Hugh

I get it now, but does it work well? Where does this leave power handling capabilities? Sounds like you're stuck with the strength of basically an organic disc to the flywheel as the limit to me.

Thats an awful lot of aluminum holding the fan up!

What is a 1-side metal disc? Do the sides not match or something?

That clutchnet disc looks nice... anyone have experience with their products?

(clifton beat me to it) There's a lot of info in the drivetrain forum about diff swaps and what it requires to make it work. Long story short, its not cheap or easy to put a 300zx diff in your car. The driveshaft needs to be shortened with the SR tranny and the stock Z diff, but it only costs like $100 at a driveshaft shop to do it.

I'll say... 250hp and open diff = crap already.

I can easily tune a car in two hours if its running properly. Problem is a lot of people like to get cars tuned when they need maintenance.

Oh F'in A!! I will be calling you early!!!

Do you think you couldn't have just filled the entire space with mesh? The frame makes the grill look pretty small. Not bad... but if the mesh were bigger, it would look great.

Another one with skinny flares: These pics are from when I was living in Japan... I didn't pay enough attention to details like that when I was there. (driving a 180sx)

Now what do you think about this car: It appears that the front and rear have the skinny ZG flares... maybe two sets of front flares?? Here's another one who is at the same event with the wide rears: (just a sidenote, that blue car is ridiculously fast) So If I were to get 4 front flares, could I make it work? I now wish I had wider angle shots of those cars.

There was nothing left to roll, it was all rusted out and the previous owner's bondo job was busting apart when I rolled the lip under. Oh, and I had already decided to put some sort of flare on it.

My friend tried out the older M/T drag radials on his RX7 making like 600+hp and he smoked the crap out of those as well. He hated the tires. He ended up running 275/50-15 Nitto 555R's instead, and loved them.

I put on the Sportmax 02 15x8's with 225/50-15's on the front, and 245/50-15's on the back. I'm pretty sure 225's would've cleared, but I wanted more tire than that. The 245's rubbed pretty bad. Rolling the lip helped a lot, but still rubbed sometimes. I had to finally cut the fenders out about 3/4" to make them clear at the top area. I'm thinking ZG flares. Are there any smaller flares available? Will my wheels look inset too deep with ZG's on there? This is how it sits currently:

I couldn't use my ARC oil pan with the Vildini setup, unless we cut away some of the front crossmember. I told Adrian not to bother with that and we just left the stock pan on the engine. (ARC pan is shaped exactly like yours) Just a note...

I love my Tec3, but I have to admit... its a bitch to install. Alex is right about the PowerFC. I am a standalone man, through and through... so my opinion is tainted. Maybe you shouldn't listen to me.

Looks nice. I'm sure you'll love it.

I'm using the Skyline GTS-T Type M slave cylinder. It's slightly larger than the SR20DET slave. I'm using the original master cylinder.

Ebay. Not a boat anchor to many in the FWD arena. Nissan 200sx, Sentra, or NX uses that setup.

looks good! Will be nice to see it finished.

I don't know about bolting up the RWD tranny... but I think there are some compatiblity issues. One major problem with that engine layout is the distributor comes out of the "back" of the motor. That means it would be planted into your firewall if mounted RWD style. If you eliminate the distributor and run a good ignition with either coil packs or some waste spark multi-coil setup, then no problem. Any standalone that can read a crank trigger will be whats needed to pull that off... then you cap up that hole on the engine and forget about it. I've seen someone put that head on an S13 block in a 240zx before. They did as I said with a standalone, but they were using the RWD block ... eliminating the tranny problem. The other issue is the intake manifold. It points to the back as well, and needs to be cut off, flipped over, and welded back on. This is a mod you sometimes see on RWD SR's to use the individual throttle bodys of the GTI-R. (which are nice for response and mid range power, but not good for high power top end) The motor is marginally better than an S13 motor. It makes 15 more horsepower (rated). The head is solid lash, which is nice... so no throwing rocker arms. It also has a little more lift from the rocker arms, flowing a little more. The turbo is a little bigger (but nothing too special). The individual throttle bodies are cool, but not great for 400hp+ Honestly, this is too much work to bother. I'd sell it for more than you need to buy a RWD SR20DET and move on. It's worth a little more due to rarity, but that all depends on the condition, buyer, moon cycle, etc... Get the RWD motor and it will go a lot smoother.

Man, that turbo just wants to keep pushing well past redline, ha? Is that a T350 back end? (T3 stage 5) Congrats on passing 500hp!!

Rock and Roll, brotha!

Yeah, but you know what I mean... times change. Eventually the SR will be old as hell, too... The one in my car is 15-16 years old already. Just wondering when Nissan will make another mighty 4 cylinder. Seems like everyone is headed towards bigger engines and no turbos, so it may not ever happen.

Take pics of the distributor, front and back of the motor. Get a pic that shows the front below the cams and I can tell you exactly which motor you have. You said the intercooler is attached? Is this a transverse (front wheel drive/4 wheel drive) style SR20DET from a Pulsar GTI-R or Bluebird, maybe? The intercooler on that is a top mount on the engine. These also have distributors. All rear wheel drive SR20DET's that I know of have coil packs, and a cam angle sensor coming out of the US drivers side at the front of the engine. The SR20DE comes with a distributor and has a grey valve cover. If you can't take pics, at least elaborate on those things I mentioned.