RedNeckZ

Thank-you for the info. It will help a lot.

I need some help looking for a answer to a problem I have. I was trying to get a part for the vent on a nissan 5-speed transmission. I have gone thru the local Nissan store and Motor Sport Z store to try and get this part. They don't have it and can not get it. It is out of production, is what they say. The transmission is the 1980 280ZX 5-speed. I broke off the transmission vent when I moved from Colorado to North Carolina. What I am looking at doing is placing a metal sleeve (same size as vent) in it's place and running a rubber tube to a remote vent area on the body. Most 4-wheel drivers do this when they do a lot of deep water crossings. I have tried going to the junk yards around here to see if I can get a replacement cover from another transmission. But they want to much for it and I am to poor from this move to afford it. Does, anyone see any problem doing this on a Datsun 240Z or have a better idea? Your help would be greatly welcome.

Check on the pressure to the carbs first. I am running triple 45mm DCOE Weber carbs on my Z. The most pressure I have ever run with this setup is 3 lbs. You may just have to much pressure going to them. Good luck.

I have used the painless wiring harness in a Z car before. it was pretty easy to do. All of the wires are marked and went together well. Used a universal kit of theirs that the key mounted on the dash. It was all layed out and a well put together kit. I am not much of a electrical mechanic. So it took a few days to put in. Good luck with your kit. Just go slow and keep rechecking your work.

Thanks for the help. Will be getting parts and fixing them before the next racing season.

Just did a major move from Colorado to North Carolina and broke off some of the vent caps on some of my rearends. They are located on the R200 rear cover. I need to find out. Do I have to press or turn them out and were can I get replacements for them? Any help would be great, Thanks.

I am running a 15 inch by 7 inch wide wheel with a zero offset under my stock wheel wells and haven't had any problems. You should be able to go with a 4 1/2 inch offset and not have any problems with it. On my racing Z, I run a 15 by 8 inch rim. But it came with flairs aready on the car. So I can't say for sure, but I don't see any problems with it. Check the search engine and see about any posts on the subject.

Longer springs go in the back. The front set is shorter to fit with the shorter cartridge. In most coil over or cut tube situations, You can remove up to 2" from both the front and the back struts. You then move the front shocks to the the rear and add either the VW or MR2 shocks to the front. Good Luck.

I am now running a E-31 head on my L-28 block with dish piston. It has been ported and polished with big valves. I am also running the 45mm DCOE's triple setup. Had it jets set up for Colorado and now live in NC and it is now running a little lean. Have to order some bigger jets for it. Almost any head from E to P series will work. I prefer the E-88 heads a lot. Have 4 of them in the garage. How much are you looking at spending to get it up and running. The choice is pretty open after that. Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

Only with the high revving engines do you really need to change every thing. It mostly depends on the RPM, you will be running. If you stay below 7000 rpm you shouldn't need to change that much. With a new cam you will need to put all new rocker arms in at least. I didn't do that and messed up the same cam, you are looking at to put in. But you can do with the stock springs and lash pads. Always replace the cam and rocker arms together. I was told that the arms sold by MSA were not that good. Well I have almost 7000 miles on them and haven't any problems yet. I have used the cam you are looking at on three Z's now and like it a lot for the street. Also run three 45 DCOE's on them to. Like the combo over all. Good luck with the cam. Rich.

Most non-Cal. cars didn't need cats until 1978. Even then most didn't have them. It really started in the 280ZX model in 1979. Only then did you get the cats on every model. I have had five 1978 280Z that didn't have the cats. All had the original pipe still on them. Hope that helps.

The problem only happens when I am just sitting with no load on the engine (idling). After it starts to move it runs great (off idle). I have got the books for webers and if I am reading it right. It says to move it to a 52F size. Just trying to make sure I am doing it right. The cost of jets for them are kind of high and I wanted to get it right the first time to save some money for other parts. If you know what I mean. The idle system is the problem and I really want to thank-you for the help.

I need some help for my car. Just moved from Colorado to North Carolina. I have a 71 240Z with a L-28 block with a E-31 head/Cam/Header/three 45mm DCOE Weber carbs with 37mm chokes in it. I am running a 50F jet as the idle jet. It seems to be to lean. Does anyone from this area know what I should be running in it? I have tried changing the time and such. But it still runs rough and back fires at times. Any help would be great. I am staying in the Raeford area if that helps. Thanks, Rich.

Hello, Most of us with 240Z's have gone to the 280ZX transmissions (5-speeds) to replace the old 4-speeds. It is a basic bolt in. Just make sure you keep the collar for the throw out bearing with the transmission. They come in different lenghts and may affect shifting. The 280ZX transmission has been the best gearing for the early Z czr. With a 3:90 geared rearend under it. It has great off the line capability. I use this combo in my car during racing season. Got the rearend out of a 280ZX (79 or 80) 2+2. Make sure you get the drive shaft with it. The drive shaft from the 4-speed is longer and will brake after hard usage (don't have the space to slide in and out). I know because it happened to me. Froze the rear u-joint in the drive shaft and caused a bad vibration. Take care, and good luck, Rich.

Depending on how deep the dents are, you may be able to do it. If they are over an 1/16" deep you should pull them out first and then fill with bondo. You need to take all of the paint off in the area, you plan to work on and a little more. You don't want to put it on very thick. Over time and conditions it can crack and fall out. The car I bought had it in the wheel well area. While doing SoloII with it, I had a chunk of it fly off of the car. Put on fiberglass flares after that.

Hello BlueOvalZ, Have a question for you about the inserts? Are those inserts for both the front and rears or just he fronts? I was told you move the front inserts to thr rear on the 2" sectioning. Then added the VW inserts to the front. Have I been told the wrong info? Getting ready to do this to a 71 240Z and need to get the right inserts. Thanks for the help, Rich.

You will need to get the wiring harness to include the computer and all sensors. The engine, it self is a drop in. Wiring is another problem. If you are good at it, it will not take you long. If you are not, find someone who is and have them help you. Or you can go to carbs and save yourself a lot of work. A good head to use is the P-90 head.

Yes, it will work. If you have the S12W calipers and the 84 300ZX rotor. It will work. Depending on what year and model you have, will depend what size spacer you will need. Check this site for more info. They sell the spacer on this site to. Would have cost me a lot less if I would have been able to do it that way. Make sure to torq everthing down to spec's. If you are good at it. You can also rebend the small hard line and reuse it. Just don't kink it. Also rebleed them well. After that enjoy it. Good Luck.

Yes you need to get the 5-speed drive shaft. The 4-speed drive shaft will not work. Most everything after that is drop in. You may need to look at the site to find out if you have the right color gear in the transmission for the speedo. Depending on other mods you have on the car, it may take a different one. Most of the big sites have info on. Good luck.

Hello John, What color Z do you drve? I have the split Red/Black one that does travel in Greeley. It does have disc's all the way around. Let me know and if I see you out there, we can stop and talk shop. Love to talk about Z's. Take care.

I have friends who strongly recommend the P90A head for the engine. should just bolt on like all of the other heads. A good square port exhaust head.

I didn't think I would needed them until I was racing at stapletion airport race track. They got so hot that I had no brakes at all. Was using semi-metal pads in both the front and back. Before I went to the 2000 convention in Las Vegas, I changed over to flat plate early/later model 280ZX rear disc brake setup. Also added the 300ZX front dics setup with the S12W toyota calibers to the front. Made a big change to the stopping power of the car. Got to test them on the Las Vegas NASCAR track, they let us drive around at speed. They never overheated and lasted longer then I did (overheated). Haven't had any problems with them on the streets of Greeley. Also work pretty good coming down from Este Park at speeds. It is being done to all of the other Z I have. I do like it a lot.

I need to know if a 71 240Z rack is exchangeable with the 78 280Z rank. The 240Z rack has a problem and needs to be rebuild. Don't have the time to do now. Can I replace it with the 280Z rack or is the mounting points different. Any help would be great. Thanks.

To remove the back bumper isn't that hard. First item you need to do is remove the big bumper from the shocks mounts. After that you have to jack the rearend up and get under it. One side of the car mounts can be removed by reaching above the muffler and removing three bolts holding the shock mount to the chassis. The shock mount then can be removed. The other side is a little bit harder. You must first drop the gas tank just enough for you to get your hand above it. Depending on hand size it may be just a small bit or a large amount. You must reach above the tank and remove the three bolts holding the mount on and remove the shock mount. I kept the jack under the tank and loosened the securing strap bolts just enough to get my hand up there. It isn't that easy if you don't give your self enough room to work in. But it can be done. After you get it out, make sure you connect every thing back up and jack the tank back into position (make sure it isn't leaking). It does cleanup the looks a lot. Just pray you don't get hit. Good luck, Rich.

I have installed Mustang II seats in a 280Z. Also have Recaro look-a-likes in my 240Z out of a wrecked Honda CRX. I am also putting the seats out of a 300ZX turbo into my v-8 240Z (all electric). From the looks of it you can almost put anything you want in it. The hardest thing you have to look at is head space and size of the seat and how low you want to be in the car. The mounts are easy to make up or use the old brackets. Good Luck.