zbloke

I really think you'd benefit from some more lift, I have a similar-ish spec engine to yours in my Z and I've got a cam with 297 deg. duration and 490" lift, drives well and pulls hard from approx. 4200rpm to the redline.......and sometimes slightly above it Only real way to know if your current cam is sufficient is too build the engine with it and see if you like it, just make sure when you do your dummy build/mock up you have enough piston to valve clearance to go to a bigger cam without carrying out any further mods, if you don't like it

I've now fitted new top strut bearings and my wheel wobble appears to to have completely gone! HTH

I had a very ill handling Z, lift off oversteer was the order of the day at most corners and the car just felt generally unstable, the biggest improvements came from better tyres, bumpsteer mod to the front cross member and front end alignment There is still room for improvement but the car is much more predictable and feels more planted on track

When I read your initial post I would have put money on the pilots being too small I was under the impression the main air jet only had an effect over a very small area at the upper end of the rev range? and going larger leaned out this area? I have PHH44's on a L24, head work, cam, 6 branch and system etc, and my airs are 210, but I do have a stumble just off idle under load, pilots screws out 2 complete turns, 360 + 360, with 57.5 pilot jets......so I've been following your progress with interest

I think 15 pushes the rack onto the pinion, I had a similar issue and careful adjustment of 17 and 18 made an improvement. I still have some wheel wobble though, the only place I can seem to find some free play or movement is in the top strut bearings?

The spherical bearings and spacers look like there for the inner end of the front lower control arm?

Everyone makes mistakes, regardless of what they do. The measure of a person or a company is how they then deal with that mistake, that's the difference between good and bad.

What AFR does your wideband show when the engine dies at about 2000 rpm? I'm pretty sure your right about the pilots being too small though, as far as I know when you've got the correct size of pilots in Mikuni's the pilot screw should be 1.5 turns out from fully seated

Thank you very much I did try searching before I asked, and thought I'd put in every possible combination of, R180, crown, wheel, bolt and size.....

Hi, Does anyone know what the differences are between the early and late R180 crown wheel bolts?

Did the OS guys give any indication of when this might happen?

Interesting, mounting the heims in a clevis at either end of the strut?

I've not got round to fitting a dump tube to the outlet of the catch can, there is another threaded fitting directly behind the one with the 90 degree elbow on it that is currently open to the elements you can just see the top of it in the second pic, I don't smell any oily/fuely fumes in the car so may just go with a breather type cap/cover for it One thing I'd really like to do though is, get the car on a dyno and pull a vac on the outlet of the catch can......see if running an open vent/non vac system is loosing me any significant HP TBH I've never noticed a milky buildup on the underside of the oil filler cap yet

I run a similar set-up to z-ya on my track Z and as yet have had no issues

You could have an air leak on the induction system, it would cause the engine to run excessivly lean and may be the cause of your problems if you've adjusted the jet heights to spec and the rest of the carb is in working order

Ok, so having a strip welded to the ARB is the way forward, I can cope with that too What are the advantages of having the drop link attached to the strut and not the bottom arm? I don't remember reading anything on that mod when I was searching the forum recently

I've currently got the OEM diameter front bar for a UK spec 240Z, I believe its 23mm, stiffer ones are available but in light of what I've read on here I don't want to go too stiff in one go but would like to try something adjustable first, drilling holes, making a clevis and sourcing the rod end bearings is an easy, cheap option for me........if the bar can be drilled?

No worries, I should have made my intentions a bit clearer in my original post. I'd like to go a bit stiffer on the front ARB but not overly stiff, reading things on here has led me to believe too stiff can be just as bad as not stiff enough, hence my intention to be cheap and cheerful with drilling the OEM bar, if this takes me in the right direction I'll consider having something made properly

Interesting, I was under the impression that if you moved the attachment point of the drop link furthur away from the end of the bar it would increase the roll stiffness, even on a stock diameter bar? I could always have a thicker tube or bar bent to shape and made adjustable if thats the best way forward

Guys, I'm thinking of making my OEM front ARB adjustable, the way I'd like to do this is drill 3 or 4 holes horizontally in the bar then have a drop link, male and female rod end bearings, attaching to a clevis on the lower arm. Question is, would drilling the ARB weaken it significantly and assuming the bar is hardened or tempered would I even be able to drill it? Is the method of shortening and then welding a flat plate to the bar a better/safer/stronger option? Opinions please

Personally I like an exhaust note that drops to virtual silence off throttle, I am biased though as my setup currently does this.......

There are ways of matching SU's needles to your particular engines requirements without buying/trying various needles from different cars

Does this mean you could tune your intake to give you bottom end power and your exhaust to give top end power?

Secret noted and stored away for future reference thanks! Has the cap been modded, some sort of alignment bushing, around the stud/bolt holes or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

Is this the thread you where looking for? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89547-how-and-where-to-install-the-adjustable-proportioning-valve/