Bartman

I've made a recording while I was experiencing the problem, and one side is showing rich while the other side is showing lean. Here's the thread I started a while back rgarding my problem:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122403

Looks good! It seems that the bigger the diameter you run, the wider you can go. A couple of questions: Could you have run 8.5's on the front? Did you have Ross custom make wider adapters for you? I have his adapters and I don't think they are 1.5" wide. So you're think of removing the rear adapter and running just a 20mm spacer? A 35 offset with a 20mm spacer somes out to a total offset of 15 mm which equates to roughly 5.84 inches of backspace. Do you think you could fit this because the rims are 18's? Are you running 8" or 10" springs?

I'm going to verify my O2 wiring as I've been chasing down a similar problem as well. I guess the stumble problem is actually pretty prevelant, but there seem to be many possible causes and threads that aren't updated with the problem resolution. I've also found that Tim240z had this problem (that's where I got my engine from), but I haven't been able to find how he fixed his problem.

I'm still experiencing this problem, and it's really got me frustrated. I replaced the MAP Sensor and the ignition wires as well as rerouted the ignition wires to eliminate potential problems with the headers, all to no avial. I need to generate another DataMaster file to see if I still have any codes being set (the MIL light is not on). It still seems strange to me that this is only a problem after the engine is warmed up and in closed loop. To some extent the problem is worse at some times than others, and I thought for a while that it was solved when I replaced the ignition wires. A couple of items: I noticed last night that the alternator light would flash every once in a while, so I don't know what can cause that and if that can be a factor as well. It runs without the maf plugged in...but not very well. I saw the item 78zlt1 posted from the LT1 Fiero web site, but my car doesn't backfire before shifts. I do get the sense that it is an electrical problem, as it seems to be worse when I'm running my AC...of course, that adds load as well.

Here's the thread with all the info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123074

Thanks that really helps me understand what was being discussed. I hope to have mine delivered and installed soon.

I like the body line and I'm planning on keeping mine. I think it's a nice feature, and really provides a little visual extra.

I was seriously looking at those rims, and I think they would work good without ZG's. You can find them on eBay for pretty decent prices almost all the time (search for Nissan 17 staggered). The only reason I'm not getting them is I decided to run 8.5's all around for a little easier fit and arguably a better setup for autocross. Search Clifton's setup as he is running this size rims's with serious rubber under stock fenders.

Here's a link to a thread that discusses backspace and offset in detail including posts by people representing themselves as wheel designers. http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=68500 There are many diagrams on the net depicting offset and backspacing, but the one included in the thread looks like a good one as it includes flange width. I guess in some cases the inner and outer flange widths can actually be different. I just want to purchase rims that have the recommended 5" of backspace, when the only information I'm given is the offset. The Rota RB 17 x 8.5 wheels I ordered has an advertised offset of 4mm. Of course this information would also help determine the proper offset used to place an order for the 17 x 9.5 rims as well.

The backspacing is going to be the same regardless of the width wheel you want to run. Opinions differ, but the general consensus seems to be that 5" backspacing works for those running coilovers. It would be less for those without coilovers, but personally I don't think it makes sense to run the width rims being discussed here without using coilovers. Given the 5" backspacing you can calculate the offset needed based on the width wheel you want. Now there could be variances between manufacturers, and someone else posted problems installing their Rota's that seemed to be the correct offset.

The problem is that they say in the ad that they are hub centric only. Our car's require lug centric adapters. Thanks for the compliment on the web site, I just re-did it this week.

You could try Techno Toy Tuning for adapters. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=356

It amazes me how many times I find new threads looking for Ross. Not trying to knock doing it, as it does seem to get the communication started; but it would make me think of using another vendor that's more available on item's where you have multiple vendors to pick from.

I don't think they're actually out yet...but it should be soon. Rota's main web page now say's the new wheels are coming in July, but I think they started saying they would come out in May http://rotawheel.com/. Kim told me that my order for 17x8.5's has been placed and to date and I haven't heard any updates. I sent another email for an update.

I'd go with a car that needs some work rather than one that is complete including paint. Having a V8 already installed is a big bonus! Like you stated, when the car is painted you don't really know what's underneath. How good was it prepped, how much bondo, how much rust is covered, etc. Plus, what are the chances that it's going to be the color you want? to me, picking your own color is something that really makes the car yours. Of course my car still isn't painted, but I think that's one of the last things to do. It sounds like you found a good candidate for your project!

Thanks for the explanation...and it makes a lot of sense. When I went to another autocross practice I didn't spin out, but I came close due to a situation similar to what you described. I had another experienced autocrosser riding with me, and when we discussed my performance after a run he mentioned that even though my car was already pushing, I still gave it more gas. I think that I'm incorrectly "wanting to reduce understeer by breaking the rear tires loose".

Yes, but aren't we discussing 'wheel stagger'? Regardless, I'm still wondering what specific wheel and tire sizes 'chaosdrifter06' is looking at. johnc, Understanding that a stagger setup can create understeer in an otherwise neutral setup, couldn't it be used to minimize oversteer in high horsepower applications?

This may just be my misunderstanding, but I thought staggered setup is a wider rim in the rear than the front, not different diameter rims. Maybe your planning on having the 18's wider as well? What specific rim and tire sizes are you looking at? Why do you want 18's on the back? Do you want a raked sort of look on your car?

Thanks for posting up your experience with installing the ST bars. It will be a while before mine are delivered, but this is good information to use when they arrive. If you, or anyone else, could post up pic's that would be very helpful; especially showing the zerks you installed. And where are you getting these spacers from?

Justin beat me to it with the chart.

Where are you running into problems that will require the use of spacers? I'm also looking at the 17x8.5's with a 4 mm offset and I was hoping I could run them without spacers.