RedNeckZ

Check the frame under the frontend and battery box area real close. Most fenders can be replaced for cost. But frame and floor cannot be done that cheaply. Crawl under it and check everything! Think about this, do you have the time/space to work on it and do you want to spend a lot of time/money on it? Will it ever be worth the money and time you will spend on it? From the looks of the pictures it is starting to look pretty bad. Any thing can be fixed or replaced. But most projects get to be a drain and forgotten in time. Most of us die hards have worked with some pretty bad shaped cars and come up with some pretty sharp looking cars. But it does take time and soul to keep it going. You have to make up your mind on what you want and are willing to do. This site has most of the info needed to do the repairs and make it better. But be real with yourself and go with something you can live with. Good Luck with your project and keep us informed on it. Take care, Rich.

Have you done the normal stuff most of us do before trying to test. One of the best is changing your oil a day or two before testing. Also running carb or injector cleaner thru the system before testing (sea foam is great). Doing a tune-up before testing will help. Hope this helps, take care, Rich.

Do you need a front or rear strut? I have to work this weekend. But should be able to take it apart the first part of the week. Do you need the whole assemble (spring and all)? Send a address to the following e-mail: DayDreamer1002001@yahoo.com I will find a way to send it to you. Take care, Rich.

Where are you located? If you are near NC, then I can help you. I have a complete set off of a 280Z sitting in the back yard. Don't plan on using them, have two complete sets of struts for the 240Z I plan on using. So let me know if you are nearby and want the part.

You can use the E31 on the same block. I have it now in my 240Z. So I don't see a problem with the E88 head. The flat top pistons may cause a problem with street gas. Mine is used mostly at the track, so gas is not a problem. Just the cost for it. Depending on what head gasket you use and how much metal has been removed from the head and block, it will make up your compression. If you plan on using it for the street, you may want to go to dished pistons or use a gas octane booster to bring the gas up to a level where it will not knock on you. But it can be done. Good Luck with it, Rich.

If I remember right you can use both the 280ZX package and the 240SX package on the 510. If you need drawings of mounts for the flat plate for the 280ZX mount. I can send them to you, if you want. Just send A e-mail to the following adddress and I will send you the design: DayDreamer1002001@Yahoo.com . Outlaw brakes and Modern Motorsports carry the plate for the 240SX mounts. I would attach the file here. But I can not seem to be able to. The non-turbo disc are the ones you will need for the 280ZX package.

Here is some more addresses for you to try: WWW.PDKFabrication.bravepages.com , WWW.Fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html , WWW.JSKInnovations.com , WWW.FaithMFG.com , WWW.Betamotorsports.com and WWW.EMachineshop.com Hope you can find what you need, Rich.8)

you can try WWW.Modern-Motorsports.com or WWW.Arizonazcar.com . Still looking for another address I had some where. Will post it as soon as I find it. Take care, Rich.

The spacer, you will need will depend on what hub you have on your Z. On most 240Z's and early 260 Z's, you will need a 1/2" spacer. On late model 260Z's and 280Z's, you will need a .350/.375 spacer. You can get the spacers from alot of sites on the web. Or you can have it made at your local machine shop. Check on both ways and take the cheapest way you can. I am running a 280Z hub on my 240Z and had to use the .375 spacer, had it made by a local machine shop. If you want to make it yourself, just send me a address and I can send you the plans for both the front spacer and rear mounting bracket. Also on the front 300ZX rotors, I did not have to turn them down at all. Everything bolted right up. About the brake hard lines, you have to bend them to fit the new calibers. Just take your time and don't kink the lines. If you do, you can get new lines from most parts stores or the junk yard. I did stainless steel flex lines for the front and rubber flex lines for the rear. There is a control pressure valve fitting, you have to remove from the rear line. It is located on the body work above the rearend on the passenger side. It stops you from putting to much pressure on the rear brakes (drums). I removed it and bent the line over to the fitting and reattached it. Some people put a adjustable control fitting into the line so that you can adjust the pressure going to the rear brakes. I have found I didn't need it. Other then that, make sure you torque all your bolts down good and bleed your brakes. If you want the plans, send your address to Day Dreamer10020001@Yahoo.com I will be more then happy to send you the info you will need. Take care, Rich.

:| If the cover is not leaking and it isn't scared up inside, (parts of scaring is above the level of bottom of floor in the cover)(or any area that can cause the pump to break again), it should be good. Don't know about the pistons until you take them out and check for scaring and any abnormal wear in the piston bores. Most of the time, it will not have that much wear. All I have had to do to two of my engines was hone the blocks and put in new rings. Good Luck, Rich.

Forgot to say, on the rear I have the early model 280ZX caliber and later model 280ZX rotor (small hat solid rotor). I also have just picked up the front and rear rotors from a 300ZXT and looking into how hard it would be to use both of them on the Z. Looking into what calibers I want to use and what kind of mounts I will have to make for the fronts and rears (both are five lug pattern). The price was right for me (free). Good Luck.

I am using the 300ZX rotors (first year 300ZX model made with four lug pattern) on my 240Z right now. I have the S-12W (truck version) calibers from Toyota. I didn't have to turn down my rotors at all. It all bolted right up with the proper spacer. I don't think you will have to turn it down. Check it out first, bolt it all together and see if you will have to. I am also using the 280ZX rear rotor system. A lot of people do not like this system. But I haven't had any problems with it. Have had it on the car now for at least ten years now. Doesn't leak a drop. Got all of my parts from the junkyards in Greeley, CO. Also, have two extra sets of rotors and calibers from Z's I have taken apart. This system has been tested on the Second Creek Raceway in Denver a few times with the Z Club of Colorado. I used a flat plate (made by me) to mount my rear calibers up to the car. Other then that it was a easy brake exchange. I also went with the bigger MC out of a 280ZX (15/16") when I installed the brakes. It took a few rounds of bleeding to get all of the air out and had to adjust the pedal rod under the dash. But it gave me, the best brakes I have ever had with the Z. Look at all of the different ways people have done the brakes and do it your way. Good Luck and don't be afraid to ask any questions you may have, Rich.

Yes, you can put both on the 280Z. You can buy or make the brackets for the front bumpers. All you have to do is drill one additional hole into each lower frame area. One of the holes will line up with hole already in the frame. You can leave it(bumper), chrome or strip it and paint it the same color as the car. The rear bumper, you have to use the bracket that mounts the bumper to the 240Z body. I welded it to the body myself. It looked nice on a 78 280Z. You will have to line it up, and drill some holes. Do the same as as listed above. Good Luck and let us know if it works, Rich.

Yes, you can use the 280Z rack in a 240Z. It is mostly a bolt-in. You can still buy a rebuilt rack at most auto stores, they do cost a lot. I have put the 280Z rack into my 71 240Z with no problems. Good luck, Rich.

If You need a rear window to replace the one that is broken. I have more than one and can give you one. I live in Fayetteville, NC. Can you come and get it? Just let me know, Rich. Phone number is 910-487-5972.

Look above the transmission or follow the brake cable back from the drums . You should see the adjustment nuts there. Loosen the outer one first and then turn the other one in until you find the tightness you want. Test the handle a few times as you are adjusting to check for tightness. Don't forget to retighten the outer nut after you are done.

Check with the Arizona Z store. They at one time advertised in their booklet about selling a complete tube chassis for the Z car. They may still make them for a price.

After looking in the search engine, I have to ask a question about the struts on the rear hatch. To begin with, we are adding a large rear wing to the hatch. I still only have the driver side strut on the rear hatch. It will not hold the rear hatch open with the wing on. Has anyone made a model of more then one strut to work on our Z's? I am starting to work on a model that will add three struts per side to the hatch. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be doing the cable release system with the wing. Because we are going to bond the wing to the body and cover the hole for the release up. Thanks, Rich.

You can install the glass with the chrome already installed. The chrome strips is easier to install in the rubber, if the rubber is warmed up by the sun first. The best way I have learned to install the glass is to attach the rubber gasket to the glass first and then attach the chrome strips. Then wrap some parachute cord (550 cord) or small rope cord around the rubber gasket (between the lip that goes over the frame and the rubber that rests against the outer frame). You, then place one corner into the window frame area. Slowly press down on the area you are working on. Have a buddy, from the inside of the car, slowly pull on the string. Have him watch to make sure the string pulls the lip of the gasket over the frame. You may have to use a screwdriver to help pull any part of the lip over that doesn't make it with the string. Work your way around the glass, make sure to take your time and work slowly. It will work for you. I have done both the front and back windows this way. I learned about this little trick in a autobody course I was taking in Greely, CO. Good Luck, one last word of advise - Don't push to hard on the glass area. You can break the glass if pushing to hard.

If the cam came from Motorsport Z, it sounds about right. It is what I have mine set at. On all of my cam spec sheets it says Intake - 008 and Exhaust - 010. Should be a good starting point for you.

If I remember right, you will need to use the fork and throw-out from the clutch you are putting in. You will find out that it will be real hard to shift with the NA parts. The larger clutch has a different lenght to it and you need the parts from it. I found out about it the hard way. Put a Centerforce clutch in and had to put in a smaller collar. When I replaced the clutch and put back in a stock clutch. It would not shift with the smaller collar in it. Had to pull it apart and replace it just before a race. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, I do have wheel spacers or adapters on my 71 240Z now. I race it and can report it hasn't given me any problems. Had them made in Denver, CO by Performance Wheels for $200. They are for a 4X4.5 to 4X4.5 lug pattern and 1" wide. Got a great deal on a set of front wheel drive rims and tires from them that I could not let go. All you need to do before racing is make sure they are torqued down to spec before going out onto the track. Good Luck with it, Rich.

You can shim them. Use a soft drink can or beer can and cut out small inserts from them. Then add them to the top of the bracket and tighten them down to specs. Shouldn't take more then one or two to do it. Try one set and do a road test and see if you will need more. Good Luck, Rich.

The 280ZX came with two different size rear disc. The first years 280ZX had the deep hub and do not work with the bracket. The later or newer 280ZX's have a shorter hub and will work with the bracket. The 300ZX rear disc is the best to use.

Most everyone I know will tell you to keep the spray bar on it. Both cams can use it. I have used it on both and haven't had any problems with it. Some of us have had cams with the holes, go bad on them, because the holes were not done right. Most of the books out there will tell you to keep it on. The head and upper lubrication system doesn't use that much oil. Check the size hole in the block for the oil passage to the head. It isn't that big and most people will tell you that it doesn't need to be drilled out to a bigger size. So it shouldn't be affected by the holes in the cam. The spray bar will give you that extra protection if the cam isn't done right. The lifters will wear out pretty fast without the proper lubrication. But the final decision is up to you, Good Luck, Rich.