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Yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden the radio shuts off. I thought it was just a fuse, so I drove home. I found No blown fuses at all. Then I realized that I had no power at all at the stock fuse block. None.... Zippo ??? No heater fan, no interior lights, no horn, no tail lights etc..... I did have power to the headlights. I installed a fuse block under the hood and one under the dash that I powered my PCM, fans, Electric water pump, fuel pump etc... in other words, all the stuff I added. The one under the dash is powered directly off the battery and the one under the dash is powered off a relay triggered off the "on" side of the key switch. The engine runs fine still. When I did my install, I pulled all of the stock 280 fusible links and replaced them with the GM links I took from my donor car. I left the rest of the harness basically intact for the accessories etc. I pulled the fusible links out of the harness and tested them and they all seemed fine. It was getting late , so I pulled the car in the garage and quit for the evening. I'll be testing the various circuits and going searching, but I thought maybe someone may have an idea of something obvious that I am overlooking. Jody

The T-56 does not have a switch to tell if it is in gear.

I didn't bother doing anything, but if you are determined, scavange the clutch pedal switch from an f-body and mount it on the floor under your pedal.

Since I used the stock 280 gauges, I did not use the leads that were in the LT1-350 harness. Those outputs will work with stock Chevy or Autometer gauges. I ended up using the stock 280 harness leads for both temp and oil pressure and installed 280 sensors in the LT1 block. Neither of these set codes because they were not connected. Jody

The speedo not being connected is enough to set the codes to cause the fans to run. You may be able to put a resistor on the speedo lead to 12V to get the speedo code to clear until you get a speedo. (Call Dana and ask him) Scan for code when the car is running to see what issues you have before getting worried. Some of the connectors may be there but still jumped out. Jody

You need to scan the computer to see if there are any codes set. If there are any codes, the fans will run all the time. I actually had the harness equipped with SES light wire. It also MUST be connected or the fans will run all the time. Other things like the speedometer (if you had a lead pulled from the computer) need to be connected also, or they'll set a code. I had my harness made up with both high and low fan relays and they work from the PCM signal just fine. When you program the computer w/ Tunercat or LT1-edit, they cycle the fan and fuel pump during the programming cycle. That is normal. I have never read the codes with a paperclip in the 4th gen f-body's (don't personally know if it works w/ these PCM's) I have always used either Diacom or Datamaster. Scan it and see, I suspect you have set a code somewhere. Jody

David, I would disagree with the limiting strap and the bump stop. Either would allow the rear to move and the billet mustache bar won't be very forgiving. You'll likely break something. I think that brackets welded to your mounts and bolted to the stock strap mount points would be the way to go. Good luck. Looks good so far. Jody

Enjoy http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index

As I recall, Take the outer seal off and there are a couple of screws holding the frame together. Once the screws are out I had to work to get the frame apart. Jody

Well.. 1/2 acre of grass, 35 min commute... I'm going to the garage to weld the hitch on Good luck, and I hope you can sell quickly so you can get the dream home. Jody

Hmm, I wonder if I could fab a hitch to my 280Z and pull my Bass boat...... Lake front home, quiet location, no neighbors on top of you, bigger shop.. WOW. But, that commute will be torture, and no food or parts places close another WOW. 2 1/2 acres of grass? That could cut into your play-time also. Tough call. IMO... The house and deal would have to be really something special to make it worth the negatives. I hate Beltway commuting... thankfully I don't have to do it anymore! Good luck in your decision. Jody

I used the stock T-56 slave and took the braided line to a local hydraulic hose shop and had them cut the MC end off and press an AN fitting on the hose. The stock line is too short, so I ran hard line off the master cyl long enough to fit. ~ 10" - 12" Jody

I second the VATS diagnosis. Jody

Don't do it unless you port the heads. I have LT1 stock ported heads.... they can be made to flow decently. IMO If you are going to leave the stock heads, unported, put a milder cam in like Comp EE 218/230-114. Jody

385 stroker, Crane version of the GM847 cam Lunati forged crank, Lunati pro mod rods, Ross pistons, ported stock heads, 1.6 Pro mag RR. , BBK 58mm TB. LT1-edit tuning Unfortunately the compression is only 10.4 (long story) on this motor and the heads are tired. This combination with freshened heads and higher compression should be around 425 to 435 RWHP. I am going to up the dry shot to 200 and see what it will do Jody

FYI... My 5205 headers needed a little tweaking to make them fit right. I ordered them bare, cut and welded them and sent them back to S&S to get them coated. The collectors interfered with the slave cylinder bump out on the T56 and on the passenger side the collector was a little too close to the floor. Easy fix when the headers were bare. Jody

You will be happy when you get it. His work is top notch.... Call him for support if you need it when you are putting it in. Jody

Is that rear sway bar a stock unit or is it a custom or retrofit??? Jody

I weighed mine on a digital truck scale at a roofing supply business near me. I think I will go up again and re-weigh the car at some time in the near future to verify the reading, but I suspect that it is pretty accurate since it weighs in 1 lb increments and I stepped on and off the scale several times with my car on it and it was dead on. Hey, It still runs like a bat outa hell, and I can't wait to run it on the nitrous I just remember the old days building V8 Vegas and watching them twist like crazy, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't driving a pretzel in 6 months. Nazar: Just to give you a point of reference, I weighed my R230 on the shipping scale at work and it weighed 123lbs !!! I it very heavy. Grumpyvette: I know we weighed a friend's Z06 last year and it was around 3100lbs. (I don't remember exactly) That is really my point of reference for saying that my car is a fat pig. Jody

I stopped by the scales yesterday and weighed my car. Now I never made any attempt to lighten anything and nearly everything I added, added to the weight... oh well. I'm not looking for advise to reduce weight...(obviously I just need to take some of the sh** off if I want to trim down) just commenting on how much. Added: Rear flares Roll bar Sub frames LT1/6 speed vs stock motor/trans R230 vs R200 Frame for R230 Toyota 4 piston calipers and 3rd gen Camaro Hub/rotor vs stock brakes Rear rotor/caliper vs aluminum drum and stock brakes (maybe a wash) MMC billet stub axles vs stock stubs Moser axles and CV's vs stock axles 4th Gen Camaro Leather seats vs stock seats 16" 4th Gen Camaro wheels/tires vs 15" stock wheels/tires (maybe a wash) Loss: (not much in this column) roll bar tubing behind rear valance and in front of radiator (since no bumpers) vs stock bumpers and supports 3/4 tank of gas and 1/2 full 10lb nitrous bottle, laptop and power inverter. #3110 lbs. #3305 lbs with me in the car.

I have a 5 point and have (like others) skipped the sub belt since I do not have a hole in my seat for it. Lap belts are double bolted in the stock locations, shoulder belts attached to the roll bar. I recently saw a sub belt bracket for in a friend's Vette that was a bar that mounts with the 2 rear seat bolts. The sub belt is attached to this bar and fed between the seat back and bottom and you sit on the sub belt and it comes up between your legs and attaches. I am going to make one for my car similar to that. http://www.livermoreperformance.com/camaro_vette_safety.html http://www.bkauto.com/corvette/r9130.php

Hmm, My rear tires rub the front of the fender lip on launches and hard acceleration. The front of the tire only sits about an inch or less from the front fender lip when sitting still. I was thinking it was all in the squat and large tires. I welded in large gussets in my LCA to hopefully prevent any deflection on launch. Looks like I will be ordering poly bushings. BTW I am running the 255-50-16 MT ET Drag radials.

Sorry, I posted the part to the one I bought for my 6 bolt 300ZXTT R230, thinking it was the same.

Mike, You can buy it at powertrain industries. Caution... when you get your DS made make sure you ask if they have the proper adaptor to balance the DS with this flange on it. For example, Denny's Driveshaft does not. Inland Empire does, but don't get the standard slip yoke from IE, they use a cheap one. Jody www.powertrainindutries.com (714) 893-4585 7532 Anthony Ave. Garden Grove, CA 92841 Part #3102-42 ~ $ 97.00

Nazar, re-read post#5 ! That is an LT1350.com modified harness.