savageskaterkid

...for the Z to find a new owner. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1978-Datsun-280z-Project-car_W0QQitemZ270270762338QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270270762338&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 Somebody is offering me an S130 that looks identical to my first Z and I really wanna trade, but something says he won't like my car as much in person, so I'm putting it on Ebay. I put that I would end the auction if it sells locally, so if the trade goes down then I'll take it down.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116573&highlight=individual+carbs Post 7 When I talked to him last year he said it was 320whp, all though I don't remember if that was an estimate or dyno proven. I believe he said it was a 3.2 liter, running on 93 octane pump gas. 13:1 compression if I remember right, I was extremely suprised to hear that. The car is a sight to see in real life.

you wanna try some really good stuff thats very similar, and not expensive at all? Search for Amsoils powerfoam, I use it on all my vehicles-you'll know its working as soon as you start the car and you see the nasty carbon being launched from your exhaust.

This is where I was talking about backpressure effecting the car in the article, and you went against that. I highly doubt the stock sentra is going to gain alot of power vs. loss of low end torque to even make it worth the while to chop off the exhaust. Maybe I'll try it on the B15 we got, its just a GXE, but maybe worth a shot, no?

Correct fuel TUNING, it never in the article that it was TUNED. Is a STOCK sentra correctly tuned to run without an exhaust? I don't think so, or is the STOCK sentra a serious race car too? Maybe the ECU compensates fuel and timing when it relises that the exhaust is gone? Didn't say backpressure was good for a turbo car at all, just said that it can negatively effect it. I'm gonna go find one article in particular where they had a full catback(some overly expensive HKS I think) on an SR-240sx. By putting on a downpipe they made (X) power and (X) torque at (X) RPM, but did loose about 1 or 2 ft/lbs off idle. I think the reasoning might be based on your statement saying that diffrent sized exhausts effect diffrent RPM ranges. Maybe the exhaust was causing it to loose torque at low RPMs because the turbo hasn't starting spoiling up enough to build boost yet(ie. still pulling vaccum)

In a civic that probably came with about 8 ft/lbs of torque(kinda sarcastic) when you drop 1, thats a HUGE deal, and forget A/c off the line without my exhaust, even my gas mileage dropped because I have to give it more throttle to move away from a stop light.

I know for a fact that lack of backpressure on a stock car(low end stock car) tends to bog. Mine does, its a civic. Maybe not in a BMW or Mercedes that have much more ECU involvement at any givin time then my EG civic, which doesn't do but so much other then a few preset commands. I doubt the sentra in question's ECU is that up to the challenge of fuel tuning stock. Or a stock manifold being used wouldn't be considered a well designed header, do you consider it a header? Not tryin to bash, but even turbo cars lose power from lack of backpressure with a very nice free flowing exhaust. Its usually a 1 hp, or ft/lb loss off idle, but makes up for it much more up top. Look up in some magazines at downpipe installs with a catback, very little power is lost due to lack of backpressure, but the upper RPM results is worth that 1 or 2 ft/lb

Lack of back pressure is killing them I'm sure, my civic's muffler rotted off and there is a diffrence of night and day. No backpressure=sucks off the line.

After the incident I've been considering the MSF course. I wasn't giving it too much speed, I froze up and decided against the corner. I relised that I can't be afraid, cause thats when I'm gonna cause a problem. I picked my own pace afterwards, but was going to slow. I told my friend to pass me and take the roads at good speed. I mimicked his angles and road position and finally got a feel for what I need to do. I was more ballsy after the incident and thats when I finally gave respect to the bike and found out what I needed to do.

Good call on the brake parts. DOHC head is damn near impossible to make a profit off of. It'd be way too expensive to turn a profit.

Not sure what happened during the situation to tell you the truth, it just happened. Some country roads back here seem to go straight forever, then all of a sudden it banks right as you get to it. I touched the brakes a bit causing the bike to straighten out a bit too much for the turn. If I leaned into it at the speed I thought I was going to slide it on the brakes, so I went for the softest landing.

thats a good idea, what brakes would you like to use? If I can hit the junkyard and find the brake setup I may just convert mine and make the bracket at the same time. Killing 2 birds with one stone?

keep coming up with ideas guys.

was saying it as a heads up. Going to quick, went to slow down, by the time I slowed down going straight into a cornfield seemed like my best option.

Watch out for overanticipating turns, I wrecked my buddies bike a few weeks ago doing that. I ended up going straight, thankfully virginia is full of cornfields, and most are cut by this time of the year.....it sucked.

any other parts request?

Been looking and the FSM isn't available through carfiche at the moment. But I have read that the coolant bleeder valve is located on the intake? What if its a Greddy intake? Is the bleeder valve used on that as well, or is it obsolete?

Seems as though this might be a hard one...haha

any other ideas?

Seems as though the oil pressure was fine reading on here and a few other forums. Now we're having an overheating problem. One of the fans wasn't cutting on, so I went and rewired the fan, its working now. It takes longer to overheat, but it still does it. Everything seems upto spec. Are the RB's notorious for overheating for certain reasons?

My friend has a R33 RB25 in a 95 240sx with a N1 Oil Pump on it, the gauge started reading about 35 psi on idle and about 75psi with gas. Took it to a shop and its running about 75psi on idle now and about 100psi with gas. Seems alittle abnormal to me does it seem right?

Are you talking about a dizzy cap type thing? Just trying to get an idea. You mean a cap without plug wire ports?

Dizzy blockoff would be o so easy, I can do that. What kind of brake adapters?

You mind getting me a picture or something?

Thinking of doing some sidework making parts on a fair sized scale and was wondering what people are looking for. I have access to a machine shop that I can use for the initial mockups and I have the means to mass produce if needed. Post some ideas and let me know what your looking for, SPECIALLY if its Z related, looking to do mostly automotive parts, but willing to do whatever needs to be made. Post ideas and I'll see what I can do. I also have my 78' that I can use for mockup if they're Z parts.