JaysZ

thanks for the links, 1010tire.com doesnt seem to be working though. i wish my dad was into cars the way i was lol, this would be a lot easier then. anyway, i will definately look into running the 18's now

i see.. so does he do custom ones at the same price? i may as well get the CCW's at that point then.. thats very nice craftsmanship though

hi, i found a great deal on some 18x11 and 18x8 staggered wheels but they are specific for Porsche bolt pattern and offset. Here are the specs: Made by BSA. 18" Staggered, Two 18x8 (50mm offset) and Two 18x11 (45mm offset) BSA 215 (Eagle Rock) 5x130 Lug Pattern - 71.6 center bore, specifically designed and made for Porsche 911 / 930 / 928 / 993 / 996 / Turbo or non Turbo Wide Body models. How would/could I get this to fit my 280z? I can also get a great deal on Stoptech brakes.. i would like to go that route eventually. Any suggestions?

hello, thanks for the tips and info as far as the Boyd's, i'm hoping to go with some CCW's since i've always loved that style rim. actually, i wish all of their rims were 3 piece with the option to customize size and width... but its a hell of a lot cheaper than HRE so no complaints anyway, wow.. 315. that puts a smile on my face man.. but damn the cost of tires is gonna kill me over the long run lol. oh well, i wont be driving it everyday!

thats the one!!!! wow. what a ****ing beauty! thanks :)

there was a guy with a 280YZ kit with the original headlight buckets molded in. it looked AWESOME. can't find the pics since my computer got wiped out a few months back. anyone have it? p.s. i'm not talking about Dan's 280YZ with Subtle Z front either (though it looks damn good)... it was an actual YZ front fender/fascia with the original buckets.

what a beautiful setup he has.. man i would love to have the workspace and rotisserie he has!

I'm seriously considering getting the YZ kit if this job comes through. When that happens, I'll want to upgrade the suspension, control arms, bushings, brakes, and of course the rims/tires. I asked CCW how much a set of 17x10 and 17x8.5 classics would be and they quoted me $1900. Not bad for custom 3 piece wheels! Anyway.. question is: what offset should i use? would i need a spacer? also, what size tires and where do i get tires that wide?

this is the one you'll need.. with the automotive posts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7966937361&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT i was going to get this but heck i'm broke anyway

right.. from what i understand dry cells do not leak any fumes or liquids and can be placed at any angle and w/o a box. is this correct? Sparky, do you have any issues? how do you like the battery?

Thanks for the tips guys, hopefully I can do all of this soon! So the Odyssey P680 is a good battery to get to keep inside the cabin right? peej, i have a 200amp breaker in my honda from phoenix gold that set me back $50.. so thats a great deal.

whats the best way to do this? i'd like to get an oddyssey 680 dry cell and mount it in the center right behind the seat in one of the access panels. would 4awg speaker cable do ok? i have 1/0 awg in my honda but since i'm not putting a massive stereo in the Z, it might not be necessary. i do plan on putting some amps and a sub in the spare tire well though.

great tutorials on this new forum for those wanting to experiment with carbon fiber... lets help build it up! http://www.racingcomposites.net/

- Recaro SPG (my favorite, but it is very narrow and i'm skinny) also very $$$ - Sparco Sprint - Momo Start - Bride Zeta I, Zeta II the cheapest ones from that list are the Momo and the Sparco, around $250 - $350 each I believe. The others are about $800 - $1000 each new. a bit much, but they are awesome!

oh, here is what would be going into the lights, just to show you how expensive the parts alone are... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7962463069&category=36476&sspagename=WD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7962647855&category=36476&sspagename=WD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7962633411&category=36476&sspagename=WD1V

wow.. thats pretty cool! my only concern would be the quality of the projector, but for the price of those, i would have to assume they would be nice. those cheap APC and TYC projector lights you see on ebay for other cars have crappy projectors and still get poor light output and cutoff lines. as for what i would be making.. i would need a harness with a relay to tap into the stock headlight harness. i dont know how to do this..

$250 sounds like a price for just the bulbs and ballast. however, a retrofit with a new housing, projectors, bezels, ballasts, and bulbs, with labor would definately cost more.. on most cars the usually get up to $500 and up to $700 or more for really custom jobs. it all depends on projector selection and the amount of work needed for that particular job. a Z headlamp wouldn't be very difficult and the housing isn't expensive either, but the rest of the parts alone would cost about $250.. like you, i personally think the Q45 projector (the one that looks like a gatling gun) would like awesome on a Z but are harder to find. the Audi, BMW, and Mercedes projectors are easier to find and have great quality, some having bixenon capabilities too! well, anyway, i am in the process of ordering some of the equipment.. when i am done I will provide pictures thanks for your input on the security btw, i will try to incorporate something like that into the housing.

to have it done. ready to use, just plug and play. what would be a good deal for you? i'll be doing a set very shortly. the projectors being used would most likely come from an Audi A6, BMW E46, or Mercedes E55 with 4300k D2S bulbs and retrofitted into a diamond headlight housing. the only concern would be theft... these would be easy to get to since there is no real backing to it under the fender. any ideas on how to prevent this will be cool.

no... dont use the metal as a bottom please lol. building a fiberglass sub enclosure is not as hard as most people think. here are the steps. 1) gut it first, of course 2) clean the area as much as possible 3) tape the area off with masking tape. try to keep the layers as flat as possible, but make it at least double thickness. what i usually do is put a layer of foil on top of the tape by spraying on some spray adhesive (3M works great) and laying down the foil in the same manner. again, keep the layers as flat as possible. 4) build a panel around the spare tire well. basically it will look like a fence that sits on top of the spare tire well. (i'll refer to it as a fence lol) you could make it the same height as your access panel behind the seat to make it look flush mounted. your sub will be this high. 5) cut your fiberglass mat into manageable pieces. i usually cut some squares and some rectangles and use whatever fits best. 6) mix your resin and hardener per the instructions 7) soak the mat lightly and lay it on the edge and inside of the "fence" you just made. (not on top because it will not allow a board to lay flush on top) use a paintbrush to push it in the edges, thoroughly soak the mat with resin and to push out any air bubbles. 8 ) put it down on the floor of the enclosure, the resin will usually drip from the top where you started and pool up at the bottom, which isnt necessarily bad, but might get messy. 9) after the first layer is down, wait a while. if you mixed the resin right, it should start to harden up after an hour or so, depending on how much hardener you put in. becareful when you do that, too much and the mixture will overheat and *may* catch on fire. 10) keep putting down layers.. after the 2nd one or so has hardened, you could probably actually pull the enclosure out depending on the contours of the bottom and work on it out of the car. 11) after the base is done, let it cure and work on the top. a board the size of your "fence" should be cut. test fit it. when its all ready, take a jig and cut a hole out the center for the size of your sub. 12) if you want to flush mount it, you'll need to build a trim panel, otherwise, just screw the sub in, run the wires, and you are done. if you want, you could get a set of banana plugs and have the plugs at the top. this way you can plug the sub in whenever you want and take it out with ease whenever you're racing or whatnot. i hope the directions are clear... they're clear to me since i've done it so many times already lol anyway, hope that helps. keep in mind, this *will* add at least 15 - 20 lbs to your car. then add in the amps, sub, wiring, etc..

cool, PM me your price for just the vents please.. much obliged

i think John from Reaction Research can get rust free shells from the Arizona/Cali area.. http://www.reactionresearch.com

i need one for my 280z... i think its the left one that is cracked.

wow.. building up that particular shell will cost a pretty penny.. there is quite a bit of rust like most all have said.. its a labor of love thats for sure. if you are doing it for the experience, where better to start from from a complete bare shell, it should make for a very cool project. if however, you are doing this project with any kind of budget in mind, do take the advice of others and find a better foundation to build upon... all of us here know how much of a PITA rust can be. i'm getting new floors/framerails and various other pieces cut out and welded in with new steel and its $2400 so far. (this includes complete paintjob in gunmetal, including interior since its totally stripped.. and i've been told i'm getting a heck of a deal for all the labor thats involved. ) well, anyway, good luck with the project.

check what this guy did on his accord.. very reasonable price and it looks great! http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/650229/7

if you can find/afford them (dont know what they go for) the porsche boxter mirrors look really nice.