Owen

I was looking at these, but they weren;t the low impedance ones I needed. Or was it the other way around? They were low impedance but I needed high? Either way, make sure theyre what you need before buying them. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Oh yeah, gimme a turboed 3 liter RB26DETT anyday, or the Supra. It just depends on where you race, top-end or off the line? That movie whatever its called looks pretty stupid, all this love story crap and stuff in between the race scenes. I'll wait until it comes out on video. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

OK, I'm noting all this, just waiting to see how many. Yeah, Mike, giving you a couple of copies is a good idea. When the time gets close we should have a HybridZ get together. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Did some checking at Jameco.com and found some 1 candella red LEDs for $0.12 ea for 100 or more. These are 1.7V, 20mA, 5mm diameter, should be just right. I am planning this, top parking lite/brake section: 1 or 2 separate cards of 30 LEDs x 4 LEDs. lower parking lite/turn signal section: 22 x 3 LEDs Questions: How do I wire to drive at 2 different voltages? Just use a resistor at the main input of one of the wires? Do I need a voltage regulator? Where can I find that perforated board stuff? Minus the boards, should cost about $45 bucks for both tail lites. Gotta learn to solder better though... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

How about going through the firewall and up towards the ceiling, towards the back, thru the floor in the rear and out the back. A heated rollcage! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hey Mike, Did ya get my check? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Ok, here is what I'm gonna do since there are so many people who want this. DIVX is easy for me to do, but I don't have the entire movie in DV format. Also, since there are a total of 4 or 5 parts, a long video tape would be the way to go. They have an 8hour VHS tape out now which would be great. So, who wants a copy..and who has two video decks to help make copies for others? I can make copies for the SoCal guys, and Hoover can do it for the NorCal guys. But some of you guys out on the otherside of the country...we need some volunteers. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

If it's a drag car, your friend probably has it for safety reasons at the track. Either that or he thinks it's cool. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

OK, finally got some stuff uploaded, threw this together last nite so it may be hard to read. Turn up your monitor because the pix are dark too. The JC Whitney part nos. are: 12BU4336P 16-LED, Red Just barely big enough for one section of the tail light. 88BU9639A 12-LED, Amber Not worth buying, no brightness. Yeah, some of those truck lights are expensive. Even bare LED board assemblies cost close to $30. But unless someone can solder some up cheaply, I'm going with the pre-assembled boards. No time to do the soldering myself. At Fry's Electronics, Linrose bare LEDs were available but still high dollar. Resistors were like $2 per pack of 100. B4310H41 $3.49 Red, 3 candella B4310CH1 $0.99 Red, 1 candella BCMD333UWC $3.89 White, 2 candella BCMD2040UWC $3.59 White, 1 candella Even though some of these go to 3 candella, there wouldn't be enough viewing angle to light up the entire lens, which is like 7" long. I think these can be found cheaper online, if anyone has the ability to solder some boards together. See my initial tests here. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/elec.htm Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html [This message has been edited by Owen (edited March 27, 2001).]

I used Aircraft remover, found at auto parts stores. Then switched to some other kind I got at Home Depot cuz it was easier to brush on in thick coats than to spray it. Total cost was about 60 bucks done in 2-3 weeks with a couple of chemical burns... I stripped down to the bare metal, good thing too cuz body filler was hiding holes and dents and rust spots. I ran a magnet over the body before stripping it to locate those spots. If the magnet doesn't stick, theres something wrong under the paint. RX7260, you would recommend Maaco for a basic street car? I don't want to spend more than $1000. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

On the Radiantz, I sent an email cuz the engineer wasnt around, I asked for brightness ratings in candella. Will post more when I know. Scott, I have a whole couple of pages typed out and waiting to upload, once my FTP program decides to start cooperating... I didn't use the LED bulb replacements, I heard they suck. Plus my other problem is the connections in the sockets/bulbs themselves. I bought some LED assys from JC Whitney, the kind that uses double sided tape to stick to the exterior of the car. Short story is, the ambers provide no lite. The reds are very bright and one 12-LED strip (or was it 16?) was enough to light up the tail lite (one section as seen from back) as much as the brighter of the dual filament bulbs. I'll try and upload the pages tonite. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Around here the dealers are expensive so I got mine at the local auto parts store. The pre-wired ones are more expensive than the build your own ones. I think we did reach a consensus right Mike Kelly? At the end of the post? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

0-25PSI shouldnt be that much for an electrical...except they require isolators and even then some won't rules don't allow the gauge in the cockpit. I'm using an Intellitronix electrical, 0-100PSI, about $80 I think. The sender T's into the line and electrical wires run to the gauge. The send cost around $30. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

0-25PSI shouldnt be that much for an electrical...except they require isolators and even then some won't rules don't allow the gauge in the cockpit. I'm using an Intellitronix electrical, 0-100PSI, about $80 I think. The sender T's into the line and electrical wires run to the gauge. The send cost around $30. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

This was on Speedvision last week. Oh my gawd! That twin turbo Camaro! 200mph street car! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

How about a message asking to search the archives first before posting? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Anyone know of a good way to clean up the smoky/dirty tail lenses? I saw some brand new ones at Motorsport and they looked so good! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I removed the dash and made small brackets on my 73. Same problem with the brightness too, I just took pictures the other nite and I could barely see the stock gauge (fuel/volts) AND the color is different! One thought was to install a dimmer, the other thought was to install/apply some of that stick on window tint stuff. That'll hopefully keep people from wanting to break into my car. I can't remove the dash again cuz of my rollcage, or i at least dont want to try... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

one more http://www.varad.com/pnc.htm ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

The solution for the front curved lenses? http://www.radiantz.com/flexarrayspictures1.html Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

We had a big thread going on LEDs for tailites, did anyone come up with anything? I don't have a lot of time so I ordered some running lite/brake light assemblies and ripped them apart to get to the LEDs. Amber Super brights were barely visible...the reds however were really bright but I wouldn't be able to use them up front. I actually got the reds to slide into the bulb hole of the tail lite and it was the same or a little brighter than the stock bulb. This was with no strategic placement or aiming of the bulbs, so it looks like I've found the way to go for the tails. Now to find some cheaper ones, either that or learn to use a soldering iron, can't be much harder than MIG welding right Now for the front lenses...I have both clear and orange lenses and wanna use them both (not at the same time), so I'm figuring on really bright orange lenses. I took a lot of pictures but my FTP software is on the blitz. Q: If I have 2 wires, park and brake, going to a single LED string, would putting a resistor on one wire before the LEDs enable me to run the string at 2 different voltages? I will have resistors for the LEDs, either each LED or groups of 4 to 5. I could always run 2 separate strings too... Anyone else come up with anything? Owen

http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum7/HTML/000009.html Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I hope you guys start a big long thread on this or write a tech article! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I remember you saying something about posting info on how to get our Autometer gauges to work correctly. Any word on this? Thanks. Owen

I used the universal window and door kits sold by Summit. Real easy to do, what a no brainer! All you need is a good window regulator with good teeth. Make sure your doors match, my car had one 73 door and one 74 door, when i bought new regulators one side didnt bolt up! Door locks are easy too,I got rid of the latch pull thingy. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html