arizonazcar

Not Safe For Any Use Of Any Kind!!!

These are (or look like) the same set of arms that have been passed back and forth at least a dozen times over the years, I believe they were mock-up pieces that I threw away years ago and someone scavenged out of the trash (i know who). They are not Chromoly and were never intended for actuall use. I'm sure we'll see em another dozen times before someone finally throws them away. Dave

The front to rear adjustment may only need to be done once during initial setup, the pickup points can be raised as desired for a given ride height. I don't expect to see many at the track changes to these settings such as you would with camber. Exhaust heat should be kept away from all sensitive components such as brakes, suspension, fuel system, electrical etc. This is standard racing practice.....Header wrap is a good idea where required. The lower arms should glide into place onto the bottom of the strut housing (no sledge hammers on my beautiful parts please) If it's too tight a fit we sand/grind/file as required, too loose and we add shim washers untill a proper fit is acheived, I may include some shims with the kit. Dave

I'm not using Aurora rod ends, correct length of thread is 1.625" as stated. 1.625" - .375 for the jam nut leaves 1.25" of thread, keep .93 of engagement and you have just under 3/8 of adjustment left. Since you can do both inboard and outboard rod ends there's about 3/4" of total to play with. The inboard rod ends are 12" apart, turn one in half a turn and you have made 1/36 of an inch adjutsment, multiply by 2 for a 24" tire and your toe has changed 1/18 of an inch at the tread (pretty fine) , I may have mod for finer adjustment if needed later. As the car is lowered and the rear arms (outboard side) go up past lateral the camber goes positive under load, raising the inboard pickup point corrects this and allows an increase in negative camber under load. I'll post a pic of the end cap with screw later. Dave

So you took a big enough impact to shear off 2 5/16" diam bolts, overcome the clamp load on the tubes, and punch the mounts through the bottom of the chassis......what do you think is gonna be left of the car? By the way the rod ends have 1.625" of thread so there's plenty of room for adjustment while maintaining adequate thread engagement. Gaining neg. camber under load is the whole idea behind raising the inboard pickup points. Cross section of fastener shear data was for 1/4", but using 5/16" I called 'em set screws but you're actually bolting through the bottom of the cap on the doglegs and the front diff X-member through the tubes, (once you have it ll where you want it) you'd have to shear them both off before you can rotate anything.....the bottom of the chassis is your backup stop. Dave

With pickup points rasied , the mounts are up against the bottom of chassis.... can't go anywhere no matter what force is applied, no matter how loose. 5/8-18 thread is plenty fine adjustment for toe. Steeper camber curve is disired due to limited travel with coil-overs etc. Arms aren't necessarily shorter, depends on adjustment....can swap jam nuts with full thickness nuts so rod ends arent hanging out in the breeze. Whole 35 year old chassis has metal fatigue: reccommend you make mold of chassis and reproduce in carbon fiber injected with structual foam, make suspension components from billet titainium, replace engine with Garrett TPE-331 (has 0% latency cycle compared to wastefull 75% latency of piston engine) makes 1100 HP from 150 LBS at 100% duty cycle Have personally driven vehicle so equipped at 375 MPH (Mitsubishi MU2) verfied on GPS. As a side note I still hold Commercial pilot license single engine, commercial pilot multi-engine Instrument rating single engine & mullti engine in High performance & complex aircraft Just for kicks

The bushings are machined specifically to hold the tubes tightly in crush mode, If under impact you're able to rotate one, then the floor of the car will limit the travel upward only allowing some positive camber, conversley any downward travel is limited by the half-shaft bottoming out. This may limit chassis damage and the camber can easily be reset in seconds That's assuming you didn't install the set screws. Using a .250-inch diameter grade 8 fastener gives you the following shear capability: A = Cross-sectional area of the fastener size (since bolt bodies/shanks have circular cross-sections, use area of a circle) = Pi x r2 where R (radius) = .250/2 = .125, therefore A = Pi x (.125)2 = .0491 square inches (in2) Capability in shear = 91,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 4468 lbs After 25 years full time of making performance & racing parts for the Z (sold in 24 countries ) you guess I don't take that kind of thing into account before I hang a part on someones car? Design was intended to allow: Raising inboard pickup points to correct geometry on extremely lowered race cars Provide track width adjustment for tire clearance etc. Toe adjustment Fore & aft adjustment for centering of the strut into upper mount or camber-plate Reduce unsprung weight Look so damn good! Was not intended for you: If you're going to be bouncing off concrete walls at a 150 MPH or If you have no need for the adjustments or you don't trust aluminum suspenion components ( even though every Corvette made since 1984 has all aluminum suspension arms ) or you don't like the way they look or the design doesn't meet your particular application.......... or You live in Chicago, you drive your car all winter long on pot-holed streets covered with salt. Dave

First failure I know of in 18 years and hundreds of parts made.....the design has been well proven and been highly reliable. I continue to have a lot of confidence in them. Even so I am incorporating a longer threaded insert into the current batch to reduce (eliminate?) the chance of a repeat. It is also being plug welded Carefull inspection of ALL racing components is essential in order to catch problems before they occur. viperredls1z's (Dave Kipperman) part failed after several years and thousands of race miles, it might have been caught earlier before it broke. Dave K. has been a long time customer, racer, and installer of my products and is one of my current BETA testers. I really appreciate his input and suggestions as hopefully the members of Hybrid Z do. Sincerely Dave Epstein Owner ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

All arizonazcar.com camber-plate, coil-over, and shock sets sold over the last 20 years came with a bushing for the monoball to allow for the angle of the shock to change (relative to the shock tower) without binding the spring, and the top cone of the coil-over MOST CERTANLY DOES NOT SCRAPE THE BOTTOM OF THE CAMBER-PLATE. As usual misinformation posted. The misalignment bushing is not included when we dont sell the shock with set as there are a myriad of different shock styles (and dimensions). Have sold 50 to 100 sets a year for 20 YEARS....... about 5000 camber-plates, they've been increadibly rugged. Be carefull of mixing and matching and the cobbled together stuff on Ebay..... easy to run into trouble. The last picture is of the whole set with my new Big Piston shock for 240Z Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

No brake system is DOT approved, only brake lines are. Go figure. Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

With a modular rotor you have three dissimilar rotating parts all bolted together: the hub, rotor center, and rotor casting. Any small imperfections in ANY of the parts can and will cause runout (wobble) at the rotor surface. Also this frequently happens if there is a nick or ding where the stock rotor has been pried off the back of the stock hub. The very large rotor diameter used in my kits magnifies the amount the parts are out by. Some users mistakenly think that the parts are warped. Warp is a change in dimension due to excessive heating, obviously this is not the case with brand new parts. In my instructions (often overlooked) I specify that the rotor, center, and hub be turned (cut) as an assembly on a brake lathe to make it run true. I consider this standard installation practice for racing brakes and doing so removes any runout (wobble ) of the rotor. I like to see less than .007" of runout and less is better. Sometimes I like to bed in the rotors and pads and then cut them after they've undergone a number of heating and cooling cycles. Something else to watch out for is if you had new bearing races installed and thay have not been seated correctly, I have a $1500 hydraulic tool to do this job perfectly and it sure beats a hammer and punch. Hope this was helpful/useful. Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

With a modular rotor you have three dissimilar rotating parts all bolted together: the hub, rotor center, and rotor casting. Any small imperfection in ANY of the parts can and will cause runout (wobble) at the rotor surface. This frequently happens if the is a nick where the stock rotor has been pried off the back of the stock hub In my instructions I specify thay the rotor, center, and hub be turned as an assembly on a brake lathe to make it run true. This is considered standard installation practice for racing brakes. In Nazar's case the rotor assembly had excessive runout and I have replaced it free of charge. Dave

Here's a link to another pic of it on a 240Z, customer used 2 90 degree hoses and a piece of tube to make upper hose work perfect, lower was trimmed 280ZX hose. http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad12.jpg Our rad has custom made tanks to use maximum width available without hitting the frame rails , If the Z was one inch wider........could have used off the shelf cheaper part. Her's a pic of it on Cliftons 7MGTE powered 240Z (535 HP) http://www.arizonazcar.com/cliftons362.jpg Note the custom made electric fan install and hose setup. Crossflow design allows maximum cooling......inlet and outlet are where they have to go. Works super on 500+ HP TURBO cars here in Phoenix when it hits 116+ degrees in the summer. We make parts for customers who need much more performance than a stock type part provides. My products are geared for the advanced amateur at a minumum who have the knowledge and skill to make aftermarket parts work. No arizonazcar.com parts fits like, works like, or looks like a stock part. Been selling the same part for over 10 years. Been on everything from stock 240's to wild mod V8's and turbos. As you can see if you look at the links NO difficulties installing. I like the silcone hose option personally........looks really sharp for a little more money, Also Coolflex makes universal flexible chrome hoses that'll fit just about anything (cut to fit). Dave

Please look at the following pics, installation was simple : Really sorry for not including a complete interactive DVD installation manual for 2 hoses and 4 hose clamps, I guess we need to discuss how to fill it with water next. http://www.arizonazcar.com/eng2.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/eng1.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad15.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad14.jpg

I use the 280X lower hose with about an inch trimmed of one side, and Carquest hose #22373 trimmed also for the upper hose. Seemed to not have been a problem for the last 500 or so customers with the same radiator. Dave

The Arizonazcar.com pistons are zero deck height with L-24 rods and an L-28 crank. The compression height is 1.390 and there is no valve notch. Comes with 21mm pins. The bore is 87mm. I include the Deves rings. I sell them for $629 / set and I have them in stock Dave

Been catching up (for months now) on another pile of orders. Right now it's the next thing on the list. Stay tuned. Dave

This is an excerpt from my Brake kit FAQ's page http://www.arizonazcar.com/brakekitfaqs.html'>http://www.arizonazcar.com/brakekitfaqs.html Question: Why don't your kits include an emergency brake? Answer: Nissan's have never been equipped with an emergency brake.....they have a parking brake. Question: Same thing aren't they? Answer: No not at all, An emergency brake means that if you're going 65 MPH down the road up to a red light and you have complete failure of the front brakes and also complete failure of the rear brakes you can pull the emergency brake and stop in time before the intersection. If you believe the hand brake will stop you in that situation then ..........tooth fairy, Brooklyn bridge, check's in the mail (pick one). There were emergency brakes on cars in the 1920's Question: How about a parking brake then? Answer: I have a hydraulic line-lock to serve the parking brake function. Question: But I live in San Francisco and have to park at the top of a hill pointed downhill and I go out of town for a month at a time. Answer: Get a brick. http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com Dave

I stock replacements for all the kits we sell, none of it is very expensive. Dave http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com

By the way , the producer of "FULL THROTTLE" ordered 2 of my intakes, never asked my advice or opinion as to what carb, linkage, ignition, timing, exhaust etc. They were installed by "mechanics" with obviously no experience on engines of unknown condition. Results were as dismall as I would expect. Glad I got paid for the intakes. Dave http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com

Here's a quote from the previous thread. By: plainswolf Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western Nebraska Posts: 133 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wow this sure turned into an interesting thread! But I must admit Dave does make a very valid point.. there are alot of guys out there just like me who have a Z and either just want to keep the thing up an running as well as possible, or want to see exactly what they can change on it to make it even better. For less than 600.00 total(shipping included), I was able to get not just a rebuilt intake system, but a brand new one. I compared the costs of a rebuilt S.U. system to Dave's Holley setup. But that was not my only reason. It was the simplicity of his system (the engine compartment is SO much less cluttered up now) the reliability of it(based on 2 years experience now), combined with parts availability(I can get the parts quickly at almost any autoparts outlet in the country). and it's potential for further power upgrades. (this intake can take alot more cam and head flow than stock). And lastly, he's not kidding when he says driveability.(When it's a -20 degree winter morning this thing starts without fiddling with anything) To be honest, I kinda though he was full of crap when he told me about the 'as good or better gas mileage' with this sytem, but I have to admit, he was quite correct. But this is just my opinion based on my 2 years experience running this sytem.

I'll post a couple more reactions to my unworkable intake: "Hi my name is Robert Remlinger I recently purchased the aluminum intake manifold from Arizona Z Car for a 1974 260Z 2+2. The car was bought new in '74 by my father and has been very well cared for over the years, since 1980 the same mechanic has worked on it. I now own the Z and was excited to see your product on the web, once I got the part in the mechanics hands it was count down time to performance. He had seen a similar manifold set up but he thought it was flawed because of the low height of the carb, he thought your part had addresed this issue. After a few days in the shop my father and I went to pick up the Z, Dave the mechanic had a grin, one look and I knew why. The part looked AWESOME on the Z! It did not stop there Dad and I took "MY Z " for a spin, it performed flawlessly, what performance! I have now been driving with the manifold for a few weeks and its still thrilling. I show it off when ever I get a chance. Anyway, thank you very much, I highly recommend the manifold and I can't wait to order disc brakes from you for my next upgrade." Here's another one: Dave, First let me say that it works beautifully and I am very happy. There were some issues that had to be addressed with a grinder,vise grips and a small hammer. The header I have is 6 into 2 from MSA. The manifold actually made contact with the #2 pipe. I had to work the header a little to gain about 1/4" of clearance. The linkage kit I found has a steel braided appearance and works fine. I did have to bend the gas pedal to better align the end with the existing hole in the firewall, and grind the end to allow smooth operation of the cable. When I installed the Holley and turned on the ignition fuel began to flow out of the carb, come to find out Holley forgot to install a few gaskets. There were other issues with the carb and I ended up returning it and getting a new one (checker auto argued with me and said I had to deal with Holley, they ended up giving in). With the second carb on and a new ignition switch (another story) the car started right away and the only adjustments needed were,idle speed,float level and double check the timing. The manifold and carb work great.. It starts easier than with the injection and idles smoother. The engine pulls harder ,and with the cam is a lot of fun between four and six thousand RPM's. I want to thank your for your commitment to quality products that attribute a smile every time the clutch (purchased from you) is let out! P.S. I hope this email doesn't have a negative tone. I am very satisfied and I realize that when after market parts are purchased from different vendors that one might have to customize a little. The end result is what really matters and like I said earlier, I am happy with the performance. Thank you, Mark Shepard I still find it interesting to read the negative posts from those that have never used the product. Dave http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com

With the 13" rotors some 16 inch wheels may fit but I normally specify at least 17's . I also have a heavier duty 12.2" rotor ($60 option) that's a good match for the 6-piston calipers and you can still fit a 16" wheel. Dave http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com

ARIZONAZCAR.COM BRAKE KIT INFORMATION and FAQ's The below is from a brake kit FAQ's page I just added to my website, I hope this is informative/ helpful / interesting to you. Sincerely, Dave There seems to be a substantial amount of misinformation floating around on the web regarding our brake kits and also Wilwood calipers, I would like to address some of these issues. As the owner of Arizona Z Car I have approximately 22 years experience with making racing brake kits for Nissan's Sports cars. During that time we have sold well over 1000 kits in dozens of countries world wide including Australia, Japan , England, Norway, Sweden, New Zealand, Canada , and many others, including all 50 US states. Question: Why do you use Wilwood calipers? Answer: Wilwood calipers have always provided an outstanding combination of performance, weight, and cost. They have continued to evolve over the years and In my opinion the current crop of Forged Superlite, Billet Superlite 6 , and Dynalite calipers are world class in performance and quality. Question: What's the quality like on the rest of the components in your kit. Answer: Our rotor centers and brackets are all CNC machined on the latest equipment from 6061-T6 aluminum then anodized, All of our hardware is zinc plated and grade 8 or better. The brake lines are made specifically for our kits. These kits are very complete as well. Question: Can these brake kits really be used on the racetrack? Answer: Yes we've had hundreds of customers use them in full out competition such as GT2, and IMSA, also in open track events, solo , autocross, and hill climbs. I've personally used them in hundred minute endurance races. Question: Professional racers don't really use Wilwood calipers and rotors do they? Answer: Actually they are used on Super Modifieds, Winston Cup cars, Craftsman trucks, sprint cars, sports racers, and Nascar teams with budgets of tens of millions of dollars . Here's some links you should really look at: http://www.martinandkenseth.homestead.com/mcar.html http://www.martinandkenseth.homestead.com/kwccar.html http://www.listercars.com/1951%20F100.htm http://www.dalejarrett.com/team.asp http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=9&article_id=1162 http://www.expertimages.com/dw17/car.htm http://www.quinnracing.com/garage.htm read about the supermodified Question: How about street use. Answer: I've had them on my street cars for 22 years and can outbrake anything on the road. I currently have them on my 300ZX, 350Z and my 240SX Question: Are they DOT approved? Answer: No brake system is DOT approved Question: Do the calipers need frequent rebuilds? Answer: Out of the over 5000 Wilwood calipers sold by Arizona Z Car since about 1983, I think we have sold 3 or 4 rebuild kits. ( I think 1 or 2 of them were just spares) Question: How can they last that long? Answer: The calipers are aluminum and don't rust, the pistons are stainless steel and are extremely wear and corrosion resistant. Question: Don't the calipers need dust seals? Answer: No, I know of no reason for an additional seal, the O-rings completely seal out dirt, water, dust etc., air can not get past the o-rings. I personally had one set on 3 different cars (both race and street) over a 7 year period and never had any reason to rebuild them , AFTER 7 YEARS THEY WERE STILL IN GREAT SHAPE WHEN I SOLD THEM USED TO ONE OF MY CUSTOMERS! Question: But I live in Chicago and drive it to work in the winter every day on severely pot holed streets covered with salt. Answer: You're an idiot. Question: How about pad life? Answer: Pad life is exceptional, because of the size of the rotor and the tremendous venting heat is transferred to the air and surface temps are lower, combined with the large surface area and thickness of the pads both pad life and rotor life are extremely good. It's possible to get many years of use out of them. Question: What about brake squeal? Answer: With the current ceramic pads I include brake squeal is virtually nonexistent. I can also supply higher temperature ( harder ) pads for track use only that may produce squeal that would be objectionable on the street. Question: Why don't your kits include an emergency brake? Answer: Nissan's have never been equipped with an emergency brake.....they have a parking brake. Question: Same thing aren't they? Answer: No not at all, An emergency brake means that if you're going 65 MPH down the road up to a red light and you have complete failure of the front brakes and also complete failure of the rear brakes you can pull the emergency brake and stop in time before the intersection. If you believe the hand brake will stop you in that situation then ..........tooth fairy, Brooklyn bridge, check's in the mail (pick one). There were emergency brakes on cars in the 1920's Question: How about a parking brake then? Answer: I have a hydraulic line-lock to serve the parking brake function. Question: But I live in San Francisco and have to park at the top of a hill pointed downhill and I go out of town for a month at a time. Answer: Get a brick. Question: How hard are they to install? I don't have a lot of tools or experience working on cars. also I only have a carport to do this in.....no garage. Answer: Although step by step instructions are included and installation is very straight forward you should get professional help. These kits should be easy to install for anyone with experience working on brake systems and and Nissan's in particular. You must have the tools to do the job and a proper work environment. http://www.arizonazcar.com ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 Phone 480-844-9677 E-mail dave@arizonazcar.com

The aluminum flywheels are a whole different story. Too bad I cant show you in person what I'm talking about, you'd see in a second. Anyhow I appreciate your comments and glad to see you've had excellent service from some of my products. " my flywheel has seen 40K miles, 6 seasons of autox and quite a few track days. On a couple occasions it saw 7400 rpm or so, I can't say for sure, I wasn't watching the tach at the time. It has performed FLAWLESSLY to date, which again is something I've said repeatedly."