Hugh

Here's the pics of mine from December 2004. The pics are terrible because so was my camera. In some shots, they appear pinkish. I assure you, they show red in person. I didn't have the proper tools for the job back then. Now I do. I really should do this again and do it right this time. It needs a baffle between the main lights and the reverse lights to keep them from lighting up all the time. I also need to draw up my pattern in illustrator and use a drill press... rather than freehand measuring and hand drilling. Oh, and that's 56 LED's just for the main light. I planned to use the lower one for braking and turning, but just recently thought about putting a chaser in there. I found one that would fit the space and is pre-made for a pretty decent price. Then I would just integrate it into my circuits.

Interesting idea there... but I don't care for the halo or angel eyes styling of the regular running taillights. What is your plan for the lense? I made a single LED taillight back in 2004/05 and posted about it here. Everyone responded like crazy asking me to make them some... far too much work for me, no thanks. I was too lazy to perfect the circuit and then too lazy to even build the second one. I think I was in between jobs when I did the first one. Free time = productivity on my hobbies. Now I have none. I am still planning to pull this project back out and continue on it. I want to completely re-do the first one now, though. I used ultra bright white LED's - 5mm round. I used very many of them, and made them fit the stock housing. I forget the count now... I'll go look it up.

Gotcha.

Cool car. Nice find. I like the new paint. I failed to see what was "ricer" about it when you got it... but maybe things are different in your neck of the woods. Looks like you're off to a great start.

Ha, yeah that was a good read. I was waiting for the part where the turbo timer would come in.. but it didn't happen. I tried to hook up my Apexi turbo timer a few years back with no success. I'm actually really good with wiring and electronics, but for some reason this one stumped the heck out of me. I, too, would like the voltmeter to work. In my old 180sx in Japan, I used the O2 sensor display on it as a remote display for my wideband sensor. I programmed my wideband to output between 1 and 2 volts according to air/fuel ratio. 1.00 volts = 10:1, 1.5 volts = 15:1, and so on. Having it right up there in my face without spending any more money on another gauge was nice. Shifting a decimal place over is no problem, too. I don't need a turbo timer for daily use, but it was nice at the track and stuff. I kept it set really short, normally. So I still have the harness adapter from my 180sx and the plugs are the same. The wiring is quite different, however... and I could not for the life of me figure out what each wire in the Z was doing and how to translate it over to the 180sx wiring. I posted this question here a long time ago and received zero response, if I recall. After doing some searching, I'm finding this is a question that is always asked and never answered. Somebody out there must know how to do this properly.

I would never suggest an RB20. They're all so old and beat down at this point. To get a reliable one, it would need serious work. If you're spending that kind of money, go for the RB25. Tons more power.

Thank you very much for all this info. I will report back my results when I get to it.

Excellent! I will try this, hopefully later today.

Any chance of you relaying images over here? I'm not a member of that forum, and therefore can't view images. The post where the guy talks about a shim has no image at all for me.

Here's a video of it operating. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLi-vyzgBGM Notice the cotter pin spins and the tab goes nowhere. The design of what I'm seeing there tells me it won't move a rod... because its got nothing impeding it from just spinning freely. Agreed, everything could use a good lubing. What is normally visible looked OK, but now I stuck the camera into the door and can see much more.

These are just some complaints that could be directed to Devfuse, but I figure I should tell you guys what I see wrong since you're the ones paying him for the hook. If I'm out of line here, let me know. I will address him directly. The garage page doesn't appear to be tied to your profile in any way. This would be a nice feature. Otherwise you have to rely on everyone to put a link to their page in their profile themselves. (usually a problem with many not so computer inclined users) This problem is further complicated by the fact that if you click on someone's name within their vehicle page, it will take you to their list of vehicles. If you click on their name on their vehicle list page, it brings you to their list of vehicles. To talk to someone directly about their car, I had to leave the garage and search for the username - then PM them. If someone comments on the vehicle, the owner receives no notification. There is no way to reply to a comment, which should notify the original poster of such reply. When someone commented on my vehicle, I responded by adding a comment. Once this comment was in place, I realized a typo that made it sound really stupid. There is no way to edit your own comment once its in place. It also doesn't give me the option to leave another comment now, which I could have done to explain the first one's mistakes. I'm just saying, if you're spending $32.95 a year for this hook, Devfuse should put some more time into it and make it more full-featured. If it was a free mod, OK... but I was looking at this one for my forum and now I think I will have to pass, unless he updates some features. Great work on upgrading to IPB! Love this forum software above any other.

Going into the driver's door (for perspective) A little closer In this image, you can clearly see some numbers are stamped on the side of the driver's lock cylinder. I thought I had read that only the passenger side has that? The only piece I can see that adjusts is the door handle rod (with the large plastic piece on the threaded end) Does this look correct? Are my lock cylinders on the wrong sides of the car or something? If I swap them, won't the tab on the back of the cylinder go the wrong way? Or do I need to pull the cotter pin and swap the tabs, too? And this is just a deeper look so you can see the lever that crosses over down there.

Great, hope the tequila was good! I was out last night. Had to stick to beer. I'll dig into it and see whats what. Thanks.

I will dig into it and investigate. The body shop guy lubed everything nicely, and it all moves freely now. The unlocking procedure with the key is nice and smooth. Problem is I've never had or seen properly working locks... so I don't even know how they're supposed to look or feel.

I'm pretty sure I've tried that a few times in the past with no luck. I just ran outside and tried it right now.. and nope. My lock will not push down unless the door is closed.

Well that's what I used to have, I think.. except I think I could lock the driver door before closing it. The passenger has always needed to be closed to lock. If I could key-lock my driver side, I'd be happy.

I recently had the body shop swap out my doors with a pair from a 72 that had almost no rust on them. They lubed up the lock mechanisms and put my lock cylinders in there for me. With my original 73 doors, the passenger side only locked from the inside with the door shut. The key would unlock it from the outside, but never lock it. My driver side worked as normal until rusting and falling apart eventually. Now with the 'new' doors, both of my locks act as the old passenger side did. You can only lock them from the inside of the car. The keys unlock, but never lock them. To actually lock my entire car, I have to pop the hatch and reach in to lock it from the inside. This is becoming quite a hassle. Has anyone experienced this before? Is the passenger door operating normally? I thought the cylinders could be in the wrong door, but they wouldn't hook up if that were the case. (they didn't remove the tab from the back that spins) Also when I look at the operation of the cylinder, it seems like when its turned toward locking, neither side actuates the tab that pushes the mechanism. Is this just a worn out cylinder?

Not only is that a fine looking car, that is a great photograph of it. You should feel lucky somebody snapped this for you. Here's my mess currently:

Its my understanding that the output of the SR20DET's ECU is not usable with the stock tach. What about an aftermarket tach sensor tied into the #1 coil pack trigger? I honestly don't know what the stock tach needs, but I'm guessing this has been addressed elsewhere on this forum with the many different swaps here. I run only aftermarket stuff, and my stock tach/speedo lie dormant until I drop some aftermarket gauges back there. I read tach off my boost controller (I know, I know, I just shift when it stops making power)

I just upgraded the forum on my website to this latest version of Invision, as well. I have been running Invision for almost 6 years now and I've always liked it. This default skin blasted me in the eyes like an interrogation lamp, though. The very first thing I did after installing was go find one of the many free skins available to tone all this white down a bit. I've now modified mine out to where it looks pretty slick. Not perfect, by any means, but easier to look at. Here's just one link with free skins: http://skins.invisionize.com/db/index.php/c/325 There's plenty more out there, and its not at all difficult to install these. The Invision Power forum is an excellent resource of IPB help, right on their own website. There's also Invisionize and some others for modding/skinning/etc...

Orange County, California: Riteway Auto Paint & Body 17395 Mount Herrmann St Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 434-6060 info@ritewayautopaint.com http://www.ritewayautopaint.com/ They did the rear end and doors on my 240Z. I was very pleased with the work for such a good price. I am not affiliated with them, but would recommend them to anyone. Nice shop, great guys, and great work.

Wow, 8 years?

And that just proves my point, thank you. (power/weight)

Go inside the stock gauges and make them look really cool.