Dan Juday

Thanks to Stealth-Z! Sold me a practically perfect, complete, three piece valance at a give-a-way price. And thanks for sharing your project with me. That's going to be a one of a kind GS31 (did I get that right?).

The 240's didn't have them. They're a 280 thing, a good thing. I made mine out of some very thin aluminum. If you have fiberglass fenders you need the guards/fenderliners to protect from rock damage.

Has anybody noticed that front fender vents are coming back as a styling trend in new cars? Several of the new high performace cars coming from Japan are sporting vertical slits that tend to follow the shape of the back side of the wheel arch. I wonder how many of these are funtional?

The heck with that Alex! The kindest thing you can do for the guys here, and everyone else, is to expose this fraud. His warranty is useless. He's mad at you because you showed him his shoddy work. He'll never fix it, even if it falls off the car. Through it away, cut your losses and start over. I know it hurts to hear that but you are pioneering. There is always a lot that kind of thing with custom work. Now name this scumbag for the sake of other potential victims.

Dang! Must be old age. I switched to bottled water years ago. Remember Larry? I said I thought you looked handsome and you wacked me with that bottle of Crystal Geyser? Hey thanks guys. Mario and Fancypants, let me see what Stealth has first since he's local. Stealth, how's this Saturday? I'd be happy to pay for gas, or I could come up to see you. You have more than one valance? I'm looking for a good stock 280 valance, not a 240.

All three pieces. In good to very good condition. To ship to 94571. Sorry mods if this is in the wrong place. I went to the classified section to post a "want to buy" ad but all I could find is a "want to sell" ad. Didn't we have a "want to buy" section?

http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/danjuday/danjuday.html

I have SubtleZ front fenders with 265/50/15's on 8" rims with 4" backspacing. There is plenty of clearance and I can lower it as far as the coilovers allow with no rubbing. As far as quality: I don't think you can find fiberglass pieces as fine as John's for less than twice the price.

http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotivedetails.htm

Perfect! This is exactly what I was going to say. This also drove me nuts. Then I figured out that I needed a little more rotation on the scissor hinges. Let us know how this works for you.

Dang Honda! Ripped me off again.

Did you read the part were the eviromentalist is advocating drowning the blind? That's not hate speah, no.

There you go. SubtleZ fronts and YZ rears. Both were masaged a little to make for a better match. Alex has some more shots of my car on his site www.datsunracing.com but you have to hunt around for them. I posted this shot because I like the angle. Yes, that's me in the background. A little less gray and 50 lbs. heavier.

Hopefully you've done some searching. This has been discussed here several times. Yes, it's been done. Back in the '70 you could even buy a kit, but not anymore. Rory Bateman, designer/builder of the TomahawkZ cars, adapted the T-top roof from an S130 (280ZX) to his four piece top for the S30 cars (240Z-280Z). In a conversation we had a few years ago he said he was surprised at how similar the size and lines of the roofs of the two different cars are. Based upon Rory's work, this is the route I would take if I wanted to T-top an S30. If you take it to a bodyshop to do the work expect to bring large Hefty bags full of cash with you.

Did you read that? Man, I'm glad I'm not a purist. Talk about pickin' at nits. (shouting to classiczcars.com) They all look the same from the outside guys!

I'm at about 250hp/300tq. I'm very pleased with the WCT5. I wouldn't trade it for anything else. It shifts smoothly and accurately and the gears are well spaced with a 3.70 rearend. And with the .63 5th gear I get 21mph highway. I did an LT1/T56 swap for a friend. The LT1 is a great motor and, IMHO, the best swap into an S30. But, also IMHO, the T56 is more tranny than you need in the light Z. Combine the broad torque curve of a sbc V8 and the light weight of the S30 and I just got lost in all the gears. And the T56 is subtantially heavier tha the T5. But if you're going over 350hp and are banging gears the T56 will take it. Other than aftermarket/race trannies with a much higher buy-in there are no other choices for an o.d. manual tranny.

As far as finding a boot that fits, I used a generic Napa auto parts boot. At the time, five years ago, they offered two sizes. The large one worked fine for me. It's kind of cheesy looking especially when you consider it was designed to be the only thing there and visible from the interior. I have a nice vinyl boot over top of it. Davy, if you think you really need to use the Corvette bell housing because the angle bothers you come drive my car first and then decide if it's really an issue.

Sounds like the front diff mount went away and the drive shaft u-joint is hitting the parking break mechanism. It makes that ratcheting sound.

"Quick Dan, save this thread from the dreaded T.S.!" O.k., back on track. Like Scott Trotter, I have the same set-up and did the same trimming of the tunnel opening and shortening of the shifter shaft. I like the off-set of the shifter toward the driver. I think the positioning is perfect for driving with drama. Just feels good, dang it. I recently drove a friends 356 Speedster kit/replica. It's a spectacular reproduction for <$30k. I was very impressed with the quality but the shifter was all out of whack. It would work well for a guy with four foot arms and an extra elbow. Maybe that is how the original came, but cripes! After two blocks I wanted to park it and just look at it. A fast car has to feel good in your hands. B.J.'s laser dot on the rear crossmember is just about right as well. You wont get a perfect alignment (and you don't need it). If you choose not to use the front crossmember spacers it will be harder, with the T5, to get the tailshaft of the tranny up high enough to get good angles. Use a Ron Tyler diff mount and notch out the top of the rear crossmember and you can get small, equal angles and no vibration. An aluminum driveshaft helps too.

6.) Put some space between me and Dan Juday.

My fan controller is always powered. The fan will run for about three minutes after I shut the motor down and pull the key out. I thought this would be benificial on a hot shut down but if your cooling system is set up properly it probably doesn't matter.

I agree, a starter relay is way overkill. GM makes some great relays. They are five wire SPDT. Almost all GM cars after 1990 have at least two mounted to the firewall or fenderwells. Five bucks each or less at any junkyard. Pick the ones with the biggest wires coming off them and you'll be fine.

Any HVAC supply house will have all types of flare and NPT brass fittings and adapters. 1/8. 1/4, 3/8, ect. (except metric). I probably have what you need on my service truck. Refrigeration systems are put together with these fittings and they are designed to work with hundreds of pounds of pressure.

That is a standard 1/4" flare service "T" found at any HVAC supply house. I pay about $3 wholesale for them. You can get them male/male/female, male/female/female, male/male/male, with or with out schrader cores and depressors.

Very nice! Terry probably wont be too upset. He may have gotten the idea from another car. One piece of advice: If those headlight buckets are stock FRP you may have some issues. I did the same thing and the seem at the fender keeps showing through the paint. It's been fixed three times now and it keeps coming back. Everything was done right. The only thing we can think of as to why it keeps coming back is the material differance between the two parts. This next time I'm using Reaction Research fiberglass headlight buckets as well as John's fenders. And buddy, line up your DZUS fittings!