Dan Juday

It's $120,000.00. That bears repeating. It's $120,000.00. Forgive me if I sound rude. Unless your making a joke in this thread you look like an idiot. Nothing personal. It's just that... It's $120,000.00.

In open loop the O2 sensor is taken out of the fuel control process. The voltage from it will still fluctuate with changes in the air/fuel ratio. It's just that the ECM doesn't see them anymore. The reason is that there are times (like Moby points up) when you don't want a 14.7/1 mixture. These times would be when the engine hasn't reached it's operating temperature or when it's at wide open throttle. These times you want the AFR richer so the ECM uses it's other sensors and it's tables to control fuel flow. Just try disconnecting your O2 sensor and see what it does for fuel economy. (Disclaimer: With the current price of gas this is an expensive experiment!)

Get yourself a $10 mechanical pressure gauge and T it off your oil pressure sensor. I too got a scare one day when I fired up the Blue Bullet and saw ZERO OIL PRESSURE!!! Just the dang 30 year old Datsun gauge, or wires, or fuse block, or some other 30 year old Datsun bit. For me it was easy. I had originally installed a remote oil filter kit so I just uncorked one of the two extra fitting on the filter mount and stubbed a cheap mechanical gauge there. Now if I get a scare I just pop the hood and check the "for sure" gauge. Here's the dumb part. When ever I have the hood open at car shows people are more impressed with the stupid $10 oil gauge than the cool looking tpi motor it's attached to. To quote a local Z bud, "stooges"!

I got a wireless mouse from my kids! I'm using right now.

Have you tried to fit the steering shaft yet? And... Where you able to check how much overlap you have at the bottom of the ports for sealing?

It depends on the type of EFI and the number of cylinders.

Molds get old too. They warp, distort, get sat on. New parts out of an old mold can be as bad as copies of copies of copies. I'm not really the spoiler/wing kind of guy but that looks nice. I second the request for more pics. And by the way: Isn't that an oxymoron?

Sequential gives you a soother idle and slightly better low rpm response. This helps somewhat with bigger cams and can also give you slightly better fuel economy at low rpms. Once the revs build the injectors are firing so frequently that the engine can't tell the difference between batch fire and sequential anyway.

That is very cool. Nice work. But if you just want to loose the bumperettes (the two black square protrutions in the main bumper) you could probably fit a bumper from an earlier Z31 that doesn't have them. Disclaimer: I have neaver done this and I don't know if all the bolt holes would be in the same place.

I think Grumpy just told you it's time you grew up. Actually, Mark only acts likes he's 25 years younger than he is. Sorry buddy, just had to pull your chain. That's a big bummer and a lot of pain. Plus being self employed you can't call in all that sick time you've got saved up. I feel for you bro. I'll remind you to the Father. Heal fast, you've got a lot of mouths to feed.

And as the eyeball swapping doc in Minority Report!

HEY! I get fumes in my Z31 ...when the top is down... ... and I'm following my S30.

Yes, it's the domino effect. When I put my front end back together it took me two weekends to get everything aligned properly. Memorial Day is coming up. Maybe you can do it in one long weekend!

The latch mechanizm on the late 260/280 is completely different than a 240 door. If it latches at all it's a 240 door. Your car may be the victim of bad body work.

Excellent, excellent photos showing the problem with those headers. I used those exact same headers as sold by Patriot a few years back. They were sold as D port type but are not. The issue is not the port matching for flow (which IMHO is a minimal benifit at best) but, like the pic illustrates, for sealing. 1/16" is not enough overlap to insure proper sealing. Thanks again for the pics. This should be a sticky on LT1 headers.

I'm no where near Orlando but when it comes to rilling fenders I'm the best in the world and nobody has ever challenged me on that.

Yes. the Tilton master will bolt right up but you will want to shorten the rod slightly per the JTR book. Also, you can now buy an adapter to fit the roll pin connection that will give you a -3AN fitting to connect up the hydraulic line. I did the drill and tap on my car per JTR and have had no problems yet but I'd buy the adapter today. I had an adapter custom made when I did Steve Cameron's Tomahawk. Sorry, I don't know who makes that adapter that's available now. I read it in a post here. Perhaps a search would help. Also, I've read here that the JTR tranny cross member will not work with the T56. But it worked great on Steve's car. His is a '78. You will want to grind off any extra protrutions on the passenger side of the tranny before hand. And yes, "clearancing" is the order of the day on the tunnel.

And it comes with a new fuel pump!

Here's a link to pics of my car on Johns site. http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/danjuday/danjuday.html The front fenders are a bolt-on. The rear fenders have to be filleted before the fiberglass gets bonded on. Do a search and you will find several threads here that explain how to do it right. Read them all.

No, definitely not one of Johns kits. It's a variant of the IMSA flares. There were two or three versions and anyone with a little talent can widen them even more.

Take it to a driveline shop and have it sectioned. Most shops charge between $100 and $150 to section and balance a driveshaft. Gotta think like a V8 guy.

I looked and and didn't see them either. Drop John an e-mail.

This is John Washingtons new product. I don't know if he has them up on his web site yet. www.reactionresearch.com I saw them in February when he delivered the ragtop Z31. They look like perfect duplicates of the stock buckets only a little lighter. I believe he told me he was going to ask $95 each for them.

An X type brace under the floor would be an excellent way of addressing twist. The problem is the lack of space. Unless you run side pipes there isn't room for exhaust and an X brace. Even then it's going to cost you valuable ground clearance. And the GTO just doesn't look right jacked-up.

As far as which year S30 ('70-'78 Z cars) to chose for your donor I would recommend '75 or later as they have a stronger (and heavier) chassis overall. If you live in California '76 and later are subject to bi-annual emissions testing which adds another layer of complication to a motor swap. However, you can apply for a specialty/replica title for the car which exempts it from testing. John includes a windshield header cap with his kit. It does not have provisions for latches. The wind shield frame does not require reinforcement. The chassis does, and his manual includes info on that. I have done this to another S30 chop-top kit and I would recommend sub-frame connectors, strut tower bracing, sill reinforcement, and sill to rear wheelhouse triangulation as well as reinforcement to the vertical section behind the seats to tie the tower, sill and wheelhouse sections all together. This may seem excessive to some people but it makes for a pretty tight car without a cage. The reason people mix and match front and rear tubs from different manufacturers is that some like a roadster, some a coupe. Some like a hood and some like a full tilt front. It's just personal preference. John Washington's products are top quality and the man is a professional to work with.