Owen

blue_leaf, sorry i missed your PM. i didn't make any molds of the vents tho i should have. it's on my to do list but i have not considered selling them as i would lose the "unique factor". but..i am short on money, if enough people would buy them... the other vents shown above may be an alternative. but i doubt they would fit the curvature of the z hood exactly, mine do! thanks davy for letting me know about this thread!

I was recently considering an HTP plasma cutter...after all the research I did, I ended up buying a Thermadyne Cutmaster 38. I had a hell of a time once trying to get a CRAFTSMAN mig fixed. Took like 4 months and broke again the same night I got it back. My deciding factors were: Specs- 1/2" quality, 5/8" sever Price- MC625 is like $1400. Warranty- one year Construction- imported parts? Thermadyne Specs- 1/2" quality, 5/8" sever Price-$1090 w/free shipping Warranty-3 years on the box, 1 year on the torch Construction- US made? Hopefully I did all my homework and made the right choice!

Didn't have to go far! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320 Coulda sworn I saw a weight for the 13B twin turbo somewhere tho...

I believe Cozy was just considering the engine itself. I recently realized those damn iron plates are pretty heavy when I rebuilt my rotary. It'd be nice to have some of those aluminum ones:-)

Hmm, there was a long list online of different engine weights, can't find it now...I thought I remember the 13BT being pretty heavy. Who knows?

It's also not gonna drop the weight of the car, a fully loaded 13B weighs as much as a cast iron small block ford with aluminum heads IIRC. The LSx engines are lighter.

"How can a typed phrase "sound" one way or another." Simple, it's up to the reader. There's no facial expressions, no tones or pitches of the voice. For all I know, this guy could have meant what he wrote in a joking tone. What I was thinking when I read his reply... "That's the second time I've seen you do that on this forum. ***Good for you, your eyes are open and your memory circuits are intact. Are you stalking me??? I'm not saying any truths should be covered up, just saying he sounded condescending. What if he wrote, "I think (passive) you're wrong. You might (passive again) be getting that bodykit mixed up with AAA's bodykit, there are some noticeable differences. "Sounds" way different to me! Makes me think the guy who posted it is humble yet intelligent and informed as well as likeable:-) "People need to be a bit more thick-skinned when putting information up on a forum where they WILL be called by someone with more knowledge, experience, or access." I agree totally. But still, people reading should probably take everything with a grain of salt too, that not everything posted is fact.

It's always good to see there are people who know all the facts down to the very last detail. If this were zcar.com... Maybe you should try to sound a little less "historian-like" when you correct somebody. Or better yet, just PM them.

I am SO going to do this to one of my other cars! My Z I painted in the garage and as mentioned, it was a PAIN just to set up everything. As well as telling the neighbors "I don`t know" when they asked me what that smell was! To those who sprayed this stuff, what size nozzle did you use? I ve seen people spray auto paint with the cheapy Harbor Freight gun which has a big nozzle. I only used it for high build primer and sprayed color and clear with a name brand gun.

You're absolutely correct, and it's even advertised as a PIPE bender as everyone knows. But we at HybridZ just have to "make it work", other wise it would be too easy:-)

Jon, we did the bends with heat but no sand. We only needed two, maybe we got lucky? After my last post earlier, I had to leave with the wife to go see the new Bond movie. I guess it was good, I was thinking more about this post than the movie! A Hybrid Z-er to the end! During the movie I wondered, if I were to cut a length wise slit in a tube and then hose clamp it tightly around the tube to be bent, would that prevent kinking a little? The slit would mainly be for easy removal after the bending.

A friend and I split the cost on one of these as well. We did some bends for his cage with what Jon used and made some nice 45s, but 90s are a huge pain. We just heated the tube and pumped the cylinder real slow. I have had zero luck with thin wall tubing, steel and aluminum. The last time I tried it, I wrapped a dozen or so hose clamps in the bend area to try to prevent the tube squishing outwards, no good...damnit. I wonder if it has to do with the shape of the die? The proper benders seem to have more of an arc to them.

Can you take any pix of the gnose, close up? What the hell is wrong with it?

It spins! I didn't do a damn thing! I better start saving for a new starter tho.

Thanks guys, My jumper cables are heavy as hell! Well made cables! Anyway, if the running car AND the 75A boost aren't enough (when it was before) it's gotta be the starter... I'll try some more tonite.

Yeah, I thought of that. But was too lazy and hooked up the 75A booster instead. That should get me enough current right?

I don't know...the gear on the starter shows wear marks but that may be from when it was working. Maybe I'll put a little liquid paper on and try again. I've taken this damn thing out more than 15 times already.

Don't these Miller, Lincoln, etc helmets have replaceable parts? What exactly fails on them that you have to trash the whole helmet? And how much are those Jackson ones? I couldn't find a price list on that site.

My bad, I DID have it jumped to another running car and no luck. I tried again today with another car. The thing is FUBAR.

Can someone post pix of their bad/wavy parts they received? From what I remember, even MSA stuff doesn't fit all the time. I'm betting that these "suppliers" don't have their processes and/or materials right. I am by no means anywhere near an expert, but I do know how hard it is to make a perfect mold and then pull a perfect piece from that mold. I wonder if these shops are just selling their practice pieces, or old inventory?

No way to fix this huh? At least not without spending enough money to buy another starter... Thanks for the advice guys! Wait, instead of a new thread, what causes this crap to happen. Heat most likely, and age? I should get a nitrous spray bar and aim it at the starter!

Yeah, under load is where it's F-ed. That's what i'm trying to figure out how to fix...wiring's ok, no crud or corrosion in the starter itself, I can't take the solenoid apart...what a POS.

I have a push button, it's handheld.

No battery!

seriously...WTF is wrong here??!! My starter made the dreaded clicking sound, it's 4 months old and I have no receipt. So I took it apart and bench tested it. Works like it's supposed to. So I reinstall it...CLICK! WTF!?! Actually I KNEW this was gonna happen cuz I have become pretty good at pedicting my own dumb luck. So I take the starter out, set it on the floor, reconnect my wires...and it works! Note: -all electrical power was fed from a jump starter thingy (75amp) that plugs into the wall -solenoid activation was done both with in-car switch as well as with a handheld push button starter switch -I'm using a Ford remote solenoid which works fine -the engine is not seized All I can guess is that when I re-install it, it shorts + power directly to thestarter body and then to ground. OR it is too weak to spin the flywheel..which is odd since it was spinning the motor two weeks before all this happened... This is so stupid.