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I have converted my 280 to Chevy bolt pattern. MMC Chevy Billet stubs in the rear and Chevy hubs/rotors on the front. The stub axles were expensive and alot of work to get the brakes to work and I still needed adaptors to make the stock 4th gen Camaro wheels fit since the offset is so much on those wheels. I bought my adaptors from Andris Skulte. He runs these adaptors on his twin turbo Camaro, both drag racing and road racing, with no issues. You won't regret getting them from him. Jody

I just finished doing my A/C in my 280. Someone else on the list had posted about Ray Everett. I sent him an e-mail and he went out of his way to make sure I had everything I needed and made sure it was all correct. Prices and quality were great! He does not list the condensers individually, but he does sell them. http://www.rayeveritt.com Jody

Bart, Electrical problems suck! I don't have much to add as far as specifics, but I would look at the A/C and PCM power (constant and switched) and ground connections as well as all the fuses. I usually look at the Opti last when I hear about sudden failures. I know it can fail, even self destruct, but you usually get clues that it is on it's way out. Don't forget to check the fusable links. The SES light will stay on when the key is on and during cranking. It turns off just after the engine fires. Good luck, Jody

If you want to hear Nate's side... look here http://www.racersden.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60317 Jody

All you need is the 95 computer and knock sensor. You can use the 96 harness.

Thanks, please let me know. If I didn't get any response, I was just going to swap the hoses to see if the direction made a difference. Jody

I have a couple of questions about the heater control valve in my 78 280Z. It is a manual valve (not the vacuum actuated valve). Which fitting on the firewall (engine side) is the inlet and which is the outlet? Is this valve supposed to bypass the hot water completely from the heater core when in the "cold" setting? Could I be backfeeding the heater core if the water is being pumped in the wrong direction? I con't seem to find any decent pictures or flow diagrams of the heater core and control valve. My heater core still gets very hot even when the setting on the dash stays in the cold position. The Cold - Hot slide control on the dash moves the arm on the heater control valve. I just don't know if it is out of adjustment, broken or maybe I have the hoses backwards.

I put Chevrolet 3rd gen Camaro hubs and rotors on the front of my car. It required changing one of the bearings and race and I had to source a custom inner grease seal. (tigerseal.com) I am using the Toyota 4 piston calipers. The offset of the rotors was off and I had to machine the caliper mounts to get them to line up. I also had to widen the opening of the caliper for the rotor to fit. It was somewhat of a PITA, but it seems to be working well for me so far. Jody

Here is a picture of me at the track last month. 1.50 60' launch

I think they are the Comp 955 springs (from memory, it's been awhile) and titanium retainers. I am also running the Pro Mag 1.6 RR's. Jody

From my flow chart from 2/98 (Yes no typo.. 1998 ) Stock unported heads ...........100 ....200 ...300 ....400 ....500 ....600 Intake 59.53 120.24 171.48 199.62 212.35 201.69 Exhaust 44.35 91.54 118.15 137.79 148.88 153.94 After porting ...........100 ....200 ...300 ....400 ....500 ....600 Intake 65.38 131.20 180.66 223.01 252.93 249.37 Exhaust 56.12 104.50 133.46 157.06 182.77 195.12 These heads are the ones that are on my motor now. They have about 140K on them. I changed the springs and seals on these heads maybe 30k ago.

I am running stock ported heads.

IMO, the 847 will be too big for stock heads. If/when you put ported heads on, upgrade the cam. People too often over cam with stock heads and the car runs worse. It may sound lopey and good at idle and low end, but it won't perform. The Hot cam is a decent dcam for stock heads, I'd stay there until you upgrade. (BTW I am running the 847 cam with ported heads) Also, get the nitrous Jody

I am in Damascus. East of Frederick, West of Baltimore. My neighbor owns a mountian in central West Virginia where a bunch of friends go hunting a couple times a year. We rarely see any snakes out there... but 4 years ago, the one time I took the whole family out there, one of my daughters was standing at the peak and we were about 150 feet away setting up camp and she calls me because she says there is a really wierd noise up there. I ignored her at first, (I was busy unpacking the truck and setting up) but she kept calling me. So reluctantly I walked up to the peak and about 10 feet from her under a rock ledge was a fat 5' Timber Rattler Snake. That thing was loud! and not very happy we were there. Boy I felt dumb for not listening to her. 9mm w/ snake shot is very effective! About 2 hours later, another one wandered into the camp. Out with the 9mm again! Well that was the last time the wife and daughters ever wanted to go up there.... Funny, we have never seen another snake up there since. Go figure.

Looking at the various snake sites for snakes in Maryland, there seem to be a number of different snakes that resemble this one, Corn snake, Milksnake, Kingsnake and Northern Scarlet snake.. they are all very similar. Bottom line, it's not dangerous and since they have been around, I rarely get a mouse in the garage

I live in west central Maryland and I back up to a ton of park land. Snakes are fairly common here, mostly black snakes, black rat snakes and garter snakes. There is a large creek behind the house, so it's prime for the little critters. I have one interesting snake that I have taken down the road a couple of times and "she" has returned a couple of times. Last year I found a couple of babies and yesterday I found another one. They are the most docile and friendly snakes. I have looked up the local snakes on line and seem to think it is a Kingsnake or Corn snake, but the colors are different than the pictures. Any snake people here? Mostly I am just curious. Jody The top 2 pictures are of "mom" and the bottom 2 are the baby I found yesterday. Mom was about 4 feet long and Jr was about 12" long.

Check the emergency brake cable and make sure it is not hanging and binding. I have had that happen with my 92 3/4 ton Sub and the one rear drum would drag enough to heat up the drum and wheel.. and smell, but it was hardly noticable when driving as far as pulling the truck or stopping. I readjusted the brakes several times before I figured out what was causing the problem. Especially because the problem was somewhat intermittant. Jody

OUCH !!! How's the bike? Jody

The stock Cobra rears are 355 gears... not that far off from the stock R230. I think the R230 would be a good choice, it seems to be holding up to my abuse. The Cobra IRS has a bracket on the rear cover that supports the rear to the frame. It is the weak point with the center section. There is a fix, it is a girdle that bolts directly to the perimeter bolts of the cover. http://www.billetflow.com/irs_brace.htm http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/555-8118.htm The axles are also an issue. They have level 5 axles (~$800.00 I believe) but I have seen the high HP Cobras break them also. It has alot to do with the wheel hop on launches. It seems that many of the the high HP Cobras are routinely swapping to solid axle rears because they are tired of dealing with the breakage. I know that I have really tightened up my rear squatting issue by using double bump stops on my coil-overs in the rear. One set hard and the second set soft. I used to feel the same as you describe about the exhaust dragging on launches. No more. Jody

Yes, it can run like crap with no VSS signal. I was suprised that it made that big of a difference. I left the VSS unhooked after a clutch swap once and drove the car. It ran like crap. Hooking it back up cured the problem. Jody

I had the EGR, VATS, EVAP taken out. I got a few more things wired onto my harness than the minimum. Speedo Tach Fuel pump SES light Reverse light Fans (I got both fans High/Low wired in) Power constant Power switched Start Ground I think his 4 wire is power constant, power switched, start, ground. Call him and discuss your wants/needs. It didn't cost much more to have the other things wired in. Jody

I have used my old Delta power miter saw with a metal cutting blade on it for a ton of tubing and various other bracket cutting. The blade guard is plastic and it occasionally melts, but it works. I don't use it for wood anymore.

I don't know anything about the ebay product, but I frequently suggest calling Dana at LT1350.com for any LT1 wiring issues. He has a module. Jody

The LS_ motors are set-up and tuned with a returnless fuel system that maintains a constant fuel pressure at all times... but the LT_ systems are set-up and tuned with a return system that has a vac line to the FPR that adjusts the pressure based on vac. That is why I stayed with the external FPR and a return line. Maybe it could be adapted... I have never had an issue with the fuel getting too hot and causing issues.