Bartman

I'll probably be wearing my HybridZ hat.

Very good job, especially from your garage. I'm just curious why you would spray more clear after you wet sand?

Here's a picture from a while back that shows how my radiator is placed. Since this picture I've added sheet metal between the radiator support and the radiator to ensure that the air coming through the support goes through the radiator. I also have a condensor mounted to the front of the radiator support. I'm currently using a Taurus fan wired up normally on the engine side of the radiator, but I'd like to move it to different location. My options are to mount the fan to the front of the condensor or the front of the radiator as a pusher, or to the back of the condensor (wired normally as a puller). I assume I only have to reverse my wiring to make the fan a pusher and that it will be a little less efficient, but I'm thinking it will still be moving plenty of air. If the fan is between the condensor and radiator it would be hidden by the shrouding and would look nice and clean. Here's a pic with the fan mounted on the engine side and the shrouding in place. So what do you think?

Well it looks like I need to swap my optispark in order to install the extreme duty or double roller. So I'm in the market for a vented optispark, 95+ timing cover, vac harness, and vac fitting. I'm going to try to score the vented opti on eBay and I'm thinking of getting everything else from www.gmpartsdirect.com. Thanks for all the input and info, it seems like we have quite a bit of LT1 expertise on this site.

Guy,Could you tell me how much the electric water pump sticks out from the stock water pump housing? I may have a clearance problem since I layed my radiator back.

For my 1994 f-body engine that timing set would require the other parts I mentioned in option 3 of my original post (The part number you listed is the same part number I was looking at). BTW - A single roller would probably work just fine...I just want the added security and my current upgrade plans may push me to over 400 rwhp.

I’m upgrading the top end of my 94 LT1 and I have everything removed. I heard the stock LT1 timing chains have excessive slack, but I’m amazed how much there really is. There are several options available to me: Don’t worry about it; just get a replacement timing set. Upgrade to an aftermarket Lunati LT1 timing setup. Summit has LUN-93094 for $174.39 (still a single non-roller) Upgrade to GM Performance Parts extreme duty timing chain kit (must upgrade distributor, timing cover, add a vac harness and fitting for a total of about $600) There are other aftermarket timing sets and most of them require the same upgrades as the GM extreme duty. Upgrade to an electric water pump and use a standard SBC double roller (CSI-901LT1 $149.88 and CLO-9-3145 $79.88 both from Summit) I’m starting to think an electric water pump and double roller is my best option. Any thoughts?

Yes, the stage 8 bolts are just an updated version of the old technique of drilling and wiring. I have to agree wth Lason about the clips, it does seem like they would be easy to loose or break. The are also fairly expensive, especially if you buy an extra set. The Breslin's cost even more and I'm not sold on the design. It looks like a drywall molly. I wonder if just getting better header bolts, like ARP, would help eliminate the problem?

When I removed my headers I found that my header bolts had loosened. I did some checking around and found out this in not uncommon, especially when you have aluminum heads. Has anyone else experienced this? I found a product called Stage 8 locking fasteners that should eliminate this problem. Anyone familiar with these? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STG%2D8911&N=400197+4294888324+115&autoview=sku

DaleMX, Thanks for the tip about cleaning the threads with an old head bolt, I'll have to give that a try. From what I've found the TTY head bolts didn't start until 1996, so I guess that means my heads uses normal SBC head bolts. The ARP's aren't as expensive for a regular SBC so I may just go for it. I'm still not sure which gaskets are best (GM, ROL, FelPro), it looks like I could use most of a complete gasket set. I got confirmation the new heads shipped today and I've already got the old heads removed. Here's how it looks now: And here's what it looked like yesterday: I need to get some type of puller to remove the hub on the crank and then I can remove the timing cover and get the cam out.

No I not 100%, but I'm 100% sure I'm doing the upgrade. I've already removed most of the top end including one of the heads. The new heads and cam were shipped today...now I just need to figure out all the other parts I need to get as well.

Is it really worth it to buy an ARP stud kit? I'm not sure if mine or torque to yield (TTY might have started in 1996?), but I do plan on replacing them. It's just a question of which one's to get, GM, Clevite, ARP, or something else. I also need to figure out which gaskets to get GM, FelPro, ROL or ?

This is great information, and I will be doing the same thing fairly soon. I was wondering what length push rods to get, and now I know I need to measure to determine the proper length. It looks like a solid lifter will be useful for checking the piston to valve clearance as well as determing the proper push rod length. Can you buy just one and is there a specific model/size I would need to buy (for my 94 LT1 engine)?

I previously had long tube headers installed on my LT1 with the oxygen sensors located at the end, so I'm not so sure that is your problem.

Yea Hanns, I was just talking to my wife this morning about having to start taking the Z to the track. I think I'll have to give it a try once I get everything sorted out. Maybe you can help me put in a Ford 8" next.

If your talking about piston to valve clearance, I will definitely be checking that. Do you think the cam is too big to be streetable? I got everything as a package, but I could still get a milder cam if this one is too much for the street.

Well, I'm making the plunge myself. I've got a fully ported and polished head being shipped to me next week. Now I've got a lot of parts to order and work to do. I'll let you know how it comes out, but with all the components I'm getting I should be making 400-450 rwhp!

I bought new fully ported and polished heads, they've been flow benched and ported by Airflow Performance Engineering. Here's the spec's: -New Manley Stainless Steel 2.02 intake valves cut down to 2.00" with 2 angles on the face & 1 radiused angle on the back side.= 3 angles total on the valve -Stage III Port and Polish with flow specs -New Manley Stainless Steel 1.60 exhaust valves cut down to 1.56" with 2 angles on the face & 1 radiused angle on the back side.= 3 angles total on the valve -Valve seats cut to 3 angles on the seat @ 2.00/1.56 -New positive Viton seals -BEFORE and AFTER Flow Testing -Sonic Thickness Testing -Full Blueprinting of heads (including intake runner and combustion chamber CC volume) -Installation of ARP studs and GM guideplates -Full Re-assembly of cylinder heads. -New Comp 978 springs up to .650 lift -New Custom Grind Comp cam to match head specs 236/242 .580/.585 LSA 112 Here's the only flow information I have right now: @.600 267cfm @.600 184cfm I'll post up more when I get the flow sheet This setup claims to produce 400-450rwhp. I'll have to dyno it and see if it can hit these numbers or not. I still need to buy the Comp Pro Magnum roller rockers, timing chain, head gasket, hardened push rods, new lifters, and probably more stuff that I haven't thought of yet.

That has got to be the cleanest engine bay I've ever seen in an S30. Great job, It puts mine to shame.

Here's a link to the LT4 hot cam kit from summit Racing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D12480002&N=115&autoview=sku It's a pretty good deal, for $530 you get the cam, roller rockers, springs, etc. Here's a link to advanced induction packages for the LT1: http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsLT1.html I callked Lloyd at eportworks http://www.eportworks.com/LT1LE1.htm yesterday and he was very helpful. He recommended the LE2 head with the LE1 cam for $1650 (he uses your heads and it would take 5 - 6 weeks). He gave me a list of other things you would need including: Comp Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms 1305-16 GM Guideplates 14011051 7/16 studs Hardened push rods Impala head gaskets He said you need a new timing chain but you could use the stock lifters. All this would really add up!

The JTR position works great on LT1's. I would get their Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual as well as their Chevrolet TPI & TBI engine Swapping manual. It talks about transmission selections as well as many other items that would probably be of interest to you. You will need to perform some clearancing for just about any transmission, but it would probably be more for an automatic. The amount of clearancing varies, but it just takes some convincing with a sledge hammer here and there.