savageskaterkid

I believe it was in MAXIMUM BOOST that they won't over wastegates, I can't find the book, so don't quote me. But if you run a BIG turbo at Low boost, you want a big WG, if you run a small turbo at high boost, you use a small wastegate, if you run a big turbo at high boost, you use a small wastegate. Does that seem right? V-band does seem the way to go now though, specially for ease of removal.

I screwed up, I could of swore that I put this thing in the trouble shooting forum. Move it if you need to.

I know that this isn't Z car related, but I have a 92 civic thats been having problems, and I wanna figure them out before I'm stranded. I know that the older civics have dizzy problems, and I can't seem to find symptoms. The car will misfire under light load, but if I punch it, it'll clear up, and its always right after a shift. Anybody know the symptoms of the honda dizzy failure?

Kinda random, but I've seen the video quite a few times, what BOV is that, I kinda like it.

Not sure exactly what pump I'm gonna use yet, but most fuel injection pumps run 40psi+, correct? More pressure would be better for the carbs?

I might build a bolt-on fogger plate for the mikuni's here soon then. Its not what I want it to do, its what I need it to do. What I'm thinking is the fact that with pressure, it should help to move the mixture though the carbs. The box has an internal baffle to ensure that it equals out. If I had a return style regulator that ensured the correct pressure for the motor, but still running a constant fuel pressure for the spray, would this suffice for something like a 100hp increase?

The reason I wonder about the fuel system, is the fact that the pressure would always be changing from the regulator. I'm also not sure if the regulator is a return style either. Maybe Tony D can chime in on this. The airbox isn't a normal airbox, its designed with baffles to feed boost to all cylinders fairly equally, and its also sealed. I'm just not sure if I'm gonna be spraying into the right place. Without giving too much away, the setup is a blow-through triple mikuni setup. If I was to spray into the piping right before the airbox(which would send it to all cylinders fairly equal) Mind you all this is under boost, going through the carbs too. Would I have alot of problems, or is it a recipe for disaster?

If this isn't done yet, send me a PM

A buddy did an N/a-t MK3 supra. He was able to use the 7MGTE wiring, and electronics, tweaked to fit, and used a stand-alone ECU called stinger from austrailia. If you plan to do some boltons the GTE would easily be more expensive. Cost of motor is way high. Then you plan on doing the same upgrades that you did on the GE, which is cheaper. Such as putting the header, turbo, downpipe, stand alone, injectors.....ect, then really all your using is the basic longblock, not even the full motor. But I guess if you get a GTE you could sell some parts off to make a bit back.

I am gonna be running triple mikuni 40's on my L28 setup, and was looking at spraying. I have a few questions that maybe somebody could answer. I have a wet shot kit already, and was wondering howto hook it up. I don't really like the idea of drilling and tapping 6 holes into the intake and having to jet them all the same, and have a bunch of lines and such running everywhere. Its gonna be more of a hidden setup, and with one line, its easy to hide. 6 isn't so easy to hide. I know your supposed to run the spray after the carbs, but what would happen if I sprayed before the carbs? I have an airbox that I can spray into, would it work? Am I asking for trouble? I will be running a fuel injection fuel pump on the application, with a regulator holding the correct fuel pressure for the carbs. I read on here that nitrous doesn't like fuel pressure below 7psi, but I'd be running around 3.5psi most of the time. What do I do about this?

I'm not sure on primaries and such, but most people are running T3s but they said they could change flanges if possible. I doubt anyone is gonna run a T25 based turbo. I really like that design that you posted, with the waste flange down. I have a stock piece with the flange up, and it won't clear my current setup. I like the idea of close to stock area, that way exhausts could be tweaked to fit, instead of a whole new dp and such. This comes to mind, only a header based design instead http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785 Its got the wastegate fairly close to the outlet where it needs to be. It aims down, where a dump pipe can easily be routed back into the exhaust without having to take tight turns, or you can just do a straight dump tube going straight down.

I really like the most recent manifold, it looks like it'd be a good design. For that low price I'd be skeptical, but worst case scenerio, I'd run to a local welding shop and have them touch up the welds. I know a few guys that do that on knock off manifolds, with good results. I also like the idea of having the wastegate pipe facing down to clear certain intake setups. I'm DEFINITLY in, depending on the price, assuming that it stays fairly close to the qoute price, maybe 50-100 dollar diffrence. Put me down for a T3 setup, with a 38mm waste flange

Its a JOKE, like haha

What do a 600, 700, and 1000hp supra have in common? They all run 12's. Supras don't make 8's.....hahah j/k. There is a reason they make 2JZ to the Chevy transmissions, can hold power, and are extremely reliable.

From what I read, its not that hard to pull off the triple carb turbo setup. Have quite a bit of the parts needed to pull it off. I'll let you know when I get it going.

Just do a triple carb turbo setup. L28T FTW

aziza whats going on with this????

It looks like a stud, but with a ball on one side. Atleast thats what it looks like it should be. Would an SU Z have these pieces?

I have triple Mikuni 40's, and was wondering where I can get a linkage piece for it. I have the linkage arms and such. All I need is the little ball joint type piece, as I'm missing all 3. Its like a little ball, with a stud on the other stud I assume. Its the piece that connects the linkage arm to the linkage rod.

on a 99, you don't need a conversion kit. As its already R-134a, just get a can of R-134a and get the hose for it. It goes over it on the car. Its REALLY EASY. Unless you have a leak, then it can be a PITA

He probably had an S30/S130, which explains why he wasn't driving it, just like most of the ones on here, its being worked on too. hahaha.

As far as I know, all conventional Inline-6 use 1-5-3-6-2-4, even diesels. 15-shes too young, 36-shes too old, 24-is just right. And yes, it is CCW

When I saw that I busted out laughing

also, just about anything can explode if its compressed

Oxygen+fire=big fire Nitrous=more oxygen HUGE FIRE