Bartman

I don't know if this will work better, but I put the video clip up on streetfire Click here to see Video

I finally remembered what part I installed that claims to need a 500 mile break-in...it's the stage 1 clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing I added. I guess I should take it a little easy for a while.

My fuel lines exit at the rear (that's the way it came from the factory), but they exit facing up. This required me to modify my fuel rail covers as you can see in this picture. I like the look of the picture you posted with the lines hidden under the fuel rail cover.

Yes I remember meeting you guys, but I didn't remember the shop name and I couldn't find the card Mike gave me. I'll give him a call today.

Thanks for all the positive comments. The exhaust system is dual 2.5" with a pair of Flowtech Afterburner mufflers. At first I was only going to do a small upgrade, but I wound up doing quite a bit including, upgrading to a Comp Cams custom ground cam, Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers, double springs, magnum pushrods, and hydraulic roller lifters. I also upgraded to a vented opti, replaced the timing set with a Cloyes double roller, and installed an electric water pump. I also got what Airflow Performance Engineering calls a Stage IIII Port job with 2.00 and 1.56 stainless steel valves. The cam with the 1.6 roller rockers gives me a total lift of .580 and .587 with 112 lobe separation. I'm not quite sure which figures you generally use for duration, but the cam card states: duration @.006 tappet lift 286 304 duration @ .050 236 242. I'm now shoping for a laptop cable and someone to reprogram my PCM to make the best use of my upgrades. As of now I'm thinking of using PCMforless.

I just recently completed upgrading the engine and I made a short video of it running. I uploaded it here at HybridZ, so let me know if you can view it and what you think. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/570z1.wmv

I think it would look really nice. I've had my eye on a color similar to that one for a while now, but since I painted my engine bay blue already I'm going to stick with it.

Make sure you have a working oil pressure gauge. I just started mine after upgrading the top end and the oil pressure gauge didn't budge, so I quickly had to shut it down. I got a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood now, and it shows that I have pleanty of pressure. I still don't know what's wrong with my stock gauge.

I have Comp Cams replacement hydraulic roller lifters similar to your first picture. So maybe I don't need to break them in for 500 miles.

Well I was able to remove a plug just above my oil filter and install the adapter, hose, fittings and finally the mechanical oil pressure gauge in my engine compartment. This allowed me to leave the datsun sending unit installed around the back of the intake. She fired right up and the stock gauge still showed nothing, but the new mechanical gauge showed plenty of pressure. I let her run for a while keeping the RPMs around 2,000 to help break in the cam and get all the assembly lube into the oil. Tonight I'll change the oil and filter and I'll be able to drive it around a little bit and see how she feels. I'm going to take it easy for the first 500 or so miles to completely break in the cam properly (i think that's what Comp Cams recommends). It really sounds like a race car and I'm sure my neighbors like me even more now. I have mufflers on my dual exhaust, but it's still pretty loud. I'll have to charge up my camcorder and make a little clip to post up.

Got a gauge, hose, and tube fittings from PepBoys today, so I'll try to get it installed tonight and give it another shot. It appears there are a couple of plugs over the oil filter boss that should allow me to easily hook it up. Once i determine I have pressure I'll have to record a sound clip as well as take a couple of pic's.

The LT1 fired up almost instantaneously; and boy did it sound mean! I can't believe how quickly it started; I was half expecting it not to start at all (something wired wrong or whatever). I only ran it for a little while because I'm not showing any oil pressure, but it sounds like everything is getting oiled. Meaning no unexpected noises other than a wicked lope. I pre-primed the oil pump and installed a full oil filter to help ensure that the engine would have the necessary lubrication quickly. So how can I know for sure that I've got good oil pressure so that I can run it for twenty minutes or so to break in the cam and change the oil?

I'm using a stock LT1 compressor with the Bowers Low Hood Style LT1 A/C Compressor Relocation kit. I had to clearance a little on the shock tower, but it's working great. http://www.bowersrodshop.com/info_pulley.htm

Search for "electric fuel pump", I think that's what most people use. You can still use your stock tank if you want. Welcome to HybridZ!

Ross is the owner of Modern Motorsports. Here's a link to his adapters which I am running on my car. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=74ea856e79a6cd80f77890b95e05354d I guess you already have five lug hubs? Five lug adapter are considerably heavier and more expensive than the standard adapters. If you just need a fairly narrow spacer on your existing five lug hubs, then I'm sure you can find that fairly easily and cheaper somewhere else.

I don't know the size spacers you need, but you could figure out for yourself with some washers. Once you figure out how thick you need them you will most likely need longer studs or go with an adapter instead. There are many places that will custome make spacers based on your requirements, and I think there are a couple that sell them on eBay and state that they will custom make them to your spec's as well. Here's a thread that talks about using temporary wheel washers to determine spacer thickness. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106072

One of the owners of JTR posts here sometimes and you'll find his recommendations for installing a T56 in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94584 I think he sells modified tailhousings as well if you really want to stick with the stock speedo. You could always give them a call if you're really interested...they're very helpful.

I thought that you needed to paint some metallics and pearls with all panels in place? On a show I watched the other day they were working on a car and painted just the jambs, under hood and trunk, and undersides of the trunk and hood. Then they installed everything and placed foam tape in all the jambs before they painting the exterior all put together. This ensured that they wouldn't get overspray on the nicely completed jambs, and that the exterior was all done at the same time with the same angles, coverage, etc.

I'm glad to see that your car is just about done. I know you were getting frustrated about it taking so long and how it would turn out. From the pic's you posted it looks like it may look just as nice as it did before.

They have the story with pictures and a video link at MSNBC. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/

I used the intake system from a Firehawk on my LT1, but it took some fabrication to make it work. If you're interested you can find more info on my web site. I haven't heard of anyone using John's kit for non LS1 installs...it looks like it's more expensive than using a JTR kit.

I think they're showing a picture of his face now to prove he's dead...and it doesn't look like he's too mangled.

Thanks, I hope you didn't have people running for their lives.