Dan Juday

The Camaro didn't have a filler tube vent? Hmm, that seems odd. Late model cars don't want to vent vapors to atmosphere for emission concerns. I'll have to pull out my f-body book and do some studying.

The shape of every panel is wrong. And the dash is just hokey.

You have me considering these instead of the Stewart Warner set I'd planned on. Compared to the S-W's $660 is a bargain. I was looking at about $800 for five gauges and sending units (as needed). Then I still needed to install turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, and parking break indicator. With the Dakota digital set you get six gauges and all the sending units and I don't have to change my fuel level sender. And the indicator lights are already installed. Plus: That leaves the small gauge holes open for fuel pressure, clock, AFR, etc. Minus: That leaves the small gauge holes open for fuel pressure, clock, AFR, etc. (more money to spend!) Keep us posted Mat. I'm very interested.

Yes it will. I had the same problem. Real embarrassing when people are staring at your car and the pump pukes up raw gas all over your big blue fender. I used an existing top vent the Suzuki tank had in it already. It's small, like 3/16". The bigger the better. And try to run it on a steady grade back to the tank without any droops in it. If I fill up on a grade with the right side of the car lower than the left the vent line gets a slug of liquid fuel in that droop and basically plugs it. I know this because it pukes up again like it did before I ran the vent line. Also, try and mount the other end of the vent line as high up as possible on your filler tube. You want to make sure it is at least above the end of the pump nozzle when you're filling.

I'm not buying it. In the five plus years I'm been on this site I've personally responded to theads like this at least three times WITH PICTURES. How can that be vague? I'm not the only one. Several others have posted pics and explained their set-ups in detail. You guys need to search better.

The Zena site is the one I was referring to. Looking over their site I only see a DC generator and no mention of an AC unit. That monster from Harbor Freight is way bigger than I need. And yes, mounting could be an issue. I've stopped buying stuff from them too. It seems I end up throwing away about half the things I buy from them. The quality of so many of their items is so poor that there is little to no value at any price. I need close to 2000 watts continuous power to run a couple pumps and compressors. I need the surge power to about 4000 watts for motor starting.

Sorry, non-Z related. I'm trying to find a belt driven, engine mounted 120 volt AC/15 amp/60Htz generator for my service van. I know I could use a RV type generator but I'm trying to save space and keep things simple. I don't know if anyone makes such an animal but you guys seem to know of so many strange items I thought I would ask. I did see that post here about a mobile welding unit that uses a belt driven, engine mounted DC generator to power it. In fact, that's where I got the idea.

Nice work Rob! I've been reading this thread with great anticipation of the final results. I love how this has been a multinational design collaboration of the international Z brotherhood. I have also enjoyed trying to cypher what some of your more esoteric English expressions might mean. Lots of good clean fun. I have a question for you regarding locating the new diff vertically in the new subframe. What motor and transmission are in your car? Those of us who have installed American V8's in our Z's find that the transmission output shaft is significantly lower in the car than the the original. So to get acceptable u-joint angles we need to raise the rear and or lower the nose of the diff. You may want to do some calculations based on the angle and location of your trannies tailshaft before fixing in steel the height and angle of the diff. Even then I would suggest building in some adjustability. My other thought on this is your screw in mounting bolt sleeves. Sorry to be critical, but I'm not keen on this idea. I understand the need to vent the tube for hot dipping. But my mind sees these things loosing up after some time on the road. The stress on them working the plating off where they meet the tube and causing the hole to open up and corrode. This may be an unrealistic worst case scenario, but if it were me I'd weld them on and drill a small vent hole in the top of the tube and fill it with a glob of goop just before I installed the subframe for good. At the very least weld three of them in and just screw in the last one. To leave you on a positive note: props for your first time welding. Much better than my first scratches! EDIT: Also wanted to give you a pat on the back for recognizing Mr. Tylers work in this area. An excellent, effective, and simple design that works wonderfully. Using his drawing I made one for my car that solved two problems at the same time.

I did the same thing but for different reasons. I very rarely drive my Z faster than 80. Truth is, I hang around the speed limit. But with my airdam blended into the fenders I was concerned about the pressure on the fiberglass airdam at highway speeds cracking the joint open where it's bonded to the fender. I used thickish aluminum, maybe 18 gauge, and made the same type of "shelf" as a support. If you have a urathane airdam maybe what you are feeling in improved stability above 100mph is that the airdam is now holding shape and not bending over from the pressure and letting the air spill under the car. Just a guess, I know very little about the aerodynamics of the Z car. But it seems I remember a thread several years back about how much airdams can distort at high speeds/air pressures. The way to tell for sure is to barrow Hanns' fender mount video camera and do some high speed before and after runs.

Unfortunately I'm going to miss it this year. I'll be in Tyler Texas on business that weekend. Say hi to John and the boys for me. I had a lot more fun at the Knott's show than that stupid MSA show last year.

I think the best part of the videos was listening to the two motors fading in and out of rev sync while he was pasting that 911. That is the coolest sound! Okie engineering? Your not giving that guy enough credit. Did you read what was involved in the fabbing of the rear of the car for the second power train? Or how about the dual shift linkage set-up. I'd happily let that Okie work on my car.

It depends on the insurance company. I don't think Hagerty would go for it, three cars for four drivers. And they state clearly that the classic car they insure can't be used for commuting to and from work or school. My policy with them has no mileage limitations but clearly states how the car can be used.

Wow! What a kick. The snow day and beating the 911 where the best videos. The time-lapse of the Rocco going down was good too. For as easy as that guy makes it look he has a lot of talent.

The rain is supposed to start again today and run all week with Wednesday and Thursday being the heaviest. River levels expected to rise to flood stage or above in several places in the delta and southern Central Valley locations. I have never seen the levees so saturated since we moved here. Granted, that was after the '97 floods. I'm betting we are going to see several more levee breaks before the end of this week. Sure glad now we didn't buy that house on Brannon Island, elevation -8'. Peace of mind comes at +22'

"Latches? Latches! We don't need no stinking latches!" Pin that bad boy down.

BFG used to offer the Euro TA in sizes up to 305/50/15 but not any longer. This was a good compromise compound for a street car. I have those on the rear, and 265's on the front. I hope by the time I ware them out someone will make a reasonable replacement.

Another common problem is the fuel level sender. The original design is somebodies pipe dream. The replacement is a conventional type. New from Courtesy Nissan: Fuel Tank Gauge Assembly For Analog Gauges - 1984 - 1988 300ZX Code:25060-Z31AN Price: $82.66 Fortunately Nissan put a hatch plate in the rear floor so you can change it without dropping the tank.

I did the same thing to myself two weeks ago with my megohm meter. DAMN that hurt! And that was only 500 volts. It's very amusing watching your hand hold down the button that's causing you so much pain and you just can't let up.

And just think of all those "rust-free" California Z cars. I bought that convertable just in time, eh?

The issue with a pan with kick outs is room for the exhaust routing. Pulling it out and replacing it are no problem with the motor in place. I've done this as well on my car. Made changing the oil pump a walk in the park.

Did anyone see the bump steer spacers they sell? "They are computer numerically control (CNC) machined to a tolerance of 0.7500" thick." Plus or minus 3/4", close enough.

Hum...right. I see your point. And yes, like you I thought the camber changed direction at the point the LCA's go level. I'll have to dig through Terry's old posts and get edgamacated. So by raising the strut towers all you are doing is relocating the upper pivot point. That may give the camber curve a different characteristic but wont necessarily buy you anything beneficial. It may actually make things worse by increasing the distance between the upper pivot point and the LCA inner pivot point. It would save you the cost and work associated with strut sectioning for what that's worth. Man this gets complicated!

Please don't delete this thread! While flipping the isolator over is a bad idea, the concepts here are interresting and creative. I have yet to section my rear struts (I don't have near the bottoming problems I had with the front) and raising the rear strut towers may be a better way of lowering the rear of the car. PREFACE: I am no suspension expert! But compared to strut sectioning, this would give you more suspension travel. And wouldn't this allow for less camber change over the same vertical travel? John, Jon, and all others who understand this stuff better than me, please chime in.