jbc3

I had AN-8 fittings welded to the back of my fuel rails years ago and have never had a problem. I use a Paxton FPR mounted on the firewall. Jody

If the computer is dead, the motor won't run.... I would have to agree that the likely suspect is a loose wire in the ALDL. Maybe after you downloaded, you pulled the cable out of the ALDL and pulled something loose. Do you have a friend with an LT1 car close to you? Call in a favor and plug your computer in their car and see if you can read it.

It has a quick release fitting, similar to the fuel line connectors. Press the plastic tabs in and pull. Jody

I welded in roll bar tubing behind the roll pan. I welded it to the original bumper mounts that I modified after cutting off the bumper shocks. I figured that anything was better than nothing. Jody

Nice to see another LT1 280 running... tell me about the mounts and belt config for the A/C compressor you have. Maybe snap a couple of pics. Jody

I have suprised alot of people with my car My build was a little different.... but not much. I have stock ported aluminum heads, a medium cam, roller rockers, 58mm TB and long tubes. The motor was done years ago, before alot of these guys who are selling head/cam kits. They have made it alot easier and cheaper and taken alot of the guess work out of a build. There is actually a guy in Virginia that is taking high performance high flow old school SBC heads and converting them to the reverse flow LT1 design, but I believe they are around 5K! There is alot of welding and machine work to make that happen. Call some of the guys doing motor packages and take advantage of their knowledge. Jody

The Opti is not that big of a deal... daily driver in the wet weather, or one who washes the motor when it's hot and you are at risk, otherwise don't worry about it. I have one that I am running in my 280Z right now that has 140K miles on it (it is the vented version) You can buy the 95-97 front cover, opti and hoses to convert the older non vented Opti. You will need the cam with the longer dowel pin too, The issue is that both motors have the iron heads. Take the one with the computer and the harness. If the harness is 94 or newer, it has a flash prom and LT1-edit or Tunercat work well.... no pulling and burning chips. You can buy aluminum heads for ~200 - 250.00 and use them for a core and check out http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiHome.htm for heads and cams. Go with long tubes for the power. Get larger injectors , a larger Throttle body, CompR lifters and 1.6 roller rockers. For a quick and easy deal on the wiring harness, call Dana at LT1350.com and have him set the harness up for you. (it's been argued that it can be done cheaper with alot of time, doing it yourself... to each his own, but I felt that my time was better spent doing other things. I personally prefer the 6 speed manual tranny, but bolt on a built turbo-350 tranny with a big stall, throw some nitrous in it and hang on. The 4L60E transmissions have alot of issues with Big stall converters and OBDI computers. Those problems go away with the OBDII computers, but the OBDII tuning software is alot more expensive. (yes you can run OBDII computers on the OBDI harnesses and visa versa... you have to edit out some of the features and change the knock sensor). Older SBC motors can be made to have more power, since the cheaper and more readily available head packages, but the fuel injected computer driven motors run so well. It you are looking for a strictly track driven race motor, go old school... if you want a car that also runs good on the street, I think the LT1 or LS1 is the way to go. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/B...9EF830190F.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D...D80B7B66BF.htm

Cool, your own "moving van" Nice trailer.

IMHO No.... The motor is the same, just the intake and exhaust are different and neither will get you much cash. A good SS hood may get you 6 or 700 if it's perfect (75-100 for a stock hood), the rear spoiler may be worth a couple of hundred, again if it's perfect. SS Wheels and tires may get you 5 or 600 (maybe 150 - 200 for stock wheels/tires) If you have the Torsen rear, it may be worth a few $ more than a stock one.... The seats may get you a few $ more if they are the embroidered seats. Other than that, you won't net much more for the parts, unless you find a sucker.

It is not "balanced" as far as spinning each assembly and drilling/weighting each crank and putting weight on the flywheel for EACH motor.... Every crank is balanced the same (or within a small range) and every flywheel/flexplate has the same sized weight on it. That brings the motor close. For your average street car, it's fine. If you are planning on leaving the stock tune and 5800 rev limit, the stock balance is probably fine. The problem comes when you start mixing and matching parts. By neutral balancing you no longer have to figure out if something will work. If you want When you take the motor to the machine shop, make sure you have the flexplate and balancer along with the rods/pistons so they can neutral balance the whole assembly. The stock balancer hub is not keyed. You could have it notched or replace it with an aftermarket hub. This may be overkill if you are planning on a stock rebuild and stock tranny. Jody

I'll send you a stock cam for the cost of shipping...

I blocked mine off years ago... never a problem. Jody

Which countershaft went? The 5/6 one or the 1-4? Looks like the 1-4 one in your pic. I have a good 5/6 countershaft. If the reverse synchro is worn, don't replace it.... flip it and use the other side. The T56 does not use a one sided reverse synchro. Hard to say if it was abused. Hard shifting can break the small synchro clips that hold each synchro in gear. If one came out (which they do on occasion) and ran thru the tranny before it was trapped by the magnets... who knows what damage it could have done. Loose all 3 clips on one ring and the tranny will try and go into two gears at once..... then your countershaft will be shreadded. I have seen that a couple of times.

The numbers are in my sig.... sorry, not even close to stock. The A/C not engaged has virtually no load and the power steering is minimal, so it may be worth a couple of HP... hardly worth mentioning.

If you are looking for advice on a race.... don't let him start from a roll, or anywhere near mid range of any gear. He will try to get you to do just that. Trust me I know, my buddy is always trying to get me to run him when he is at his sweet spots. That will be his only chance to beat you. His biggest disadvantage will be from a dead stop.

I have driven my neighbors 03 Cobra at the track many times. His is a convertible, so it is heavy... almost 3900 lbs, but he dyno'd at 470 RWHP w/ 16lbs of boost and the best 1/4 mile ET so far we have been able to get is 12.1 on drag radials. It usually runs 12.2 - 12.3. The IRS in those cars promotes wheel hop on hard launches and for whatever reason it just won't launch well. There are plenty of fast Cobras, but the real fast ones have gone to solid axles. In my opinion, they are dyno queens (make big HP numbers on the dyno) but just don't lay down the numbers at the track. A stock Cobra will run low 13's or maybe barely get into the 12's w/ sticky tires and a decent driver... that is all. Your friend is smoking ALOT of crack if he thinks his car runs 10.5.

I run the Cloyes double roller and Mez electric water pump. The front cover needs alot of clearancing to fit the gear and chain. If you get a 96 or 97 front cover, you will need something to plug up the Crank Position Sensor hole. I left the sensor in. Jody

I ran my LT1 for years with a stock bottom end, ported stock heads, 224/230-114 Comp EE cam, 1.6 RR and long tube headers. You will need to upgrade the valve springs. This was in a 96 Z28, with 410 gears and it ran a best of 12.0 1/4 mile times with those mods. You'll need a good tune to see the benefits, but there are a number of decent tuners that can program your computer. I would reccommend Jeff Creech at Carolina Automasters. I think Elliott is a little over rated on his HP numbers, but his prices are decent and he seems to put together a decent package. If you plan on driving the car on the street alot, don't get too crazy on the cam. As far as nitrous, on a stock bottom end with stock pistons, you can run a 125 - 150 shot without any problems. Make sure you have a window switch and a FP safety switch. Jody

I really like the grill! Great photoshop. I think a carbon fiber copy of the front lip of the hood would work perfectly for the bars. I hope you are not offended if your idea is stolen (borrowed)

My dyno results are in my sig. The motor is a 385 stroker (.040 over) Lunati forged crank Lunati 6" pro-mod rods Ross pistons 10.4 compression Ported stock heads Comp pro mag 1.6 RR Crane (GM-847) cam Long tube headers BBK 58mm TB Stock M6 tranny R230 ET Drag slicks 26x10 15" The car weighs 3110 lbs without me in it. This is the first time I had the car on the nitrous. I don't have a purge, so you may notice I am purging into the motor during the burnout. The run with the Mustang, he had a RT of .056 and I was at .180, that's why he got out ahead of me. He was done before the 60' even with my lousy RT re-post of the first run link http://videos.streetfire.net/video/BFCEF6A2-EC2C-491A-8CC6-FB9EF830190F.htm The damn link keeps putting ... in it. cut/paste this in after /video/ BFCEF6A2-EC2C-491A-8CC6-FB9EF830190F.htm Jody

I went to Mason Dixon yesterday and got in a few passes. 60' 330 1/8 MPH 1000 1/4 MPH Pass 1 shake down pass and missed 4th gear 11.753 at 103.14 MPH Pass 2 60' 1.631 330 4.536 1/8 6.943 MPH 103.12 1000 9.068 1/4 10.842 MPH 127.26 Pass 3 60' 1.540 330 4.420 1/8 6.803 MPH 99.85 1000 8.877 1/4 10.629 MPH 128.47 Pass 4 60' 1.557 330 4.439 1/8 6.819 MPH 101.92 1000 8.908 1/4 10.671 MPH 127.76 Videos of the 3rd and 4th passes http://videos.streetfire.net/video/BFCEF6A2-EC2C-491A-8CC6-F89EF830190F.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/DAF61A94-2A1C-4F4D-BDB6-73D80B7B66BF.htm The car seems to be running well, I just need to get consistent on my driving. I was having a tough time hitting the shift light and I have not launched it hard yet. It was a good day... great weather, good times and no broken parts Jody

Not the first time I was mistaken because of my nick name... or asked how's Buffy? (Some of you young ones won't get it) It's really nothing I take personally. I ordered the '78 Urethane air dam with brake duct holes from MSA today. I'll need to stop by the auto paint store and pick up some additive to paint it. Jody

Ha! This is scary! No female here dude. I'm an old guy too, hopefully this is the last crunch... wishfull thinking. Jody

I had a blonde moment and pulled right up to the curb this morning and CRUNCH! Goodbye fiberglass air dam. (used to driving a Suburban) I suppose I will temporarily fiberglass the rear side of the air dam (It's duct taped on the back side right now) to keep it from falling apart. Then I guess I'll order a urethane one. Oh boy Jody

OK, I figured it out..... There is a plug under the dash where the main power wires from the fusible links connect to the rest of the harness. I found the damn thing was loose. Everything is back to normal. I know these plugs don't unplug themselves so I would assume that I probably never plugged it in tightly from all the re-wiring I have done. Jody (with a wire or two loose )