240Z hub. I have it on my car at this time and it all bolted up without any changes. Just use the S12W calipers on the Toyota side. I also used the bigger master cyclinder from the 280ZX (15/16 size). I have the 280ZX early caliber and later disc on the rear. Only had to remove the brake bias valve out of the back brake line (just bent the line over and put the line back together without it). Some people have put adjustable brake bias valve back into the line to able to give them some adjustment. But I haven't had the need for it. I have run it this way since the year 2000. I started with new pads in it at that time and haven't had to change it yet. I have also run a few road race events with the Z car of club Colorado. It has been standing up pretty good for now. Hope this answers the questions you may have. If not, just drop a line and we see about working the problem out, Rich.

Go with the front brace first and add the back later. It will help a lot. You would not believe how much your front shock towers will bend in during hard cornering. It helped my car a lot adding them both. Good luck, Rich.

For some of us, it has to do with what class you decide to race in. In my class in the SCCA Solo II events (BSP), you can only run with carbs. Every little thing you can do, helps it run better. We have to run against a lot of cars better (power and brakes) then ours. We get a good weight break and make some good power. But get hurt in the brake department (rear drums). So you have to have a well setup car to be a front runner in this class. Most of us use this info to help give us an edge. Would love to have disc's all around and a turbo to help. But it isn't allowed in the class. Hope this helps you understand why we do things like this. Rich.

We found the problem. It needs bigger jets in it. The carb was bought in Colorado and is setup for high altitude. So it is running a to small of a size jet in it for this place. Thank-you all for your replies. They helped a lot. Rich.

Thanks for both of your replies. Will try to contact him and see if we can compare notes to see if we can find a fix. Don't plan on keeping it on the car long. I love the triple 45 DCOE's that where on it. They run great with the cam/head work that I have put on it. The new engine, we have started on, will have flat tops and 40 over size. The E-31 head already has bigger valves and porting. Should have body work and paint job completed by then. Thanks again, Rich.

I need some advice with a problem I am having. To begin with, I have a 1972 240Z with an L28 engine. It had triple 45 DCOE webers, 3/4 cam and header. We took off the webers to rebuild them and put on a holley carb setup for a temp. replacement. Timing was set at the normal 15% before TDC. It will start up and not idle. It will startup and run if we push on the gas a little. But every now and then it will backfire thru the carb. It looks like we have to much timing for this setup. Can I retard timing a little with out hurting performance. Off idle it runs great. Haven't work with the holley setup before and at a loss on what to do? Can anyone give me a hand?

You have dished pistons in it, if it is still has not been rebuilt. The 280ZX came with flat tops. hope that helps.

I have done this before. You have to loosen up the bolts (two of them, holds the diff. to the mount) and raise the diff. enough to let the cable go between the mount and diff.. Do not loosen the mount from the frame mount (single bolt). Wrap it three times and c-clamp down. Then don't forget to resecure the bolts back down. Cable should be wraped around the mount and the frame mount. A good cheap fix for the mount. Better then useing the solid mount that I have now. It has been breaking rear u-joints on the drive shaft. Good Luck with it.

If the vents are not on the hatch. It is most likely a 1971 240Z. You have described what is in mine. It came with the E-31 head. It was produced in late 1970 and shipped as a 1971 model. Keep looking for the vin plate, it should verify that.