Owen

I consider that the first test, and the one I have now the second one. There's gotta be a better way... Most likely will sacrifice passenger side floor space and widen the tunnel more on that side. Another low point is where the pipe goes under diff area... Maybe I should plumb the exhaust into the subframe connectors? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Great, just great. I wonder what I did with the receipt for that Fram filter... Thanks for the info though! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Geez, I try to pass on some info to someone who was asking for it and the thread explodes! I wouldn't use the T-56 behind one of those either, unless you are blowing trannies left and right like a Mitsubishi Eclipse. There are aftermarket import trannies too, HKS, TRUST, etc, but big-big bucks! Hey Mike, justa question, but I wonder if the new ZF trannies are any good? Saw an add for their company in Automotive News and they used the words "small", "lighter", etc. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I'm running 3inchers from Block Huggers under a T-56. But I have the pipes up front join under the oil pan and then go rearwards under the passenger side. I did this because I could get no ground clearance under the slave cylinder. You can see a picture of this towards the middle of the page. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/exhaust.htm I was so pissed but it was also so hilarious I had to take a picture! As for the wheel rim clearance issue, when I got pulled over for lowering, they said if I got a flat, I would be dragging the engine on the ground or something like that. Best answer I've heard so far! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I think I still have mine...I'll check. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Mike Kelly had mentioned in an earlier post an issue of volume for the slave cylinders. It seems this is true, "GM has managed to designed a hydrolic system that doesn't have much in the way of tolerances. I suspect this may have something to do with the Mexico manufactured Tremec (T-56) trannys in the later Z28s, but that's conjecture (perhaps variant postion of the slave mount?). GM has changed the hydrolic design 3 times in 4 years due to these issues. The most recent change, the "288" slave is another attempt to fix clutch problems.. So is the "Z06" clutch. Looks like GM is making cars that upon clutch replacement, have a clutch that is displaced too far (does not completely engage) - slippage - or not far enough (can't disengage) - hard shifting. McLeod has designed different slaves and different slave shims, but it really is a process of "trial and error" and depends on your car! *The missing end of this puzzle is probably the master cylinder, which needs to be designed to displace a specific amount of fluid* I'm told that this is the solution to MY problem.. A slave with a smaller bore would work also, but would result in increased pedal pressure.." I can't remember where this came from. But if the T-5 has less volume, it might work out for the best. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

My slave cylinder for the T56 is leaking, guess I did a bad job following Mike Kelly's tech article. It's leaking at the plastic threaded part. Not when it's just sitting for a while but when I actually pump the pedal...I really need another alternative cuz I'll probably just screw up if I try the same thing again. Summit has a pull type slave with metal threaded fittings. Anyone hear anything about this? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Try searching the other big long post in the archives for that diagram. It is true you can run the LED at different voltages but three functions might be more pain than its worth if these things are only 5 bucks. ? Will these things stand up to vibration in the car? There's actually specs for these in the auto industry. I did some messing around too, http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/elec.htm Did some more but havent written anything up yet. All I know is that I hate soldering and would rather MIG weld these LEDs on! I'm also investigating using those wedge type bulbs and sockets for the lites. Anyone hear anything good or bad about these? ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Cool!...Whats a Sterling??? ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I noticed in other posts that some of you guys like Scottie have a line lock. I see these for pretty cheap in Summit's catalog. Are they hard to install? I've already installed a brake prop valve in the cockpit, where would the line lock go in the brake system? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

What about older Jag diffs? A turbo book I had mentioned these things stand up to 600HP, don't know about the torque though. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Thanks Pete! ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

PepBoys, Autozone, whatever...they have pre-wired ones or the ones you do yourself. Mine were roughly $5 each? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Lone, The harness I have wires up just fine. I yanked out the old harness, leaving most of the components in place (dome light, door switches, rear defroster, etc) and then just laid out the new harness which is all labeled and color coded. The harness is for the headlites to taillites, no engine room harness except for alternator, etc. If you have EFI you need a separate harness. You're right though, the old diagrams are impossible to read. I need to do some re-wiring for my wiper motor and stuff but I can't read the print! Im gonna scan my manual and enlarge the image in Photoshop. I have the Ideal Z manual on cdrom but its PDF and kinda blurry too... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hee Hee! you got that right! Actually I think this thing comes stock on Volvos and it is a part that fails! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Are YOU the Craig I bought that manual on CDROM from? J/K. Yes I am the same...I don't remember how that started, it was just one of the things on my list and I guess I searched for it. I was thinking about the same motor cuz I have a CRX right now. The guy and some others replied with some part numbers and prices. I ripped out the center console too so I need to figure out somewhere to mount the controls. I don;t really care though, I just want heat to blow on my windshield to defrost it. The rest of the car will gradually warm up....from the heat from the floor! I also plan to look at taking my turn signal/wiper switches off the CRX too, once I see how they are mounted. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

you're right! that IS strange! anyway, nice pics, what year car and what year brakes? I have a '73 with 83 calipers and rotors. Sway bar hits the caliper ebrake mount... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hold on just a minute there! I'm waiting for Pete's info on how to calibrate the Autometer gauge senders! Poor Pete... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I wonder what this thing does... http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/bulbsen.htm Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I'm planning to get a cheapo paint job someday, under $600. This might be a good way to protect it? http://www.stongard.com/sgcontent/default.asp I'd be worried about how the rest of the car paint fades though... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

This is last on my list too...but doesn't JC Whitney sell a kit for a brand new install? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I had no idea! Good thing I already have the 73 bracket...but, if I switch to a R200 (haven't done so yet) will this change things further? I already have the shaft made for the stock R180 length.... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I have the 18-circuit harness and mounted the fuse block on the wall near the drivers foot rest, next to the clutch pedal. I wanted to install it in the stock location but it was too big. I don't know if the plastic wedge fuses are better than the glass tubes performance wise, but you will have more options in adding more wires with the PW block. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Someone was asking about this before, mating a 6-speed to an L28 or something. Sorry if this is old news but someone on zcar.com asked them if it was possible and this company says they can do it. http://www.zfdoc.com/ They also say they have a race proven ZF 6 speed that can take over 220MPH punishment, Mike Kelley? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

IMHO, 73 was the last year for the 240Z, mine is a '73 240Z. A '74 would be a 260Z. This only matters if you care about smog laws I guess. As for the 300ZX, the diff can be used easily. The PITA diff is from the '88SE. '84 is 4 lug? You can use the front rotors and possibly the calipers too? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html