Dan Juday

I looked too, it's gone. Must have been one of the 400 or so posts of mine that got lost in the site swap. Sorry. I'll have to rewrite it and post it. This time I'll save a copy on my hard drive. Several people have asked and I guess they just think I'm a jerk for directing them to a post that doesn't exist anymore. Give me a few days to find an hour of time to rewrite it.

No marker lights. Give me that clean look. I laugh at the law!

I've got to vote without as well. Starting to verge on the "too busy" look. Perhaps if there were fewer strakes, maybe only two or three but more of a bulkier strake. You've designed bold accents into your car, one reason we all love it so, those thin little strakes are just too delicate to fit into the more substantial persona of your Z.

Check out Pete P.'s site. He has a nice write up with pics on how he mounted his Toyota mirrors. I did mine the same way. Thanks for the plan Pete!

You will need to filet your fenders to accomadate the larger tires you will be running. This can be done with a sawzall and a drill/driver if you don't have a welder. I've explained the process in an earlier post. Do a search for YZ and my name and you should find it.

Mac. You'll never go back.

Sterling. British four door sedan from the '80's based on a Honda. Maybe the first gen Acura Legend? They are even electric and heated. I gutted the electrics though. Didn't want the complication. Taking them apart I found they were made by Rover, not Honda. Being English the electric parts probably didn't work anyways. Isn't this the logo for Lucas Electrics?

I got the same e-mail from John. I encouraged him to post here. I also encouraged him to produce a "Pantera" version. Maybe he's so busy working on it right now that he doesn't have time to post? Jon, I'm thinking that the shin only version is pretty much a race application part. Get some of that extra fat open cell weatherstriping with the sticky back they sell at Home Depot. Ain't pretty but it's light.

Junk yard special.

The cheapest part of my swap was the car!

Do we need a sticky on this one? I know I've explained it at least 3 times. Len can. I can. We all can. It's called equal wheel loading, boys.

Take it easy guys. You're embarassing me. If I didn't have a fat head before I'm going to have one now. 8) Here's one last shot I like. Again, didn't make it to the mag. This shot really shows off the curve of the rear fenders well.

Here's a shot I liked that never made it to the mag. Disclaimer: This image is not for commercial use.

Slot them now before the motor goes in. You'll be glad you did later. Besides fore and aft movement they allow you to rotate the motor for more better alignment of the tranny's tailshaft. If you are using the f-body T5 with the 15* tilt it's even more important. If you don't slot you end up putting shear loads on the motor mounts. Why stress your brand new mounts?

Thanks guys, Seems kind of strange getting in a kit car mag though. Since, well... it's not a kit car. But hey, nice pics, glossy paper, and wide publication, I'LL TAKE IT!!! EDIT: Sir will be fine. No. I wont lend you money.

Stan, I can't believe you're backing out of this swap. This is a hot deal folks. If I had the cash I'd buy it right now.

O.k. nobody would bite on my bear costume wise crack so I'll give it a go. First time you pick you have a better chance of losing than winning. So odds are you picked wrong. Next pick odds improve from 1/3 to 1/2. So since you probably picked wrong the first time, and your odds are better the second time, you should change your guess. Is that about it? I aced trig and calc and loved that stuff (and have sumarily forgotten it all) but I never took statistical probability. Probably would have helped with some of the choices I've made over the years.

Hey guys, I was just looking into this yesterday. I have kept the old thread where the McMaster Carr number was listed. McMaster Carr has changed it's numbers. There is no longer a bulb location A,B, or C. They are now style 1, 2, and 3. Does anyone have dimensions of what the bulb size and leg length should be? Tim, do you have some you could measure?

$200? $1500?? $2500??? You guys don't know stress.

I miss Monty Hall. So, in this question, what costume am I wearing? I always wanted to be the big bear.

I don't know of any successful targa top conversion to a Z. We've talked about it here before but nobody seems interested enough to pursue it. I like the idea but it has significant challenges. And other than the "Wow, never seen that before" factor, what does it gain you over t-tops? Frame reinforcement is obviously the first issue to confront. Twist and flex. A roll bar that does not connect the rear shock towers to the cowl (like a four point that stays entirely behind the passengers) will do you no good. But if you install a full race 10 point cage what is the point of a targa top? The idea is to "open up" the car. A cage dose exactly the opposite. No, to do it right all the frame reinforcement needs to be hidden in the floor, sills and tunnel. If you are serious about pursuing this you should contact John Washington of Reaction Research. He sells a couple of kits for the S130, a convertible and a Daytona Spider replica. He would have excellent info on reinforcing the S130 frame without a cage. Good luck, and welcome to Hybrid.

No flame here, I like it. Know what you mean about the level. I ran into the same deal with my cap. In the end I just adjusted it several times and looked at it from every angle untill I was satisfied. Even so at some angles it still looks cockeyed.

Go to any junk yard and grab a couple of the stock GM rubber mounts from about any GM car. Some have little teets on them. Just drill a hole in the JTR bracket and pull the teet through. Some also have provisions to mount the the A/C condenser on the same rubber. Just cut that part off. If you grab four you can mount the top in the same way. Now your rad is completely rubber mounted and isolated from the vibrations that cause radiators to crack and leak. Maybe later I can post a pic if you need it.

Carefull Scott, it could still be too high. Make sure you test fit the rad with the cap on and your hood on and latched. I welded my JTR part right to the bottom of the frame rail and used the Camero/V6 van radiator with the stock rubber mounts and it came out 3/8" too high and hit the hood. Just a heads-up.