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I did not go into the engine compartment with any additional tubing. After putting subs and a 6 point roll bar in, the car felt very stiff and I felt that I did more than enough for what I plan on using the car for. Occasional fun on the street and some 1/4 mile fun. I saw the side supports from Bad Dog, but again, the roll bar tubing was already "in inventory" and paid for. Jody

I will try and take pictures next time I have the car in the air. Although the below picture is partially blocked by the lower control arm, you can see that the subframe ties into the corner of the rear frame system. I based the tubular sub frame connectors after the Alston subframe connectors that I installed on my 96 F-body. The stock frame rail replacements or covers look great and probably work fine, but I had plenty of roll bar tubing on hand (read... no extra cost to me) and I wanted to be able to jack up the car on the sides without fear of crushing something. My stock frame rail had little or no rust on it, but it had a bunch of dents in it from being jacked up. Since the replacement covers are also fairly thin, I thought that they would also get dented/bent from jacking the car from them.

$100 from Helms for an Fbody factory service manual and ? for the Alldata subscription... This can add up. Nazar, I will say it again... and I know there are tons of people that did the harness by themselves.. I design and build control panels for a living and have plenty of wiring experience as well as experience reading diagrams..... It was soooo much easier and worth it to me to send off the harness and get it back in 2 days with all the leads labeled and done. No headaches. A couple of hundred was nothing to avoid even thinking about it. Plus once you get a harness from LT1350.com, you get telephone service from a guy that knows his stuff. Which I used to correct a problem I had with my autometer speedometer not feeding back enough power to the computer for it to recognize it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103503 I only used the ECU/Engine harness. Nothing from the interior harness at all. Good luck and invest in Tylenol

Here is another angle. Maybe you can see better.

The motor mount can be partially seen in the third picture that I posted. There is just an inch or so between the bracket I made and the motor mount. The alternator is 5 or 6 inches deep. Do the math. I am sure that that mount fits fine on an LT1... just not in a 280Z in the set-back position. I suspect that the 240 is just as tight if not more. That alternator mount is advertised to fit in a Camaro. You need to get the motor/trans, get the mounts, get the motor and trans in the car and see for yourself what room you will have. It's not much down there. And yes the motor sits low. The balance is just in front of the rack. Jody

I made a bracket and pulley set-up for mine. Here are pics of it in the car, and you can see that it would probably clear the frame rail. BUT the engine mount is right behind my bracket and I think that the alternator would not fit in that lower position. I am using the JTR mounts. A Scarab set-up would probably allow enough room for the alternator to be down there.

I came across this on Streetfire. Looks like fun. http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=62B52FCD-517D-4177-8566-BCEA2A27BFC8&p=0

Take a look at what I did as far as subframes. I ran rollbar tubing just outside the stock frame rail and welded it in where the rear sway bar/frame area with a plate and in the front where the compression rod ties into the frame. with 2 plates, one on the bottom of the stock frame rail and one up the outside. I also welded in the mounts for my transmission crossmember to these bars. I jack the car from these subframe connectors. I was actually taking pictures of the exhaust that I fabbed up this week, but you can see the subframe connectors....So the focus was not on the subframes in these pics. Side view, you can see that the subframe is lower than the stock frame rail, but nowhere as low as the exhaust is.

Because it fits.

I used the stock fans from a Z28.... because I had them from the donor car. The shroud does not fit without some modification though. I actually removed the fans and made my own mounts. Works great.

I was running 305/40/16 M&H Racemasters. I now have Mickey Thompson 255/50/16 Drag radials on the car. I have not weighed the car yet, but I would guess that it is around 3000+ lbs. I have not gone looking for weight savings and I have added alot of heavier parts... the roll bar, tubular sub frame connectors, the R230 alone must weigh 30 - 40 lbs more than the R200 I took out, heavier brakes, 95 Z28 leather seats, etc..... I need to get to the scales. Jody

The slave and hose are fine. The master cyl you may be able to fabricate something to make it work, but I ditched mine for the Tildon. Like I said earlier, you need a different fitting than is used on that hose, so cut the MC end off and go to a hydraulic line shop and have them press the right fitting on the end of your line. I actually used a 12" piece of hard line off of the MC and then fitted that to the modded braided line to the slave. IMO Get an aftermarket MC and find a stock pedal since the car originally came with one. I might have the pedals from a 95 Z-28 in the garage, but you'd have to fab something to make them work.... I'd check junk yards or check the various Z list classifieds for a stock pedal.

The 94 block and 96 tranny/bellhousing mate just fine. (the LSx tranny is different than the LTx's) Your computer can be flashed with an M6 program. You will need the M6 harness (or connectors and wire it yourself) to have the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), reverse lights and reverse lockout work properly. As far as the clutch, depends on your power level. If you are going to be doing minor performance mods, a stock flywheel/clutch is fine. If you plan on alot of performance mods, upgrade the clutch. I am running the Mcleod street twin, but with the steel flywheel, since that is what I already had in my Z28 that I took the combo out of. The aluminum flywheel would probably be a better choice, but bend over.... it is $$$. To answer your question, yes, order as if in a 94 - 97 F-body. I used the stock f-body slave cyl and hose, mated to a Tildon MC. I had to have a fitting put on the stock hose to mate to the MC though. The stock fitting is an O-ring and roll pin, the Tildon has an adaptor to an -3AN fitting. I used the stock 280Z pedals (all 3) and you will need a custom DS. Don't bother with the DS until you have the engine/tranny mounted and the rear mounted. I wouldn't guess or take someone else's measurements. Get into the SEARCH feature and READ. These questions have all been discussed. JTR and T-56 work fine.

VATS,EVAP,Canister purge are some for example. LT1-edit has a switch for VATS, but it doesn't work (at least the version I have it does not 1.9), so you need to bypass it or use Tunercat. LT1350.com put something in the harness to generate the signal the PCM looks for. Things like the canister purge, evap and CAGS the computer looks for a load to make sure the devices are present, so he puts resistors in the harness and wires them to simulate the devices. CAGS is easily edited by setting the tiggering load/speed to something out of any normal driving situation (150 mph at 10% TPS). Just cut the wires and you will have the SES light lit (if you use it) and codes always present. Neither is a disaster, but I wanted to have a working SES light and not have to deal with the annoying codes. Also... if you use the PCM to control your fans (good idea IMO, since you can edit the temps to control the fans) and you have codes, it turns on the fans full all the time. As far as the gauge cluster you don't use it, the engine wiring harness is just the PCM harness and the wiring harness from the 2 weatherpack connectors on the passenger side fender forward. The wires for the gauges then come from the PCM . The computer simply passes on the signals to the gauges, it doesn't monitor their output... so no codes. It does monitor the SES light though.... so unless you put a resistor in line to simulate the bulb or put in a bulb, the fans go on and stay on and you have a code. Have you used LT1-edit yet? If not, find someone near you and look at the actual features. Some things can be edited out by adjusting the settings, but some of the basic "checking features" of the sensors can not. I have been using it since the beginning and was a Beta tester for several of the versions. Jody

I suppose that you are right in the fact that someone else is cutting off wires and connectors, but there is alot more.... No headaches and no problems. Why did I have someone else do the harness conversion, it was just plain EASIER. It would have taken me many hours to do what he did and it was a couple of hundred dollars well spent, IMO. I had him give me leads for the start and power circuit, tach, speedometer, temp, oil pressure, reverse lights. SES light, fuel pump, AC request, low and high speed fans. Everything was well marked and all of the circuits that I did not use/want were bypassed in a way that would prevent the SES light. You can't just hack the circuits that you don't want if you want to use the LT1 PCM. I like having the PCM fully functional and I can monitor the engine with Datamaster and edit at will with LT1-edit. Good luck and do as you wish, Jody

check out http://www.lt1350.com Call and talk to Dana. If you send him the engine harness, he'll do the rest fo you... and he is very reasonable. He did mine, and I got a bunch of extras and it was 275.00 I think. Jody

Search my posts and there are more details on what I did. I would be happy to give you a parts list, but it is far from a bolt-up solution. The front rotor/hubs are from a 3rd gen f-body. Change the outer bearing race and it fits on the stock spindle. But then you need to make major mods to the brake calipers to get them to fit. Custom seals were needed for the inner grease seal. The rears are stock 4th gen f-body caliper brackets, machined and drilled to fit over the rear axle housing of the 280. Then they needed to be surface machined for the stock 4th gen f-body calipers. I have a friend that has a surface grinder and it took alot of time getting the brackets machined to the correct depth. I am sure there are other solutions to mounting the calipers, but this is how I did it. As far as the wide adaptors go. Andris Skulte (Skulte Performance Engineering) has been using wide spacers on his twin turbo 3rd gen f-body for years with no issues. (a much heavier and more powerful car) He is not gentle on the car either. With the wide spacers, you are limited in the tire width on the front rims. The wider tires will rub the front of the fender when the wheel is turned. I probably could have put 1/2" smaller adaptors on the front. Jody

Here are a couple of pics at the track.

I have a small split system heat pump in my garage. 24 X 24 with 11' ceiling. 110V, pulls only about 10 amps and actually does a decent job. I also have a 15000 BTU Mr Buddy for the real cold days. The AC is good and the heat is average, but it takes the chill off. What do you expect from a heat pump... Here's where I got mine, cost about 400 and about 120 to ship. Installed in a couple of hours and I wish I had done it years ago!!! http://www.genieac.com/MINISPLITSALL.htm

I had another thought... Freeze the bushing and cook the case. You'd be suprised how well this can work.

Brett, I have rebuilt a bunch of T56 trannys and have never done that bushing. The FSM doesn't even cover it. Here is a copy http://jodyc.fbody.com/T56-manual/T56_service_manual.pdf Call D&D Transmissions and ask them. They are usually very helpful. http://ddperformance.com/GM%20T56.htm Jody

Maybe both failed on the same launch... but when the splines twist in a slip yoke the only place you see a "kink" in the splines is where the end of the input shaft is in the slip yoke. All of the splines have to be mating or it would not slip into the tranny. I think the reason the splines twisted is because the slip yoke turned out to be a cheap no name chinese part. I replaced it today with a Spicer slip yoke. I had the DS originally made at Inland Empire. The place that I got the Spicer replacement said that this is not the first time they have seen a DS from IE that had the same cheap slip yoke on it. Also looking at the slip yoke that twisted, it has no manufacturer name stamped in it, and the sleeve that goes into the tranny had about 6 peened points to lock the sleeve into the base of the yoke. In otherwords, when we got it off it looks cheap! I tried to get Denny at Denny's Driveshaft to build the DS but he does not have the jig to balance the DS with the R230 adaptor. I know his DS's are top notch quality. Jody

11.4 AT 120MPH W/ 1.6 60' NA I am running stock ported heads and a GM 847 cam which is I believe a 234/242 at 112 LS. I have yet to put the car on a dyno and give it a proper tune, it has been tuned by some street diagnostics only. I am running a McLeod street twin with the steel flywheel. I think it is too much for the little car. Too much torque when the clutch dumps on the line. I wish I had gotten the aluminum flywheel, but it is what I had in my Camaro that I transplanted the motor and transmission from. Jody

Just think of the size of the land mines in the back yard!

OK, I'll admit I also get a little pleasure seeing someone elses destruction. I usually think... that must have been one hell of a noise at XXX speed! Cool! Anyway, I am sure that I'll be breaking a few other parts in short order... as you all probably figured out, I'm not gentle on my car Jody