Dan Juday

I used the Tilton 7/8" with my T5. Like Tim says it's a bolt up, just shorten the rod and re-tap the Datsun piece that connects to the pedal. Check the JTR book on the length. IGNOR the JTR book when it says use a 3/4" MC. I wasted a lot of time on that one.

If your R180 is in good shape it should handle the 305 with an auto tranny just fine. I know guys here that have used R180's with 350's and auto tranny with no problems. Manuals are harder on a rearend.

The reason you want pressure in your system is to raise the boiling point of the water, just like Guy said. You don't want the water in your motor to boil. Steam will not transfer the heat from the motor to the coolant like water will. You will get hot spots in your motor where the steam collects and your water pump won't pump steam so when the steam pocket gets to the pump no more flow, bad, very bad. Also, take a look at the bottom of your cap. There is a check valve there to let coolant back into your system from the overflow tank when your engine cools off and the pressure drops to less than atmospheric. This is why you want an overflow tank in the first place. Without one, or if it runs dry, the system will suck air in when the pressure drops. As far as the antifreeze mix 70/30 water/antifreeze is fine FOR CALIFORNIA ONLY. The antifreeze is there to lower the freezing point of the water so that when the temperature drops below 32F the water doesn't turn to ice, expand, and crack your block. We don't see those temps very often and a 70/30 mix should work fine all the way to about +10F I've heard good things about the Redline water wetter. It doesn't cost that much and if it lowers your water temp it's well worth it. I've never had a high temp problem so I've never used it myself.

Mine has the heart of a Pontiac and smells like a GTO!! G.T.O.: Gas, Tires, & Oil. Stole that from my late great old mom.

That's "toO much", Mike. Guess spell check won't catch that!

"...it is appointed for men to die once and after this come judgment," Hebrew 9:27 If Mormons actually believed and obeyed the Bible they would end this absurd practice. Then again, if a Mormon read and obeyed the Bible he'd have to abandon his doctrine entirely.

Ryan, Sometime Saturday, Vincent is hard to pin down on these things. Terry, Maybe next year your car can be there too? BTW I love your new sig pic.

O.k., in defense of all us NORMAL size people (under five eight), please note that while all you big tall guys are making fun of his height he IS the CHANCELLOR OF GERMANY!! And you're working as a... what?

Some of you already know. I'll break it to the rest, my car won't be at the west coast nationals this year. I know, I know, back in December I said I'd be there for sure. Well shortly after that post I got word that I was going to part of a "cost savings measure" at work. Preparing the Z for MSA quickly took a back seat to feeding my family and paying the mortgage. Long story short: In February I bought a HVAC company here in our little town. Now I'm working like crazy to pay for it. I will be riding shotgun with Vincent, a.k.a. Hudson's Hawk down to the show and I hope to see all my SoCal buds that couldn't make it up for the Rio show. There is a consolation prize for all those who are dying to see it in person. Steve Temple of Kit Car Builder Magazine did a professional photo shoot of the car last month for an upcoming issue. They are doing a feature of Reaction Research's replicas and body kits. I don't know when it's coming out or how many photos will be devoted to my Z but they definitely will be the best shots of my car in the (near) finished stage. Sorry for letting you guys down, next year for sure.

Very nice Terry! I like the way you raked the louver sets forward in the opening rather than just slap a flat screen over the hole. Did those come off a doner car or did you fab those from sratch as well?

Wow, this seems oddly familiar.

That is a very good price. We paid $2700 for a '95 combo with more miles. Be advised though that a '96 will have an OBD II ECM.

Ya, heres a better pic.

Looking good Guy.

Scott you cheap skate! Get the coilovers, you know you want them.

This just started for me today. Went to new posts got about 100. Went to see page two, nothing there, logged me out. Logged back in now only seven new posts. Grrr. I'm using Netscape 7.x

It's not a ground. On the '78 one wire goes to the guage and the other goes to one of the fuel pump relays. Nissan used it as a way to shut off the fuel supply/engine if you ever flip the car over. FI motors will happily run regardless of the direction of gravity. Guess they saw it as a way of saving fuel. No sense running the motor with the wheels sticking up in the air. You could get a manual to check and see which is which. But the easy way is just to hook one up and see if it works. If not just switch the wires. It wont hurt the guage.

Tim, I used that speedo when I did the Tomahawk/LT1 swap. I e-mail Autometer for clearification on hooking it up. They said not to use the wire from the PCM but splice directy into the wire from the VSS. Maybe this is your problem. I used a hand held GPS when I calibrated it. Worked perfect first time.

From a mid '80's Sterling. Mounted via Pete's method.

Bill, I used the JTR method on the T5 slave with my car but I wouldn't do it again. Ron Tyler, a member here sells an adapter for about $30 that is much safer IMHO than drilling and tapping the plastic slave. It's also a bolt-on affair, much simpler and replacement parts down the road wont require customizing.

Looks good Charles. I'm pretty certain the SubtleZ cowl hood comes only with the vents. Now that you've done the work this is a bonus, you will have the only one like it! John does sell a set of cowl style vents to fit in the openings. I have these on my stock '77/'78 hood so my hood would kind of be an inverse of yours.

Actually Terry, that won't work. If you have your dizzy in the back it will hit the lower section of the stock latch. I've had no trouble with the JTR two piece bracket in my car. Hard to see with the plenum extention on, but the distributor ends up right under the latch. I understand Petes' gripe because you need to remove the two bolts connecting the two parts together to get your distributor cap off. Petes' solution is more work initially because you need to move the hood mounted portion of the latch as well. Kind of depends on how often you plan on messin' with your dizzy.

There are three types of people in the world: People that make things happen. People that watch things happen. And people that say.................,"Whaaaaw happened!?!?!?!".

Moridin has nailed it. It's the price of housing that kills out here. You won't be able to buy a home on those salaries. Even out here on the Delta prices have doubled in the last five years.

Let me see if I can offer a little clearity on why '95 is the prefered model year. Up to '94 the optispark was unvented. Moisture would condence inside it and corrode and short things out. Starting in '95 GM added a positive vent system to the optispark. A simple vacuum line with a check valve that draws clean dry air from the intake after the air cleaner through the optispark. This keeps thing nice and dry in there. Starting in '96 GM went to OBDII. The advantage of OBDI is that it is simpler and easy to tune and reprogram with an inexpensive piece of sofeware called TunerCat. All you need besides the software is a cable and a PC. '95 is the only year where these two aspects overlap.