zbloke

I'd be tempted to say the accel pump jets where too small, but having read other posts on here from ppl using Mikunis and having the same issue as yourself, its more than likely the pilot jets which are too small. You could really do with having the AFR monitored while your engine is bogging to tell you whats happening fuel wise and base your next move on the results of that test.

Kumho V70A, available in 275/40/17, hard and medium compounds too

Adjusting the Filter King pressure is pretty easy, if you remove the dome nut in the center underneath is a lock nut and set screw, slacken the lock nut and turn the set screw = adjust the pressure, just need to hook up a gauge and your sorted

That look very nice, you do know you can set/adjust your fuel pressure with the Filter King don't you?

If you have not got this already then it might be of some help to you, click on the link to go to the PHH service manual on the Mikuni site http://www.mikunipower.com/PHH01.htm

I used Millers Classic Running In Oil in mine

If new lock washers don't cure the problem maybe try some threadlocking compound, Locktite 243 or something similar?

I recently asked the same question to a Koni specialist who had shortened a pair of 86-1811's for me, his answer was something along the lines of "if you feel your running out of damper send them back to me and I'll re-valve them to suit your new springs" So I guess you can run pretty much any spring on them, I've currently got F-200 R-250 damper's set 3/4 hard all round.

I removed the stock valve and put mine in its place, access to the adjuster knob via the tool box at rear of drivers seat

This any good to you?

My ARP head studs showed a few, maybe 2, threads above the deck of the block when I fitted them, I got mine a little deeper by using a No.3 or bottoming tap on the threads in the block.

I don't think it's a Mangolesti manifold either, the Mangolesti has a slight curve to the runners and 2 square boss's, one at either end, to mount a linkage onto the one in the pic appears to have straight-ish runners and 3 round boss's for linkage mountings and, as oldhemi says, the casting web inbetween the runners is different, the Mangoletsi's I've seen all have something like 04700 or 470 cast into them somewhere too.

I used the Misab plates and Cosworth/Werner washer kits too, apparantly the plastic spacers with the rubber O rings are ok upto 40mm carbs, over that size the plastic spacer is so thin and weak the O rings don't allways make an effective seal http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/zbloke/Datsun%20240Z/28032010213.jpg

I'm sure that's a Mangoletsi manifold you have there, looks very similar to this one on the Eurocarb website

I had the same trouble when I did my rear end with poly years ago, what I did was to remove one of the "top hat" part's of the poly bush from the LCA and gently sand the face of it on a flat sheet of abrasive paper to remove a small amount of material, keep checking for clearance and removing material until the LCA is a nice snug fit around the strut

Guys, I don't know if you have seen these but they claim to reduce bending load on the shock absorber by upto 96% Hydraulic Spring Perch Any use to you? Tim

The tool can be zero adjusted to a non level floor if required, its quite a good bit of kit I use one myself As for centering the toe gauge, if you make sure the distances from the string are equal side to side for the front and rear wheels, although you could end up with front or rear being greater or less than the other due to the track measurment being different, the strings are square around the car Tim

I've converted a car from LHD to RHD, pretty easy when you get into it, some pics can be found HERE on pages 2 and 3 Tim

Some of the holes on my AZC oil pan where slightly out but with a bit of jiggling of the pan during torque down I got them all to align without having to redrill. 1 Fast, I used a 240Z pickup and did'nt find any issues with it blocking the trap doors, I checked mine for operation with the pan bolted on and shone a flexy micro torch through the drain hole and the oil temp sender hole then truned the engine side to side on the stand to make sure they where opening, where did you find yours blocking? Also, you used ARP main studs?, did you find you had to remove some material from oil pan to allow the rear main studs to clear the inner edge so the pan would move far enough forward to allow some holes to align?, I know I did Tim

Could you not drill and tap the boss to the left of the turbo return for a catch can drain? Tim

I got a set of ARP head and main studs from IPP, no problems whatsoever IMO good to deal with Tim

Downloaded the vid and have it playing in DivX, nice one texasz, Tim

Just out of curiosity how would you go about improving the drainback of the L6 heads, smooth and polish the area around the valve springs to prevent pooling of the oil?, or are there other tricks? Tim

Its just a piece of outer throttle cable cut to the length I required with some cable adjusters on either end, then a length of inner throttle cable run through it Tim

You can fit a throttle cable direct to an unmodified throttle pedal, all you have to do is unscrew the threaded short section from the bulkhead rod drill and tap 2 holes in it so you can secure the inner cable with some small Allen screws, then just make up a bulkhead blanking plate for the cable to pass through, this way you have the original ball and socket fitting onto the pedal Tim